clutch time!

[lockie]

soooo.... unfortunately, this afternoon on my way home, my clutch started to slip in 4th gear. (as soon as I get to 2000rmp's she lets go)

my question/s are, what time of clutch have you used?
was there anything not included in the standard clutch kits that I should be ordering as well?
and who has got an exedy heavy duty?? as that is what I'm looking at getting...

thanks
lockie

 

[Chris]

Are you going to do this yourself or have a garage do it. There are some handy tips but if you are not attempting it, or have done one before then all I can say is go with something branded that you recognise like Exedy, Aisin or Valeo. You only need the pressure plate, release bearing and friction plate.

 

[clivehorridge]

As above from Chris, but in my case I thought it wise to replace the pilot bearing in the flywheel as well, it's the bearing that carries the flywheel end of the splined first motion shaft, that goes through the clutch plate into the gearbox. (I might not be using the right terms for things here, but you probably know what I'm talking about). For the small amount they cost, it saves dismantling the whole thing later when the 20 odd year old bearing does (or may) fail.

I went for a "Heavy Duty" kit that came in a Borg-Warner box, well at least that was the box that my service garage put the old parts in, to show that they had done it.

The difference in the "feel" of the new clutch was alarming, in a nice way. Smooth to operate, quieter running with the clutch disengaged, smooth on take-up, and a very positive, firm grip under let's say more extreme use.

It's been in one year now, about 12k km, and I'm very pleased with it.

 

[Ben Stratford]

Replaced my spigot bearing st the same time as the clutch as per What Cilve said

 

[clivehorridge]

Replaced my spigot bearing st the same time as the clutch as per What Cilve said

Spigot bearing, that's the word...

 

[Rambodian]

Replace everything in there, get the flywheel machined. Get a new release/throw out bearing, the pilot bearing which sits at the end of the transmission shaft should also be changed.
And buy a NPC heavy duty clutch, they're awesome lol
Also clean everything up in whilst your in there.

 

[Chris]

I'd say that machining the flywheel was a bit excessive unless it's in a poor state. If there has been contact with the rivets and it scored, perhaps, but unless you've any reason to doubt it's in good condition, I'd personally leave it alone.

Sorry chaps schoolboy error - of course do the spigot bearing too. I did.

 

[Dave2000]

I went for the Aisin, no problems, I did the slave cylinder as well for the small cost a no brainer IMO.

REMOVE THE STUD BY THE STARTER MOTOR, before refitting the box.

Regards

Dave

 

[clivehorridge]

I went for the Aisin, no problems, I did the slave cylinder as well for the small cost a no brainer IMO.

REMOVE THE STUD BY THE STARTER MOTOR, before refitting the box.

Regards

Dave

I replaced master & slave, but admit to that being over the top.

 

[Iwan]

I'm in the same situation with my 1hdft and manual box (highish/mid miler 265000 miles) that's going in the conversion for my 91 hdj81 (auto). I've have it all on the ground I have taken the box off and the clutch is way too worn to fit back in. I really dont want to go in there again!

As its's a complete pita to undertake and quite a heavy going job. You can't mess about with after market or mix and match or 2nd hand kind of affair of parts. Spigot bearing is a must for sure and planning to check/replace the rear crank seal.... am I not prepared to go in there again!

I am looking at this kit from Roughtrax made by Aisin.

http://www.roughtrax4x4.com/aisin-h...3-piece-clutch-kit-diesel-300mm-24-valve.html

I plan to tweek the pump, intercool and egr removal, has anyone used this kit?

 

[clivehorridge]

I'm in the same situation with my 1hdft and manual box (highish/mid miler 265000 miles) that's going in the conversion for my 91 hdj81 (auto). I've have it all on the ground I have taken the box off and the clutch is way too worn to fit back in. I really dont want to go in there again!

As its's a complete pita to undertake and quite a heavy going job. You can't mess about with after market or mix and match or 2nd hand kind of affair of parts. Spigot bearing is a must for sure and planning to check/replace the rear crank seal.... am I not prepared to go in there again!

I am looking at this kit from Roughtrax made by Aisin.

http://www.roughtrax4x4.com/aisin-h...3-piece-clutch-kit-diesel-300mm-24-valve.html

I plan to tweek the pump, intercool and egr removal, has anyone used this kit?

Aha, you've reminded me I had the crank oil seal replaced as well. I'm hoping it will outlive me, that's why I went OTT.

The flywheel was fine so no skimming/facing necessary.

 

[Chris]

Never done the rear crank seal. Not actually read it in the FSM either. With the clutch and flywheel out, is it a big job? Y'know, 1-5 sort of thing 1 being easy and 5 being an engine rebuild. It's not something we've covered in detail on the common fixes sections.

 

[Julian T]

The last clutch I put in my truck was one of these, from the same people the link is for.

Linky Here

I have been impressed with it as my previous clutch would slip far too easily, have not got this one to slip yet.
only negative comment I have is that the release bearing rattles a little.

 

[lockie]

thanks everyone for the tips and replies!
I replaced my slave cylinder only a week or two ago, so I'll leave that one be.
but I am going to do my uni joints while I'm there.
but I do have one final question, can the rear main seal be done whilst the clutch is out??

 

[Julian T]

Yes, just need to remove the flywheel while the box is out, however depending on mileage it may serve to leave it alone, unless of course it's leaking
Also not sure but you may need to replace the flywheel bolts if they are one time use, don't know if that is the case or not.

 

[Towpack]

The rear oil seal is held in by a retainer fastened with 6 bolts. Just remove the flywheel, rear end plate and break the seal between the sump and the retainer so not that much extra work really if you've just removed the box and clutch. Nothing in the FSM about replacing flywheel bolts, just retighten gradually in the set order to 94lb/ft.

 

[chapel gate]

I recently got a clutch kit including thrust bearing and spigot bearing from my toyota main dealer, price wasnt too bad.

@iwan_t24 surely something from a 70s series will do the job for half the price?

 

[Chris]

My clutch release bearing used to jingle. I had a new clutch in and it still jingled. I got a replacement OEM unit and when I dragged the damn box out again to replace the one that came with the clutch it turned out be be exactly the same. And I do mean exactly. I swapped it anyway and it still jingled. In the end I changed the slave cylinder and took the opportunity to do a little adjusting. With the merest of additional pressure on the clutch fork, the jingling stopped. I was so happy I nearly cried.

 

[Iwan]

I recently got a clutch kit including thrust bearing and spigot bearing from my toyota main dealer, price wasnt too bad.

@iwan_t24 surely something from a 70s series will do the job for half the price?

Haha I was waiting for that one!

Ref the rear main seal, if not leaking then leave be. No harm in checking whilst it's all apart!

 

[lockie]

just in case anyone was wondering, I ended up going with an exedy safari tuff clutch.
price was $660 (australian) including delivery. pretty happy considering the price from a couple of different local shops was around the $900+ mark
fingers crossed that they hold true to their over the phone "guarantee" of getting it here before the weekend!!

And lucky me, I've got a hoist and gearbox jack that isn't being used at a friend's place so with a little luck (and possibly a beer or two) I should have it in by Saturday arvo