Dinitrol application

[warrenpfo]

I have just put the order in for Dinitrol for the chassis, under body and some rust inhibitor/converter. I just wondered what tips and tricks people have for me apart from wear old clothes, put down a sheet under the car and put a hat and goggles on.

I have ordered the 1l bottles which then get sprayed on with a compressor and gun. I have not yet ordered the gun as I wanted to ask if Dinitrols gun is good or if I could just use the one I have at home that came with the compressor.

Any other tips or tricks welcome as I don’t want to get it wrong.

 

[Scott]

As I'm sure you've mentioned before, get the underside as clean as possible, removing any wheel arch liners, mudflaps, bumpers etc that can hide areas, or trap dirt, then let the vehicle dry out.

Clean back any surface rust and treat the area with Dinitrol RC900 rust converter/stabiliser, this is great stuff.

Use newspaper and mask anything on the underside of the vehicle that you don't want to cover, exhaust, heat shields, coolers, rad, suspension etc. Then bag the whole car, masking up all the wheel arches, sills and sealing all areas that overspray could possibly get through and onto the vehicles bodywork. Halfords sell the body shop sheets/bag to cover the body, as well as the same stuff on a reel as well, well worth using.

Seal all the holes/access points to the engine bay in the inner wings, masking tape over holes and newspaper on larger areas normally help with this. Also mask the chassis number if your going to be shipping/taking the vehicle out of the country, so that its still visible after the treatment. Once the inner wings are sealed, cover the engine bay with an old blanket and close the bonnet, otherwise when spraying up, overspray can find its way past a bonnet that isn't fully closed.

The 1litre cans in my experience work very well with the Dinitrol supplied spray gun, and give good coverage. After cleaning back any surface rust and treating with RC900, I spray all the body and chassis box sections with cavity wax. Then spray all the outer surfaces (chassis, vehicle underside and axles) with the black underseal. You'll find that you'll need to spray this from many different angles, and over a couple of goes to get a full and good coverage. It's easy to miss areas or faces of contoured panels on the first go, a good light will help you to see the vehicle through the mist.

Let the black underseal dry overnight and then apply the stone chip to all areas that are likely to get blasted by stones, wheel arches, sills, front face of the rear axle and lower rear quarter panels.

Now you can unmask the vehicle and turn your attention to the doors and under bonnet areas. To get the best coverage inside the doors it's best to remove the door card, I tend to do this when I have a reason to go in there, and spray cavity wax around the doors structure, the cavity wax does come in areasol form which can help on this job.

Under the bonnet I use the high temperature wax to coat the inner wings, underside of the bonnet including the box sections and the slam panel. This wax also comes in areasol form, and it's well worth putting a sheet over the windscreen and taping sheeting to the wings to prevent overspray.

Preparation is the most time consuming part of this job, but it makes the world of difference in the end result. I would recommend wearing disposable overalls, a hat, googles and a good breathing mask. Plus be concicous of where any overspray might end up.

Enjoy.

 

[warrenpfo]

Scott

Thanks sounds like you have done this before, fancy making a buck and doing it again??

Its not a job I look forward to but am sure it will be rewarding in the end.

 

[Scott]

Scott

Thanks sounds like you have done this before, fancy making a buck and doing it again??

Your welcome Warren. I've done two of my own vehicles with the Dinitrol products, and I recently did my mates brand spanking HiLux. The benefit to the HiLux being new was that there was virtually no rust, so that helped speed up the prep, but it still took two full days.

Now that my mate has seen the effort and time involved, he agrees with me that it's a tough job to make any money on, as by the time you've bought the product, consumables and sorted an appropriate work space, you then have to charge for your time and you'd end up with a figure around £600-£700, and most people walk away at that point. So I only do my own vehicles.

I've seen the finished result when you pay someone £150 to waxoil your vehicle, they apply it straight on top of any dirt thats under there, and you end up spending the next week cleaning it all off the bodywork. Plus I prefer to use the correct product for the correct application, for example cavity wax, stonechip, high temperature wax etc, although a coating of waxoil is better than nothing.

If you do it yourself there's a good chance that you'll end up with a finished result that your happy with.

Enjoy.

 

[warrenpfo]

Last few questions Scott.

