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DIN socket

Hi there Christopher
Yes it is the same booster kit you saw but it does say the bulbs are 80
watts each so 160 in total. Now you have me thinking again geese this cant
be good for me old brain. I was going to save this for later whenn i
actually got the kit and then found out I know nothing about it, but I
supose now is as good a time as any. The booster kit will give me extra
power to the head lights will it not with new relays and wires as it says
you will not need anything else with this kit. Go on tell me im wrong again
I cantake it at this stage just once I have a packet of posies at hand. So
will it give me an extra boost of 160 watts or some thing different
altogether. I think at times it was easier when i had only a push bike to
look after.
John C
92HDJ 80 1HDT Ireland
----- Original Message -----
From: "Christopher Bell" <[Email address removed]>
To: <[Email address removed]>
Sent: Tuesday, November 15, 2005 12:49 PM
Subject: RE: [ELCO] DIN socket
John
<snip>
| My head beam is still gone and I had to order a new relay from Toy for
that.
| So im hoping that when I put that in it wont blow cause its another
problem
| some where else that will come up again and bite me in the wallet.
| I have bought a wiring booster kit on ebay and hope that will help
with this problem.
| I dont want to leave it in unless I really have to to the auto guy
cause he loves
| seeing me and is always very pleasant when presenting me with the big
bill.
</snip>
If that's the wiring booster kit I pointed out to you on Ebay PLEASE
make sure that the main current supply to it has some new relief wiring
from the batteries, or from the power outlet socket in the engine
compartment.
Brighter lights will increase the current consumption and you will be
back to square one, or worse, if you continue to run them directly
through the headlight relay.
And check the capacity of the booster unit too: if it's the same one
that I saw it has a max current rating of 130 watts or so, so two of
your 85 watt upgraded headlight bulbs will be too much for it.
It's the same problem as with your fridge etc, and Roman has spelled it
out perfectly: heavy current items in car electrics need thick wires
with good connections. It should be both easy and cheap for your
pleasant auto guy to sort out both a feed for the lights and for your
fridge, since they are both really the same problem.
Christopher Bell
Devon, UK
1996 1HD-FT
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I have Piranha 160/100 and IPF 110/80 H4 type bulbs. Ed
-----Original Message-----
From: Christopher Bell [mailto:[Email address removed]]On Behalf Of
Christopher Bell
Sent: 15 November 2005 14:11
To: [Email address removed]
Subject: RE: [ELCO] DIN socket
Ed
We sell Piranha superloom kits with 140 watt bulbs if you are interested. ED
I've done my own wiring upgrade, but what are your bulbs? I'm currently
running Philips Rallye 100/90w as they no longer sell the 130/100w H4 ones.
Christopher Bell
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Hi Roman
Yes thats them, Just like I said I checked to be sure 85 watts and 100 head
beam.
John C
92HDJ 80 1HDT Ireland
 
Roman, I have no idea of the voltage drop or the temperature, I fitted them
nearly a year ago, they are actually 110/80 watt bulbs with no problems. If
in doubt fit a superloom kit which will prevent the switch and wiring from
melting, you can then go up to the Piranha 160/100 watt bulbs. Ed
-----Original Message-----
From: [Email address removed]
[mailto:[Email address removed]]On Behalf Of Roman
Sent: 15 November 2005 13:25
To: [Email address removed]
Subject: Re: [ELCO] DIN socket
Eddie,
What's the voltge drop at the bulb terminal at high beam?
Do the bulbs get only a bit hotter than 55/50W H4 bulbs?
--
Rgds,
Roman (London, UK)
'92 HDJ80
On 11/15/05, Eddie Priscott <[Email address removed]> wrote:
on
 
Hey Ed
Is this what I need aswell, whats the cost.
John C
92HDJ 80 1HDT Ireland
 
Hi John,
It sounds like you have ordered a similar thing already for the lights.
Upgrading the headlight wiring on an 80 is a pretty standard upgrade
due to the inneficient wiring provided by Toyota.
The cheapest option is to follow the instructions here -
http://tinyurl.com/appuv - either do it yourself as Chris has done or
get your local techie chap to do it.
--
Regards,
Julian Voelcker
Mobile: 07971 540362
Cirencester, United Kingdom
1994 HDJ80, 2.5" OME Lift
 
