Checking out this LC 100

[cuiserboy]

I went a bit off topic in the 80 forum as I've been looking for advice on this LC100

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1999-Toy...el-Automatic-Excellent-Condition/112767895442


Original thread here:

https://www.landcruiserclub.net/com...e-appropriate-place-to-ask-this.149486/page-2

I'm trying to keep a level head about it all but do happen to be in that location this weekend and having spoken to to the chap and seeing more pics he's provided it does look reasonably solid and he comes across as a bit of an enthusiast. Interior needs a good scrub but mechanicals look well looked after and am told no rust - though MOT check has following advisories:

Advisory notice item(s)

• Nearside Front wheel bearing has slight play (2.5.A.3c)
• Offside Front wheel bearing has slight play (2.5.A.3c)
• Front Brake pad(s) wearing thin (3.5.1g)
• Nearside Front Brake pipe slightly corroded (3.6.B.2c)
• Offside Front Brake pipe slightly corroded (3.6.B.2c)
• Rear Sub-frame corroded but not seriously weakened Axle (2.4.G.1)

I'm happy to get those sorted without having to pay what seems like twice that for some of similar vintage I've checked out recently.

Does it look lemon-like to any seasoned LC100 gurus? Anyone around Brecon this weekend who fancies kicking some tyres in exchange for a nice country pub Stella? . Let me know.

Paul

 

[uHu]

There is no such thing as a no-rust 1999 J100. The rear hatch/tailgate looks like it's been fixed up. Water in both fox lights? (which is normal btw - just remove them if required for mot).
The advisories are easy-peasy. The front bearings last as long as the rest of the car, if maintained. These possibly just need an adjustement, and probably a repack. Normal PM (and that means that the "enthusiast" is not enthusiastic about normal servicing). The front brake pipes might be those spiral ones which you can see when you open the bonnet. Normal for them to rust (if not treated), but that means that there is rust elsewhere as well. Check behind all 5 wheels, above mudflaps, inside rear bumper, tailgate, under carpets, etc. If it is not too bad, the acceleration can be reduced by treating with lanolin oil. "Rear sub frame", what's that?
On a 1999 HDJ100 auto, there are three things that normally will have failed, and possibly corrected already:
1 - the converter will have failed, somewhere before 100 k
2 - the rear diff.lock actuator rusts to pieces before most other parts (if fitted)
3 - the front diff is weak, and was replaced with a better construction in 2001?. (2 pinion vs 4 pinion)
The front diff might still be ok if used only on road.

 

[t1pper]

Sorry not in the area.
Looks a fresh car for its age, as for any vehicle take your time to check it over, rust is probably going to be the biggest terminal problem so have a real good sniff about underneath, by raising the suspension it will allow you enough room to roll under the car.

Major mechanical items should be fairly bulletproof but take some time with all the electrical bits and pieces, there are quite a few so make sure ALL switches operate the appropriate functions if you're not sure about any switch ask the owner to show you.
The electrical steering column, electric ariel and rear diff lock are some of the most common (and costly) fails.
Lastly have a good look at any history documentation and a HPI check is vital before parting with any hard earned.

 

[cuiserboy]

Thanks guys, lots of good info to digest. He's replaced the rear diff lock (and replaced aerial) so hopefully they'll be ok. I've checked a few 100's and that aerial does seem to more often be bust than not . I'll certainly get a good luck underneath. Says he's got all bills for work he's done plus service history, and HPI does check out fine. Will proceed with caution as I would with any 19 year old vehicle.