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DIN socket

John,
Where did you get the 15 amps figure from? the battery will
provide as much power as you need to drive any appliance. You do not
get more power from a socket, you only get a socket that will handle
the power of the appliance.
This is the same as a 1/2" garden hose that gives you a certain
amount of water through a 1/2" tap. If you replace the tap and pipe to
it with 1" and use a 1" hose you will gfet more water but the main
pipe (battery) in the road outside is still the same.
The difference here is that the hose will just deliver less
water, it will not burn out. An electrical cable will burn out as the
appliance is trying to draw more current than the cable can take. A
bit like sucking on the water pipe, if you could do it with enough
suction then the pipe would collapse.
Regards, Clive.
On 11/14/05, John Byrne <[Email address removed]> wrote:
d
 
Hi Clive
I got the 15 amp figure from the link Julian sent but as usual I got it
wrong , it should be 16 amps. So if thats the case then the splitters I got
must have been under powered YES.
John C
92HDJ 80 1HDT ireland
 
Hi clive
Just a thought if I get a good splitter. one with a good amp flow if that
is possible would that do to power all my toys.
John C
92HDJ 80 1HDT ireland
 
Yes, you need one with thick enough cable and a capacity of about 12
amps, or 140/150 watts.
Regards, Clive.
On 11/14/05, John Byrne <[Email address removed]> wrote:
t
 
John,
As a guide your cable should have a copper core made up of many
wires and be about 1.5mm diameter, the copper that is, not the
plastic.
You also, maybe even first, need to find out which fuse protects
the lighter socket and what it's rating is. You may need heavier cable
to match the rest of the circuit. Let me know.
Regards, Clive.
On 11/14/05, Clive Marks <[Email address removed]> wrote:
hat
 
I have dozens of DIN sockets, how many do you want, ?6 each + vat. Regards
Eddie, Frogs Island 4x4
-----Original Message-----
From: [Email address removed]
[mailto:[Email address removed]]On Behalf Of John Byrne
Sent: 14 November 2005 16:57
To: [Email address removed]
Subject: [ELCO] DIN socket
Hi Guys
Had a look around the local car shops and asked about the DIN sockets got
looks like what is that O yea Ok lets see. No dont have one , only
ambulances and fire services use those kind of things. Is the DIN socket one
socket like thye cig lighter or can you get multipy ones, like what im
after.
John C
92HDj 80 1HDT ireland
 
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I know what you want, standard good quality power sockets with a flappy lid
used in expedition vehicles, DIN is generally the term used to differentiate
it from a Cigar socket. Ed
-----Original Message-----
From: [Email address removed]
[mailto:[Email address removed]]On Behalf Of Clive Marks
Sent: 14 November 2005 17:03
To: [Email address removed]
Subject: Re: [ELCO] DIN socket
John,
DIN stands for 'deutsch industrie norm', which is a German
engineering standard. There are DIN plugs for stereo systems, towing
sockets and all kinds of electrical gear. You need to get a picture,
or better description of the plug you need. Just refering to DIN plugs
is only OK if the guy that you're asking has a clue, if you were in a
stereo shop they would know you were talking about the stereo ones.
Regards, Clive.
On 11/14/05, John Byrne <[Email address removed]> wrote:
one
 
A cigar socket is as it suggests, a din socket is smaller in diameter and
provides a much more reliable connection that will carry more current. If
you are melting the socket or the feed to it you will need to check the
current requirement of the thing you are running off it. Ed
-----Original Message-----
From: [Email address removed]
[mailto:[Email address removed]]On Behalf Of John Byrne
Sent: 14 November 2005 17:24
To: [Email address removed]
Subject: Re: [ELCO] DIN socket
Thanks Gareth and Clive.
So a DIN socket for the cruiser is just like the cig lighter socket YES.
My problem was that the splitter for the cig lighter kept melting, so if I
buy the three way DIN socket and connect it directly to the battery it would
be fine YES. Or could I use one of the splitters I have and use stronger
cable and would that do or is that no good.
john C
92HDJ 80 1HDT Ireland
 
I can bring a handful at the weekend if anyone is interested, Ed
-----Original Message-----
From: [Email address removed]
[mailto:[Email address removed]]On Behalf Of Gareth Jones
Sent: 14 November 2005 17:35
To: [Email address removed]
Subject: Re: [ELCO] DIN socket
John, if my memory serves me well I seem to recall on the LCOOL technical
pages they have a site for vehicle upgrades. One of the articles relates to
the fitting of multiple DIN sockets in the load carrying area, a popular mod
for those of us who have fridges.
You will have to calculate the total current load for all your accessories -
add a safety margin - say 25% - determine the correct wiring size, i.e. the
number and size of strands that make up the wire - the site I have given you
shows all this. You may need 2 or 3 connectors.
Good luck - don't fry your brains or your electrics !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Gareth.
 
