Euan McGilp
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Mar 12, 2011
- Messages
- 210
Clutch finally started slipping a around 176K. Had it replaced last week as I'm waiting for back surgery & some VERY learned members suggested getting someone else to sort this due to weight of components etc.
Correct clutch for vehicle (one of the very last - March 2001 - 3.0TD motors before going D4D), new spigot bearing as well as thrust bearing.
Having made the mistake of buying a complete kit ready to do myself & then handing labour to someone else, I now find myself with a clutch which doesn't seem to release fully. Supplier of clutch kit has cross checked every part# for components & all match several kits on shelves. Installer is happy to swap out & replace - at the cost of another complete kit + labour (they obviously need to be paid for the work); as they said, if they'd supplied the kit, they'd have pulled it again for free to sort problem...
Symptoms:
I cannot start truck & shift into either 1st or reverse.
I can put truck into 1st or reverse & it will start perfectly without drag.
Upshifts or downshifts are possible, but with resistance ('hard' shifts).
Bite point is about 1/2 pedal travel.
Result:
Spent lots of money & have truck I can't use (don't want to pull it out on drive & randomly spend more money on replacing bits 'just in case'.
Questions:
Is it likely to be Slave Cylinder or Master Cylinder issue?
If so, which is most likely?
Before I do it myself, any suggestions from those who know (much) more than me?
VERY confused, advice welcomed, thanks...
Correct clutch for vehicle (one of the very last - March 2001 - 3.0TD motors before going D4D), new spigot bearing as well as thrust bearing.
Having made the mistake of buying a complete kit ready to do myself & then handing labour to someone else, I now find myself with a clutch which doesn't seem to release fully. Supplier of clutch kit has cross checked every part# for components & all match several kits on shelves. Installer is happy to swap out & replace - at the cost of another complete kit + labour (they obviously need to be paid for the work); as they said, if they'd supplied the kit, they'd have pulled it again for free to sort problem...
Symptoms:
I cannot start truck & shift into either 1st or reverse.
I can put truck into 1st or reverse & it will start perfectly without drag.
Upshifts or downshifts are possible, but with resistance ('hard' shifts).
Bite point is about 1/2 pedal travel.
Result:
Spent lots of money & have truck I can't use (don't want to pull it out on drive & randomly spend more money on replacing bits 'just in case'.
Questions:
Is it likely to be Slave Cylinder or Master Cylinder issue?
If so, which is most likely?
Before I do it myself, any suggestions from those who know (much) more than me?
VERY confused, advice welcomed, thanks...