G
Guest
Guest
JB,
Hold on JB. You have to take time to evaluate what is going on with a
problem before you spend money - like checking a stat b4 you buy a new one!
Also don't buy anything if you don't have the technical background to fit
it correctly and safely. Possessing a manual does not mean you are an
expert, it just explains it for you. Dealer mechanics may be an odd breed
but at least they get good training and certification of their competence.
Even if you are not a trained Toy mechanic, you can only work on them if
you at least have an engineering background and experience. Also remember
that even if you find that good back street mechanic, and you know where to
get the parts (Milner or Jap 4X4) if you turn-up and present him with the
parts he will not thank you for 2 reasons.
1 You have denied him a modest margin in buying at trade price from these
suppliers and still selling to you at the 'right price'.
2 As an experienced mechanic He will already know what is required and
will normally order all parts at once, cos he knows what he is doing. He
will not have to ask the obvious question ' I wonder if this CV replacement
job also needs seals as well'. (Any parts replacement involving fluids and
prevention of dust ingress involves seals). Its no fun giving him a part
complete set of parts and finding that your job is delayed cos all parts
were not supplied in the first place.
Anyway, on the supply of CV joints, I certainly can't afford to buy any
more than I need for 'stock'. You know where to get them when you need
them. So just buy what you need at any one time, though replacing the pair
would be best in an ideal world.
As for the heater, again you have to be methodical whatever the car. I
would take it for a run to warm it up. Get home and blank the radiator for
the bottom 2/3rds or 3/4 and gently fast idle it to build-up some more
heat. Check the bottom hose whilst its running - from below to avoid the
fan. You should feel some warmth coming into the bottom hose in a
reasonably short time. As soon as you do, remove the cardboard. Checking is
best done stationary as you can quickly remove the blank and not overcook
it, if you do it all on the road you stand the chance of a rapid overheat
over which you have no control.
If you establish that its working well as far as the engine is concerned
then look at the heater system. Remember that heater feeds are usually from
the top - hottest - part of the engine, so too the top radiator hose. Next
I would turn on the rear heater fan in my 80. This little heater can be
very fierce - and as far as my model is concerned is connected direct to
the heater outlet from the engine. Therefore there is no restriction in the
pipework. If its hot then you have narrowed it down to the controls of the
dashboard heater itself. From then on you will have to trace the route and
check the controls. I am not sure about yours but there may be a
thermostatic flow control and that is the first suspect place. Others on
the list with the same model as you will have to takeover for the rest of
the check.
But if you have never flushed the cooling system then I would suggest that
it would be best to do as a routine anyway using a proprietary agent for
doing so. It may also show-up some leaks at some hose joints, but you just
have to accept that. Its easier to fix when you know about it rather than
when on the road away from home.
As for protecting wolves, sorry but I live in a very different world. When
wars come along the wildlife takes over 'their' property again. This also
includes our 4 varieties of venomous snake which inhabit the ruins of
houses we try to rebuild, then they get under the floors of the new houses
in the winter. Wolves are vermin which attack the villager's livestock,
which in most cases is their only form of subsistence. We have a surplus of
wolves which make life very dangerous in the Balkans. If your car breaks
down at night and you are near a forest, its best not to walk and search
for a village to get help, you stop a passing car - if there is one. Anway,
we also have wild boar and bears too, but maybe another time. (I forgot the
large puma like beasts - I saw one 3 weeks ago).
Cheers
Jon
'92 HZJ80 ex UN surplus in Bosnia - where today we are celebrating our
'national day' and the world has stopped outside.
Hold on JB. You have to take time to evaluate what is going on with a
problem before you spend money - like checking a stat b4 you buy a new one!
Also don't buy anything if you don't have the technical background to fit
it correctly and safely. Possessing a manual does not mean you are an
expert, it just explains it for you. Dealer mechanics may be an odd breed
but at least they get good training and certification of their competence.
Even if you are not a trained Toy mechanic, you can only work on them if
you at least have an engineering background and experience. Also remember
that even if you find that good back street mechanic, and you know where to
get the parts (Milner or Jap 4X4) if you turn-up and present him with the
parts he will not thank you for 2 reasons.
1 You have denied him a modest margin in buying at trade price from these
suppliers and still selling to you at the 'right price'.
2 As an experienced mechanic He will already know what is required and
will normally order all parts at once, cos he knows what he is doing. He
will not have to ask the obvious question ' I wonder if this CV replacement
job also needs seals as well'. (Any parts replacement involving fluids and
prevention of dust ingress involves seals). Its no fun giving him a part
complete set of parts and finding that your job is delayed cos all parts
were not supplied in the first place.
Anyway, on the supply of CV joints, I certainly can't afford to buy any
more than I need for 'stock'. You know where to get them when you need
them. So just buy what you need at any one time, though replacing the pair
would be best in an ideal world.
As for the heater, again you have to be methodical whatever the car. I
would take it for a run to warm it up. Get home and blank the radiator for
the bottom 2/3rds or 3/4 and gently fast idle it to build-up some more
heat. Check the bottom hose whilst its running - from below to avoid the
fan. You should feel some warmth coming into the bottom hose in a
reasonably short time. As soon as you do, remove the cardboard. Checking is
best done stationary as you can quickly remove the blank and not overcook
it, if you do it all on the road you stand the chance of a rapid overheat
over which you have no control.
If you establish that its working well as far as the engine is concerned
then look at the heater system. Remember that heater feeds are usually from
the top - hottest - part of the engine, so too the top radiator hose. Next
I would turn on the rear heater fan in my 80. This little heater can be
very fierce - and as far as my model is concerned is connected direct to
the heater outlet from the engine. Therefore there is no restriction in the
pipework. If its hot then you have narrowed it down to the controls of the
dashboard heater itself. From then on you will have to trace the route and
check the controls. I am not sure about yours but there may be a
thermostatic flow control and that is the first suspect place. Others on
the list with the same model as you will have to takeover for the rest of
the check.
But if you have never flushed the cooling system then I would suggest that
it would be best to do as a routine anyway using a proprietary agent for
doing so. It may also show-up some leaks at some hose joints, but you just
have to accept that. Its easier to fix when you know about it rather than
when on the road away from home.
As for protecting wolves, sorry but I live in a very different world. When
wars come along the wildlife takes over 'their' property again. This also
includes our 4 varieties of venomous snake which inhabit the ruins of
houses we try to rebuild, then they get under the floors of the new houses
in the winter. Wolves are vermin which attack the villager's livestock,
which in most cases is their only form of subsistence. We have a surplus of
wolves which make life very dangerous in the Balkans. If your car breaks
down at night and you are near a forest, its best not to walk and search
for a village to get help, you stop a passing car - if there is one. Anway,
we also have wild boar and bears too, but maybe another time. (I forgot the
large puma like beasts - I saw one 3 weeks ago).
Cheers
Jon
'92 HZJ80 ex UN surplus in Bosnia - where today we are celebrating our
'national day' and the world has stopped outside.