Ideally to run anciliary equipment with the engine switched off you should
run a split cahrge or battery management system, what sort of fridge are you
running?
Cigar lighter sockets are typically not man enough for all this kit.
ED
-----Original Message-----
From: [Email address removed]
[mailto:[Email address removed]]On Behalf Of John Byrne
Sent: 14 November 2005 17:54
To: [Email address removed]
Subject: Re: [ELCO] DIN socket
Gereth will you stop with the tech stuff my grey matter is turning black
and the smoke coming out of my ears is quite bad. Sure I dont know the first
or second or third thing about auto electrics with the amps, volts, power
from , power needed etc etc. All I know is that the plug keeps melting and
my littler toys wont work altogether. I remember that someone told me I was
trying to take too much power from the cig socket and /or the splitter was
poor quality. A DIN was the way to go and hook it up to the battery and all
will be fine. Its not that easy is it, I should have known, DAME DAME DAME.
John C
92HDJ 80 1HDT Ireland
 
John what fridge is it. Ed
-----Original Message-----
From: [Email address removed]
[mailto:[Email address removed]]On Behalf Of John Byrne
Sent: 14 November 2005 18:04
To: [Email address removed]
Subject: Re: [ELCO] DIN socket
Hi clive
The fridge is 5amps the dvd is 3 amps, the screens are 10 watts each the
dector dont know.
John C
92HDJ 80 1HDt ireland
 
Hey Ed
Send me a link so I can see what you have.
John C
92HDJ 80 1HDT Ireland
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eddie Priscott" <[Email address removed]>
To: <[Email address removed]>
Sent: Tuesday, November 15, 2005 10:45 AM
Subject: RE: [ELCO] DIN socket
 
Hello guys,
I am entirely enjoying this thread and the heroic attempsts at making
everyday physics even simpler to grasp by beginners, but it seems John
is still getting the wrong ideas. I apologize for chipping in, but
maybe this is going to help:
The splitter gets hot because it creates electrical resistance to the
current passing between the batter and the devices powered though it.
Resistance is generated by the conductor(s) in the splitter. It may be
the result of
A)=09the splitter wiring being too thin,
B)=09the points of contact between the metal parts (plug/socket) being
too small, or
C)=09an intermittent air gap between the points of contact (which leads
to sparking), or
D)=09A combination of some or all of the above
Electrical resistance is turned into heat (see electric space
heaters). The purpose of electrical wiring, on the other hand, is to
conduct current with as little resistance as possible. Electrical
fuses are there to ensure that the flow of current is stopped before
it exceeds the safe limit of wire conductance and the wire gets too
hot (leading to insulation meltdown and a fire).
It is also worth observing that some electrical powered fridges draw
heavy current at startup, so each time the fridge thermostat turns it
on, it draws current exceeding several times the rated current. That
may not necessarily blow the circuit fuse yet still create lots of
heat for a short while. If the fridge keeps turning on and off, it may
lead to melting cheap plastic connectors.
Finally, if the OEM fuse in the cig lighter circuit does not blow, it
is because:
A)=09it is above the specified capacity
B)=09the splitter performs below the maximum OEM cig lighter circuit capacity
In John's case:
If condition A) is met, then is advised not to fool around with fuses
or face the consequences
If condition B) is met, then is advised not to wast the money on crap
accessories
Ideally, to power a fridge it's best to run a separate 30 amp rated
wire through a 30A fuse from a leisure (deep cycle) battery. For that
it's recommended to use a split charger/relay to preserve the starter
battery. Splitters are best left for powering only small gadgets.
--
Rgds,
Roman (London, UK)
'92 HDJ80
 