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Hi John,
It sounds like you have ordered a similar thing already for the lights.
Upgrading the headlight wiring on an 80 is a pretty standard upgrade
due to the inneficient wiring provided by Toyota.
The cheapest option is to follow the instructions here -
http://tinyurl.com/appuv - either do it yourself as Chris has done or
get your local techie chap to do it.
--
Regards,
Julian Voelcker
Mobile: 07971 540362
Cirencester, United Kingdom
1994 HDJ80, 2.5" OME Lift
 
John
If it was this http://tinyurl.com/9trj5 then looking at the large size
picture shows clearly that it says 130 watts max. But yours may be
different.
What it does is to convert around 13v DC to probably around 15v DC,
making the lights a lot brighter. However the amount of current drawn is
going to be slightly greater than before - you don't get something for
nothing. So your existing problem of burning out your headlight relay
will not go away unless you do something different.
The "something different" is to separate the main current supply to run
the headlights (heavy) from the switching of them via relays (light),
which is what these relief wiring looms do. I *hope* that this booster
you've bought will do this, but I can't tell you just by looking at the
picture, however if it doesn't it sounds as if Ed can sell you a heavy
duty wiring loom that will do the trick.
I'm not sure that I've answered your question though! When you get the
kit scan in the instructions to let us have a look and we will be able
to advise you.
Christopher
|
| Hi there Christopher
| Yes it is the same booster kit you saw but it does say the
| bulbs are 80 watts each so 160 in total. Now you have me
| thinking again geese this cant be good for me old brain. I
| was going to save this for later whenn i actually got the kit
| and then found out I know nothing about it, but I supose now
| is as good a time as any. The booster kit will give me extra
| power to the head lights will it not with new relays and
| wires as it says you will not need anything else with this
| kit. Go on tell me im wrong again I cantake it at this stage
| just once I have a packet of posies at hand. So will it give
| me an extra boost of 160 watts or some thing different
| altogether. I think at times it was easier when i had only a
| push bike to look after.
| John C
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Ed

Main beam is not the issue, it's dipped power that I need.

I'd be scared about putting in 160/100 because of the heat generated on main beam - do you know of anything that has a more powerful dipped beam filament without the excessive main? I've found a PIAA 180/135 (CH41835) bulb with a ceramic base ... at a cool (or hot) =A357.42 for one.

Christopher
________________________________
From: [Email address removed] [mailto:[Email address removed]] On Behalf Of Eddie Priscott
Sent: 15 November 2005 14:32
To: [Email address removed]
Subject: RE: [ELCO] DIN socket
=09
=09
I have Piranha 160/100 and IPF 110/80 H4 type bulbs. Ed
-----Original Message-----
From: Christopher Bell [mailto:[Email address removed]]On Behalf Of Christopher Bell
Sent: 15 November 2005 14:11
To: [Email address removed]
Subject: RE: [ELCO] DIN socket
=09
=09
Ed

We sell Piranha superloom kits with 140 watt bulbs if you are interested. ED

I've done my own wiring upgrade, but what are your bulbs? I'm currently running Philips Rallye 100/90w as they no longer sell the 130/100w H4 ones.

