Crikey - diagnose this!

grahamnaismith

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Out of my depth again!

2001 Amazon 4.2L TDA 100 series (HDJ100) on 140k (rebuilt engine) and all been fine in terms of running. 4k miles to Morocco and back in March was fine. Ok so the big end went in Thailand but that was 2.5 years ago and I've moved on. Not been doing too much driving in it lately but set off this morning from Cambridge way early this morning (slightly damp, not cold) having driven up there on Friday. Driving for about 30 mins at about 70 mph with no probs and then sudden loss of power. Revs dropped really low and wouldnt respond to the accelerator, car didn't stall so pulled over and it was still running. Would not accelerate above about 2000 rpm sitting in neutral. Checked under the bonnet and couldn't see a throttle cable I could manually pull. No apparent fuel leak or anything of that nature. Sat there for about 5 minutes - engine still running and it wouldn't accelerate passed about 2,000 rpm. Turned engine off and then on and it was completely fine. Then drove 100 miles home at 70-80 mph with no probs.

Have a steinbauer p-box that Julian fitted last year. Injectors also fitted by Julian and despite some initial teething problems all fine. Just a temp fuel blockage maybe? I had filled up just before I arrived there on the Friday (Shell). Cat converter? All the gauges looked fine - oil pressure, temp etc. Dirty fuel from Morocco etc considered but I've gone through 2 complete tanks since then. Did get a little bit low on Friday (orange light on) but still a good bit from the bottom. Only serviced it myself including new fuel filter about a month ago.

As an aside when it did start up - when I revved it up there was a clicking/typing whirring noise coming from the engine as the car revved down which I hadn't heard before? Red-herring maybe.

Any ideas guys?

Worried of Surrey!
 

Andy Harvey

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Sounds like a temp fuel blockage to me. Same symptoms as I had on my 80 when the vent was blocked in the filler cap but as you had filled up I don't think it was that. I'd wait and see if it does it again. Mine wouldn't pull above about 2K rpm and wouldn't go up even the slightest hill above about 15 mph (which was really annoying for the people behind. if no lights came on don't think it was a major (yet). Has the clicking noise gone. Only other thing I can think is something nasty in the fuel pump which was making the clicking now since it has been moved by switching on and off - or maybe in the fuel filter. Might be worth dropping out the fuel filter. Other than that maybe another injector problem. Sounds very much like fuel system anyway somewhere but start at the filter and work through.
 

Gilmour Dickson

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I don't know what a p-box is, but I am assuming that it is some sort of power booster. A car I used to own displayed similar symptoms and it turned out to be a faulty power boost type box. When I unplugged it everything went back to normal. Worth a shot maybe?
Gil
 
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grahamnaismith

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silvercruiser said:
Has it got a fly by wire accelerator?


Joe

That the same as drive by wire or the opposite? Either way I'm sure it is a cable but I just can't see it!
 

grahamnaismith

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Andy Harvey said:
Sounds like a temp fuel blockage to me. Same symptoms as I had on my 80 when the vent was blocked in the filler cap but as you had filled up I don't think it was that. I'd wait and see if it does it again. Mine wouldn't pull above about 2K rpm and wouldn't go up even the slightest hill above about 15 mph (which was really annoying for the people behind. if no lights came on don't think it was a major (yet). Has the clicking noise gone. Only other thing I can think is something nasty in the fuel pump which was making the clicking now since it has been moved by switching on and off - or maybe in the fuel filter. Might be worth dropping out the fuel filter. Other than that maybe another injector problem. Sounds very much like fuel system anyway somewhere but start at the filter and work through.

Much appreciate that - very re-assuring. Havent driven it since but only noticed the clicking/whirring noise after I started it and it was all fine. Ok will pop out the fuel filter and see if that makes a difference - might have been a spare I picked up in China so will check. Thx again
 

grahamnaismith

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Gilmour Dickson said:
I don't know what a p-box is, but I am assuming that it is some sort of power booster. A car I used to own displayed similar symptoms and it turned out to be a faulty power boost type box. When I unplugged it everything went back to normal. Worth a shot maybe?
Gil
Yep it is although its on naff settings as I bought it for fuel consumption and it did next to bugger all!
 

Jon Wildsmith

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has yours had the spill valve and wiring loom update? I'm a bit hazy on the details but seem to recall there's a common fault with the spill valve connector that can cause problems and the OEM fix is a new spill valve and a new bit of wiring loom?
 

grahamnaismith

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Jon Wildsmith said:
has yours had the spill valve and wiring loom update? I'm a bit hazy on the details but seem to recall there's a common fault with the spill valve connector that can cause problems and the OEM fix is a new spill valve and a new bit of wiring loom?

Ah - don't know - is it easy to tell? I'm assuming it should happen again if there's a fault so might wait till then!
 

Jon Wildsmith

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grahamnaismith said:
Ah - don't know - is it easy to tell? I'm assuming it should happen again if there's a fault so might wait till then!
I just remember reading about someone having problems with the IP and it turning out that there's a dealer mod for I think pre 03 diesels to replace a connector that had some problems. I was hoping someone else would chime in and fill in the blanks as I mainly pay attention to petrol engine related posts not the diesel.
 

nathanrobo

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I'm sure that this issue was sorted a few months ago... but for anyone else looking through this thread, I encountered a similar issue which turned out to be the connector on the spill valve. Before I realised this I had the IP tested and IP Timing Control Valve replaced. Which didn't solve the problem. Using a good old fashioned multimeter I managed to diagnose a bad connection. The toyo stealer wanted £450 quid to make a modification to the connector. Unfortunately Toyota don't list the modification kit and the dealers will not sell you a new connector.

In the end I fiddled with the connector until it made a good connection. That was last December and it's been ok since.

The truck is an 2001 100 series with the 1HD - FTE engine
 

uHu

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The fix is to cut off the connector to the spill valve and replace with a good connection, either plugs or solder; seal with vulc-tape, and you're ok.
 

nathanrobo

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I must get round to doing this... but I thought that whilst it was working well, i'd buy some time and identify a source the parts for the Toyota modification. Time passes and you forget about it :oops:

I wanted to ensure that whatever I do it looks (and works) professional.
 

Julian Voelcker

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The factory 'kit' consists of a replacement plug and short loom - you plug the short loom into the spill valve, put a ring around it and then fill it with some sort of glue that seals the plug onto the spill valve and thus preventing the connection problems - you then have another connector that is connected to the original loom.

As to Graham's problem, it could have been the spill control valve connection problem although more likely a dodgy fuel issue the SPV symptoms are usually being unable to start the truck or stopping dead.
 

nathanrobo

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Uhu

Not sure if you are still reading this thread, if you are, what is vulc tape?

I've got another issue, which seems fuel or exhaust related and I wanted to rule out this doggy connection before I go any further! Thanks mate
 

Ecoman

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vulcanising tape. Basically a tape that bonds to itself and can make a watertight seal. You can buy it from most motor factors, electrical suppliers and maplins.
 
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