Hi Roman and Ed
Geese I wish I could say im enjoying as much as you are Roman. Tyring to
grasp as you say the basic laws of physics in one go is quite tricky to say
the least. I am not powering this hugh american style fridge and ice maker.
I am just trying to make life on long journeys a little more pleasant with
the kids. Its a small portable fridge or electiic cooler box . enough to
keep a few things like cans of minerals and chocolate cool. Its only anout
12x12x12 in size and thats inches not feet. I bought it in a french super
market a while back and its a light blue.
I really dont ask much in life other than to power a few toys in the cruiser
to keep the cops off my back and keep the kids from killing each other , not
much really.
What I know about auto electrics can be summed up in one sentance.
YOU plug it in, it works.
My head beam is still gone and I had to order a new relay from Toy for that.
So im hoping that when I put that in it wont blow cause its another problem
some where else that will come up again and bite me in the wallet.
I have bought a wiring booster kit on ebay and hope that will help with this
problem.
I dont want to leave it in unless I really have to to the auto guy cause he
loves seeing me and is always very pleasant when presenting me with the big
bill.
But if it is a case of getting him to wire a three way socket with the thick
wire and a fuse to the battery so I can use these gadgets then thats what
will have to be done. I can always eat just every second day and in the
process become slim and trim, o yea but then I am still old and grey.
Come on give me your ideas on the electrical issue.
John C
92HDJ 80 1HDT Ireland
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roman" <[Email address removed]>
To: <[Email address removed]>
Sent: Tuesday, November 15, 2005 11:19 AM
Subject: Re: [ELCO] DIN socket
Hello guys,
I am entirely enjoying this thread and the heroic attempsts at making
everyday physics even simpler to grasp by beginners, but it seems John
is still getting the wrong ideas. I apologize for chipping in, but
maybe this is going to help:
The splitter gets hot because it creates electrical resistance to the
current passing between the batter and the devices powered though it.
Resistance is generated by the conductor(s) in the splitter. It may be
the result of
A) the splitter wiring being too thin,
B) the points of contact between the metal parts (plug/socket) being
too small, or
C) an intermittent air gap between the points of contact (which leads
to sparking), or
D) A combination of some or all of the above
Electrical resistance is turned into heat (see electric space
heaters). The purpose of electrical wiring, on the other hand, is to
conduct current with as little resistance as possible. Electrical
fuses are there to ensure that the flow of current is stopped before
it exceeds the safe limit of wire conductance and the wire gets too
hot (leading to insulation meltdown and a fire).
It is also worth observing that some electrical powered fridges draw
heavy current at startup, so each time the fridge thermostat turns it
on, it draws current exceeding several times the rated current. That
may not necessarily blow the circuit fuse yet still create lots of
heat for a short while. If the fridge keeps turning on and off, it may
lead to melting cheap plastic connectors.
Finally, if the OEM fuse in the cig lighter circuit does not blow, it
is because:
A) it is above the specified capacity
B) the splitter performs below the maximum OEM cig lighter circuit capacity
In John's case:
If condition A) is met, then is advised not to fool around with fuses
or face the consequences
If condition B) is met, then is advised not to wast the money on crap
accessories
Ideally, to power a fridge it's best to run a separate 30 amp rated
wire through a 30A fuse from a leisure (deep cycle) battery. For that
it's recommended to use a split charger/relay to preserve the starter
battery. Splitters are best left for powering only small gadgets.
--
Rgds,
Roman (London, UK)
'92 HDJ80

--
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.362 / Virus Database: 267.13.0/168 - Release Date: 14/11/2005
 
John
<snip>
| My head beam is still gone and I had to order a new relay from Toy for
that.
| So im hoping that when I put that in it wont blow cause its another
problem
| some where else that will come up again and bite me in the wallet.
| I have bought a wiring booster kit on ebay and hope that will help
with this problem.
| I dont want to leave it in unless I really have to to the auto guy
cause he loves
| seeing me and is always very pleasant when presenting me with the big
bill.
</snip>
If that's the wiring booster kit I pointed out to you on Ebay PLEASE
make sure that the main current supply to it has some new relief wiring
from the batteries, or from the power outlet socket in the engine
compartment.
Brighter lights will increase the current consumption and you will be
back to square one, or worse, if you continue to run them directly
through the headlight relay.
And check the capacity of the booster unit too: if it's the same one
that I saw it has a max current rating of 130 watts or so, so two of
your 85 watt upgraded headlight bulbs will be too much for it.
It's the same problem as with your fridge etc, and Roman has spelled it
out perfectly: heavy current items in car electrics need thick wires
with good connections. It should be both easy and cheap for your
pleasant auto guy to sort out both a feed for the lights and for your
fridge, since they are both really the same problem.
Christopher Bell
Devon, UK
1996 1HD-FT
____________________________________________________________
Electronic mail messages entering and leaving Arup business
systems are scanned for acceptability of content and viruses
 