Christopher Bell
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Hi Christopher
Now you have me. Two bulbs at what they say is more than the 130watts it
says on the box thing/booster, so whats the deal. I am getting nowwhere with
this am I, just when I think I have it ,it slips away again AH Ah Ah AH Ah
Ah Ah Ah Ah. What about if I get it delivered to you and you can play with
it for hours if you like and then if it needs some thing like Ed says then I
will get that too. I can send you over the money for the forward postage no
problem. For me to look at it will make no difference at all, ill still be
lost
Geese im glad I have friends like you lot, you are my friends are are you
all laughting at me. O dont mind me I have to do this every now and again
its the Irish sence of humour and it less painfull than banging my head off
the computer desk every time I think I have it cracked and am doing well
only to dicover I know shag all.
So maybe I can get this one right, I should not put a new relay in untill I
have this wiring problem sorted. Am I right or am I wrong, tune in for the
next instalment , coming soon to a place near you.
John C Cracking up
05 HDJ 80 1HDT Ireland I wish
John C
92HDJ 80 1HDT Iireland
----- Original Message -----
From: "Christopher Bell" <[Email address removed]>
To: <[Email address removed]>
Sent: Tuesday, November 15, 2005 3:30 PM
Subject: RE: [ELCO] DIN socket
SNIP
If it was this http://tinyurl.com/9trj5 then looking at the large size
picture shows clearly that it says 130 watts max. But yours may be
different.
What it does is to convert around 13v DC to probably around 15v DC,
making the lights a lot brighter. However the amount of current drawn is
going to be slightly greater than before - you don't get something for
nothing. So your existing problem of burning out your headlight relay
will not go away unless you do something different.
The "something different" is to separate the main current supply to run
the headlights (heavy) from the switching of them via relays (light),
which is what these relief wiring looms do. I *hope* that this booster
you've bought will do this, but I can't tell you just by looking at the
picture, however if it doesn't it sounds as if Ed can sell you a heavy
duty wiring loom that will do the trick.
I'm not sure that I've answered your question though! When you get the
kit scan in the instructions to let us have a look and we will be able
to advise you.
Christopher
|
| Hi there Christopher
| Yes it is the same booster kit you saw but it does say the
| bulbs are 80 watts each so 160 in total. Now you have me
| thinking again geese this cant be good for me old brain. I
| was going to save this for later whenn i actually got the kit
| and then found out I know nothing about it, but I supose now
| is as good a time as any. The booster kit will give me extra
| power to the head lights will it not with new relays and
| wires as it says you will not need anything else with this
| kit. Go on tell me im wrong again I cantake it at this stage
| just once I have a packet of posies at hand. So will it give
| me an extra boost of 160 watts or some thing different
| altogether. I think at times it was easier when i had only a
| push bike to look after.
| John C
____________________________________________________________
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systems are scanned for acceptability of content and viruses

--
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.362 / Virus Database: 267.13.0/168 - Release Date: 14/11/2005
 
John
Just to chip in with a meaningless comment....
If it helps John I am also the worlds worst when it comes to vehicle
electrics. I'm OK if I know what I want to do and I then go and start
tracing actual wires but to look at a wiring diagram, or even worse try
and work out what someone is trying to tell me...... no chance. Wiring
diagrams might as well be written in Phaeroic Heiroglyphs for all they
mean to me.
When you have it all sorted John let me know and I'll copy your final
design! :)
I could do with better dipped beam too - main is no problem as I have 2
x 120W PIAA spots linked into main beam but dipped is attrocious.
Pete
 
no I don't. It would be worth a try as the glass should stand the heat at
least until quenched, we have fitted a whole bunch of 140 watt bulbs in
Defender headlights without a problem, we have stopped fitting the IPF light
units as they were expensive the only difference I could see was the weight,
signifying thicker glass and the price!
I have no idea what the limits are, worse case scenario is a cracked light
unit. But what ever bulbs you use over 100 watts ish you will need a loom
kit of some description.
The Australian spec 80s have separate main and dip headlight, don't know
what they would cost but you could mess about with bulbs to your hearts
contect with them.
Ed
-----Original Message-----
From: [Email address removed] [mailto:[Email address removed]]On
Behalf Of Christopher Bell
Sent: 15 November 2005 15:41
To: [Email address removed]
Subject: RE: [ELCO] DIN socket
Ed
Main beam is not the issue, it's dipped power that I need.
I'd be scared about putting in 160/100 because of the heat generated on main
beam - do you know of anything that has a more powerful dipped beam filament
without the excessive main? I've found a PIAA 180/135 (CH41835) bulb with a
ceramic base ... at a cool (or hot) ?57.42 for one.
Christopher
_____
From: [Email address removed] [mailto:[Email address removed]] On
Behalf Of Eddie Priscott
Sent: 15 November 2005 14:32
To: [Email address removed]
Subject: RE: [ELCO] DIN socket
I have Piranha 160/100 and IPF 110/80 H4 type bulbs. Ed
-----Original Message-----
From: Christopher Bell [mailto:[Email address removed]]On Behalf Of
Christopher Bell
Sent: 15 November 2005 14:11
To: [Email address removed]
Subject: RE: [ELCO] DIN socket
Ed
We sell Piranha superloom kits with 140 watt bulbs if you are interested. ED
I've done my own wiring upgrade, but what are your bulbs? I'm currently
running Philips Rallye 100/90w as they no longer sell the 130/100w H4 ones.
Christopher Bell
____________________________________________________________
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Whatever happens the more powerfull the main the worse the dip will seem. Ed
-----Original Message-----
From: [Email address removed]
[mailto:[Email address removed]]On Behalf Of Peter Browning
Sent: 15 November 2005 15:56
To: [Email address removed]
Subject: Re: [ELCO] DIN socket
John
Just to chip in with a meaningless comment....
If it helps John I am also the worlds worst when it comes to vehicle
electrics. I'm OK if I know what I want to do and I then go and start
tracing actual wires but to look at a wiring diagram, or even worse try
and work out what someone is trying to tell me...... no chance. Wiring
diagrams might as well be written in Phaeroic Heiroglyphs for all they
mean to me.
When you have it all sorted John let me know and I'll copy your final
design! :)
I could do with better dipped beam too - main is no problem as I have 2
x 120W PIAA spots linked into main beam but dipped is attrocious.
Pete
 
