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Coolant needed for water pump change?

knicko

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I’m planning to do a cam belt change on my 100 series and should probably replace the water pump while I’m at it. The manual states coolant capacity (with power heater and rear cabin heater) is just over 13L.
However, I assume the cooling system will not fully drain by removing the w/pump. I’ll be buying parts from Roughtrax as usual, but see their Toyota red premix coolant is sold in 5L tubs.
Anyone know how much coolant I’ll actually need to top it back up?
I don’t want to dilute it but also don’t want to buy three tubs of 5L if it’s not necessary.
Thanks,
Nick
 

SteveJB

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You could do a full coolant change as you are taking the time and money to get everything else sorted seems the more sensible option for you for the sake of a few more quids
 

knicko

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You could do a full coolant change as you are taking the time and money to get everything else sorted seems the more sensible option for you for the sake of a few more quids

You know what Steve? I thought the very same today when I was thinking more clearly!
I’ll order 15L (three tubs) and do a proper flush.
Good advice, thanks
 

Shayne

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Yay i refrained from saying we could save on oil changes by only buying 5L and topping up with the old oil :crazy:
 

Lancashire Cruiser

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On my collie I’m going to do a full coolant overhaul, got a new radiator, water pump, viscous fan, thermostat and 15 L of pink coolant. Hopefully that will stave off any cooling problems for quite a few years.
 
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knicko

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Well I've answered my question. Just done all the belts and took opportunity to change the water pump and thermostat, so dumped whatever coolant came out. It took 9L to top it back up.

Having said that, I did an EGR delete and thorough clean of the dismantled intake system at the same time, so lost a bit of extra coolant from pulling off the power heater from the pipework to gain some working space. Also lost whatever coolant was in the EGR pipework, which was blanked off and not replaced.

Having seen the inside of the intake system and cleaned a metric tonne of thick sludge from it (possibly the worst job in the world), I will never understand who thought that design was a good trade off for reducing emissions. Yuk!

As an aside, the idler pulley on the ridged utility belt (the one that sits below the power heater pulley) really is idle... it doesn't actually touch the belt (although it is virtually touching and spins slowly in sympathy). I didn't take a picture of the old pulley before dismantling. Is this right?

I'd like to say I have enjoyed a test drive of the newly serviced (and EGR free) truck, but while I was doing the final bit of 'faffing' under the bonnet, I thought I would wire brush off some corrosion on the brake pipes. Two seconds later and there's a hole where that corrosion used to be! Hadn't banked on the next maintenance coming round so quick... why do these things always seem to happen late on a Saturday afternoon?

Onwards and upwards.
 

knicko

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Re the idler pulley question above - have found the answer on a search here:

 

Philip amos

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Re the idler pulley question above - have found the answer on a search here:

Yay i refrained from saying we could save on oil changes by only buying 5L and topping up with the old oil :crazy:
I’ve always used Halfords red in my 2003 4.7 isn’t it ok?
 
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