I am running IPF 100/80 headlamp bulbs with no problems and no other mods on
my 80 series. Ed
-----Original Message-----
From: [Email address removed]
[mailto:[Email address removed]]On Behalf Of Christopher Bell
Sent: 15 November 2005 12:50
To: [Email address removed]
Subject: RE: [ELCO] DIN socket
John
<snip>
| My head beam is still gone and I had to order a new relay from Toy for
that.
| So im hoping that when I put that in it wont blow cause its another
problem
| some where else that will come up again and bite me in the wallet.
| I have bought a wiring booster kit on ebay and hope that will help
with this problem.
| I dont want to leave it in unless I really have to to the auto guy
cause he loves
| seeing me and is always very pleasant when presenting me with the big
bill.
</snip>
If that's the wiring booster kit I pointed out to you on Ebay PLEASE
make sure that the main current supply to it has some new relief wiring
from the batteries, or from the power outlet socket in the engine
compartment.
Brighter lights will increase the current consumption and you will be
back to square one, or worse, if you continue to run them directly
through the headlight relay.
And check the capacity of the booster unit too: if it's the same one
that I saw it has a max current rating of 130 watts or so, so two of
your 85 watt upgraded headlight bulbs will be too much for it.
It's the same problem as with your fridge etc, and Roman has spelled it
out perfectly: heavy current items in car electrics need thick wires
with good connections. It should be both easy and cheap for your
pleasant auto guy to sort out both a feed for the lights and for your
fridge, since they are both really the same problem.
Christopher Bell
Devon, UK
1996 1HD-FT
____________________________________________________________
Electronic mail messages entering and leaving Arup business
systems are scanned for acceptability of content and viruses
 
We sell Piranha superloom kits with 140 watt bulbs if you are interested. ED
-----Original Message-----
From: [Email address removed]
[mailto:[Email address removed]]On Behalf Of Christopher Bell
Sent: 15 November 2005 12:50
To: [Email address removed]
Subject: RE: [ELCO] DIN socket
John
<snip>
| My head beam is still gone and I had to order a new relay from Toy for
that.
| So im hoping that when I put that in it wont blow cause its another
problem
| some where else that will come up again and bite me in the wallet.
| I have bought a wiring booster kit on ebay and hope that will help
with this problem.
| I dont want to leave it in unless I really have to to the auto guy
cause he loves
| seeing me and is always very pleasant when presenting me with the big
bill.
</snip>
If that's the wiring booster kit I pointed out to you on Ebay PLEASE
make sure that the main current supply to it has some new relief wiring
from the batteries, or from the power outlet socket in the engine
compartment.
Brighter lights will increase the current consumption and you will be
back to square one, or worse, if you continue to run them directly
through the headlight relay.
And check the capacity of the booster unit too: if it's the same one
that I saw it has a max current rating of 130 watts or so, so two of
your 85 watt upgraded headlight bulbs will be too much for it.
It's the same problem as with your fridge etc, and Roman has spelled it
out perfectly: heavy current items in car electrics need thick wires
with good connections. It should be both easy and cheap for your
pleasant auto guy to sort out both a feed for the lights and for your
fridge, since they are both really the same problem.
Christopher Bell
Devon, UK
1996 1HD-FT
____________________________________________________________
Electronic mail messages entering and leaving Arup business
systems are scanned for acceptability of content and viruses
 
John,
Are you sure you have 85 watt hadlamp bulbs? Are they like these here:
http://www.mfgsupply.com/m/c/01-6364H.html
If they are, it may be rather bad news for the wiring and the
headlamps themsleves. If they are only claimed to produce light
intensity similar to an 85 watt bulb, it's bad news to your wallet -
you've been conned! They do not make more light, only produce
different light temperature which makes them appear to be brighter.
--
Rgds,
Roman (London, UK)
'92 HDJ80
 
Eddie,
What's the voltge drop at the bulb terminal at high beam?
Do the bulbs get only a bit hotter than 55/50W H4 bulbs?
--
Rgds,
Roman (London, UK)
'92 HDJ80
On 11/15/05, Eddie Priscott <[Email address removed]> wrote:
on
 
Ed

We sell Piranha superloom kits with 140 watt bulbs if you are interested. ED

I've done my own wiring upgrade, but what are your bulbs? I'm currently running Philips Rallye 100/90w as they no longer sell the 130/100w H4 ones.

Christopher Bell

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