John
| Now you have me. Two bulbs at what they say is more than the
| 130watts it says on the box thing/booster, so whats the deal.
| I am getting nowwhere with this am I, just when I think I
| have it ,it slips away again AH Ah Ah AH Ah Ah Ah Ah Ah. What
| about if I get it delivered to you and you can play with it
| for hours if you like and then if it needs some thing like Ed
| says then I will get that too. I can send you over the money
| for the forward postage no problem. For me to look at it
| will make no difference at all, ill still be lost Geese im
| glad I have friends like you lot, you are my friends are are
| you all laughting at me. O dont mind me I have to do this
| every now and again its the Irish sence of humour and it less
| painfull than banging my head off the computer desk every
| time I think I have it cracked and am doing well only to
| dicover I know shag all.
Send it to me by all means if you like. Having only read about these
boosters I'd be interested in seeing and using one in the flesh. Having
gone the high wattage bulb route myself, and not being totally
satisfied, it would be fascinating to see how the two approaches
compare.
Contact me privately (mailto:[Email address removed]) if you genuinely
want me to do this, and I'll send you my address.
And yes, I do have a chuckle. But I also admire greatly your openness
about all your traumas, most of us - myself included - prefer to
embarrass ourselves in private! But as someone once said to me "the man
who never made a mistake never made anything!"

| So maybe I can get this one right, I should not put a new
| relay in untill I have this wiring problem sorted. Am I right
| or am I wrong, tune in for the next instalment , coming soon
| to a place near you.
Well, you need headlights so I think you should fit it. If the last one
lasted 15 years this one should be OK for a few weeks.
Christopher Bell
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John,
I am not sure how far you're prepared to go to get a bit of extra
light in front of your cruiser, but I suspect by the time you're
finished you will have spend more money than getting a pair of
additional Lightforce lamps fitted with a simple harness and operated
by an extra switch.
I have two 240mm lamps which I find excessive while driving on country
roads (too much glare from road signs), while the standard 50/55W Hr
bulbs seem to be just right except for very long distance illumination
in straight line. Some people may disagree but the 80's have a pretty
good stock lamps anyway.
You should also remember that the higher the bulb wattage, the shorter
it is going to last. I've had these PIAAs and IPFs which cost quite a
bob but pack up long before a stock bulb that costs a few quid. And a
100W Xenophot HLX 64623 longlife halogen bulb for the Lightofce lamp
is guaranteed for 2000 hrs and cost only four or five quid.
--
Rgds,
Roman (London, UK)
'92 HDJ80
 
Ed

Thanks anyway. My fear isn't damage to the bulb itself, but rather to
the reflector and/or rubber sealing ring round the back. I upgraded my
wiring to the heaviest cable I could solder + 4x 40 amp relays a while
back.

Maybe I should bite the bullet and go HID, but I'm not wholly convinced
that solution would get through an MoT test as the HID H4 bulbs have a
single spark and a mechanical thingy which flips them between high and
low beam. I'd have to see that in the flesh to be convinced.