Can I paint on the Dinotrol in some of the hard to reach places? It is White spirits based.....for cleaning purposes and do you think it would be a job best done after I have swapped out the AHS and removed all the unwanted pipes and electronics under the car.

Many thanks

 

[Justin_Elliott]

Watching this post with interest

Any idea how much of each you'll need for an 80?

Must remember to have a crawl under your truck if you're at Lincomb!

 

[warrenpfo]

I have ordered there large kit and then 2 bottles of stone chip.

The large kit comes with 4 bottles of chassis wax, 1 bottle of rust converter and 6 bottles of body spray.

Ill keep you posted but plan on doing little bits at a time, starting with the rear so i can mount my bumper.

 

[Scott]

Can I paint on the Dinotrol in some of the hard to reach places? The dinitrol gun comes with a 4 jet lance which should allow you to get a coating everywhere that you can't get a direct jet too.
Is it White spirits based.....for cleaning purposes. I can't remember off the top of my head, and I don't have any to hand at the moment. I find that panel wipe does a good job of removing any overspray.
Do you think it would be a job best done after I have swapped out the AHS and removed all the unwanted pipes and electronics under the car. Yes.

Any idea how much of each you'll need for an 80? I ordered the motorhome kit, as I wanted to give the 80 a really good coating, and I did end up with a few cans left over, the 1litre can does give good coverage. I would say to order at least 4 cans of the RC900, as on an older vehicle there will be more surface rust to treat. I ordered the 12 can batch of RC900 as its very useful to have on the shelf.

Must remember to have a crawl under your truck if you're at Lincomb! The underseal has been on there for 18months now, so it doesn't look as impressive as it did when I first applied it. Its seen a few byways, a couple of laps around Lincomb, two salty winters and a trip to the Pyrenees, but its holding up well. Its certainly not rusty under there! I did get some remarks shortly after I'd applied it, saying that it looked as good underneath as it did on top!
Re Lincomb, unfortunatley the dates don't work for me, so at the moment I can't make it

I hope that helps.

 

[Scott]

Something to wet the appetite.

 

[Justin_Elliott]

Amazing - That looks immaculate!

Exactly how much prep did you do to the rust before treatment?

Did you take it back to bare metal? or just remove loose/flaking material? If the former I've got some task ahead of me!

 

[Scott]

The chassis was actually in really good condition, and the body was pretty good too, I only had to deal with some surface rust around the body box section joints, or where the original underseal had started to be compromised. For those bits I cleaned them with a wire brush or wire wheel, depending on access. Mostly you end up with clean metal, but I still treat it with RC900 to deal with any residue. The RC900 stabilises and converts the rust, but it also forms a kind of lacquered seal over the treated area, which serves to seal it from air and moisture.

If you have surface rust to deal with I'd consider getting plenty of RC900 and the four jet lance to treat inside the box sections. You should see the RC900 as your primer stage, before you start to apply the underseal. You can also get RC800 which is the same stuff, but in brush on form, so it may go a bit further than the areasol.

Any treatment is better than no treatment. If you plan on keeping a vehicle, it's worth the effort. Have fun!

 

[Julian Voelcker]

I've done a few vehicles with dinitrol products, spending a little less time on the masking (as Scott says it is very time consuming), concentrating more on getting it on there.

I used to clean the underside of the car off with a standard jet wash with some road traffic film remover, which was OK, but you really can't beat using a steam cleaner.

I have seen Dinitrol and Waxoyl peeling off the underside of vehicles where oily deposits haven't been removed properly before application.

If you don't have have a steam cleaner, find someone that has and get them to clean off the underside - if you get dirty again going home a hosepipe should be enough to shift it.

And do make sure you check for holes and do any work that you need to do under the car before spraying - the Dinitrol if filthy stuff and stays sticky for quite a while.

 

[Neil Stone]

Scott, this is inspirational stuff !!!!!


I've just ordered some wire brushes !

that looks amazing, well done fella, very very impressed.


Neil

Something to wet the appetite.

 

[Scott]

Cheers Neil. Good luck with yours, hope it turns out well.

 

[Dan88]

I need to under seal my 90, I hope I can get it to look as good as this!

 

[Shayne]

Can i use paint instead of dinitrol ?