Incidentally I also tried the PIAA solution "our 60 watt bulbs give
output equivalent to 130 watts" (at vast expense) a while back. Yes,
they are whiter, but the effective light output is no better. So if
anyone out there is tempted by that approach don't bother - it doesn't
work.
Christopher Bell
________________________________
From: [Email address removed]
[mailto:[Email address removed]] On Behalf Of Eddie Priscott
Sent: 15 November 2005 15:59
To: [Email address removed]
Subject: RE: [ELCO] DIN socket
=09
=09
no I don't. It would be worth a try as the glass should stand
the heat at least until quenched, we have fitted a whole bunch of 140
watt bulbs in Defender headlights without a problem, we have stopped
fitting the IPF light units as they were expensive the only difference I
could see was the weight, signifying thicker glass and the price!
I have no idea what the limits are, worse case scenario is a
cracked light unit. But what ever bulbs you use over 100 watts ish you
will need a loom kit of some description.
The Australian spec 80s have separate main and dip headlight,
don't know what they would cost but you could mess about with bulbs to
your hearts contect with them.
Ed
____________________________________________________________
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Hey Peter
Its no good trying to cheer me up, im a blonker, I should have been an auto
electrictronic guy with a PHD in diesel diagnos thicks, followed by a few
years looking into vehicle design, aerodymanics, fuel and oil design, with
a few other things put in in my spare time like specialising in diesel
injection pump systems, fitting, servicing, specialist electronics like sat
nav and pc, and of course engine builting just incase. But no I had to get
in a position where I can drive and now need to learn all the other bits in
my short life span still left to me. Life is so good.
John C
92HDJ 80 1HDT Ireland
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Browning" <[Email address removed]>
To: <[Email address removed]>
Sent: Tuesday, November 15, 2005 3:55 PM
Subject: Re: [ELCO] DIN socket
 
Christopher, I have never heard of these problems, the light glass would be
the only thing to suffer, the cheap Ring lamps you can get for Land Rovers
crack when you drive through a big puddle even with weedy bulbs fitted.
HID are just a bit too expensive.
I have never been convinced of the more for less offer.
Ed
-----Original Message-----
From: [Email address removed] [mailto:[Email address removed]]On
Behalf Of Christopher Bell
Sent: 15 November 2005 16:18
To: [Email address removed]
Subject: RE: [ELCO] DIN socket
Ed
Thanks anyway. My fear isn't damage to the bulb itself, but rather to the
reflector and/or rubber sealing ring round the back. I upgraded my wiring
to the heaviest cable I could solder + 4x 40 amp relays a while back.
Maybe I should bite the bullet and go HID, but I'm not wholly convinced that
solution would get through an MoT test as the HID H4 bulbs have a single
spark and a mechanical thingy which flips them between high and low beam.
I'd have to see that in the flesh to be convinced.
Incidentally I also tried the PIAA solution "our 60 watt bulbs give output
equivalent to 130 watts" (at vast expense) a while back. Yes, they are
whiter, but the effective light output is no better. So if anyone out there
is tempted by that approach don't bother - it doesn't work.
Christopher Bell
_____
From: [Email address removed] [mailto:[Email address removed]] On
Behalf Of Eddie Priscott
Sent: 15 November 2005 15:59
To: [Email address removed]
Subject: RE: [ELCO] DIN socket
no I don't. It would be worth a try as the glass should stand the heat at
least until quenched, we have fitted a whole bunch of 140 watt bulbs in
Defender headlights without a problem, we have stopped fitting the IPF light
units as they were expensive the only difference I could see was the weight,
signifying thicker glass and the price!
I have no idea what the limits are, worse case scenario is a cracked light
unit. But what ever bulbs you use over 100 watts ish you will need a loom
kit of some description.
The Australian spec 80s have separate main and dip headlight, don't know
what they would cost but you could mess about with bulbs to your hearts
contect with them.
Ed
____________________________________________________________
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Hey Ed
Come on tell me the cost of a loom I am sitting down go ahead hit me, opps I
should'nt have said that, im sure there is a lot on the list who would like
to bounce their cruisers off my head some times. Ah well I blame my parents.
John C
92HDJ 80 1HDT Ireland
 
Hey Roman
All I want is good lights when I want them. I cant have what is happening at
the moment which is the lights decide to go out when I need them. It is a
tad bit dangerious and unnerving to say the least. That time in France when
the head beam went out, we were lost, it was dark in the middle of no where
and trying to find our way turn by turn hoping for three hours that the
dipped lights would not go off. And again later on when we again got lost
going to Lios and again hoping and hoping. I can do without that thank you
very much sir. If I get the lights back to normal working than I will
install a few spots as back up connected to the battery directly with as you
say a little switch. Then I should be happy untill the next time.
John C
92HDJ 80 1HDT Ireland
 
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