Do these swivels look alright?

[RBG21]

I had my car in at a 4x4(Land Rover) specialist for something else and they said the chrome has worn off them and there’s rust and they’d need replacing! Which on an 80 would mean a whole axle!, from reading up it seems the Toyota design is quite different to solid axle Land Rovers which do need to be chrome and shiny and they’re removable.

Anything to worry about or looks ok?, they don’t feel very pitted if that helps.

 

[Firewout]

Looking no different than others.
Seals are new. Did you do a front axle rebuild?
Swivels look very dry. Did check the amount of grease in them?

 

[Derek]

Absolute fine.

They aren’t meant to be chrome plated.

Personally I would have smoothed off some of the pitting with some jb weld before fitting new seals. But they aren’t leaking so all is well.

 

[RBG21]

Looking no different than others.
Seals are new. Did you do a front axle rebuild?
Swivels look very dry. Did check the amount of grease in them?

The truck fitter at work did it but he did grease, it’s had the full front axle rebuild kit from Roughtrax and a new front diff in it!.

Next things to do are brake bleed and fluid change, although I suspect I’ve got a sticky calliper too so might need to replace.
Radius arm bush needs doing, rocker cover gasket and the garage advised it has a small leak on the transfer box which will need investigating at some point, plus the exhaust, which is going to have to wait a little bit now.
Also ordered a service kit and cam belt from Roughtrax yesterday so going to change all fluids and do belt at the same time as the brakes.

 

[LandLocked93]

The felt is intended to make up for "clearance" in that area.
No need "chrome". lol
What a load.

 

[Ciderman]

Yeah landrover sphere ends are chromed... and removable also.
The Toyota ones are just machined smooth steel.
Theyll pit and corrode eventually but with a decent set of felts and good levels of grease inside, theyll be fine.

On my old 60 series, they were actually pitted to hell, probably been in seawater or badly maintained grease wise... i wondered if i could gritblast, chemically clean and then either soft solder or silver solder the pitting, then hand dress them to a nice smooth surface.... but decided that was way too OCD.

Give em a damn good wire brushing or even gritblast with a handheld blaster, and paint with a decent hard paint like spray smooth hammerite...
To be honest, new rubbers and felts soaked in EP90 will be fine none the less.

 

[Dave2000]

The balls on my 80 are pitted, and a couple of things to think about. @Rodger on the 40 forum suggested por 15 solvent paste and paint, which could be the way to go if you or anyone else had an issue. If you are pushed for time and need to get off road for awhile, then go to Land Rover and get a couple tubes of 'One Shot' grease, this is used by LR if the EP90 is leaking, but it is a good 'get you by' on a Land Cruiser, thicker than the normal grease recommended for the swivels in the 80 and a tube (comes with a nozzle) in each of the swivels will see you good for awhile.

Regards

Dave

 

[essexpete]

That is useful advice Dave.

 

[Shayne]

JB Weld or similar resin and one of these which are truly magical for fast non aggressive smoothing/paint removal/whatever even on wood .

Non-Woven Preparation Wheel 115mm - Screwfix

Order online at Screwfix.com. Non-woven preparation wheel. Ideal for removing paint, varnish, rust and scale for surface preparation. Compatible with most brands of angle grinders. FREE next day delivery available, free collection in 1 minute.

www.screwfix.com

 

[Dave2000]

@Shayne Your probably right mate but having seen what this por 15 can do, using the paste and the paint and seeing how it sets rock hard, I would say whatever you use this por 15 is a hard act to follow.

Regards

Dave

 

[Shayne]

POR is a resin of sorts but because of its intended use it can't be as strong as something that comes in a little tube .

 

[Sarmajornz]

I painted my swivel hub balls with POR15 about 7 years ago because they were getting a little sad looking. That is the hardest paint I have ever come across. they sell a small starter kit with a the components that you need for prep. I left the paint to harden for a few days and then completed the rebuild. Haven’t had to replace a seal since and they do not appear to leak much at all. Just a slight bit of ooze at the bottom. The POR15 started off with a gloss finish and has worn to a mat finish where the seals rub on the surface. Stop Rust Kit - Gloss Black - [Leaving Land Cruiser Club]

 

[Dave2000]

POR is a resin of sorts but because of its intended use it can't be as strong as something that comes in a little tube .

Very possible Shayne, but I think the resin is more for the pitting, the paint as alluded to by @Sarmajornz is the coating that I think is the kiddy in this application, i too have rusty balls.....ooooer so this will be my next job, when feeling up to it I will strip down the hub and replace all the bearing/seals and the CV's, all parts sitting in the 'Almacen', I will use the por 15 based on the results after welding in a new arch on my 80.

The only thing I was warned about is the paint is very hard once set, and if I am not careful I would end up with a bump at the bottom of the swivel where the paint was about to drip off and then hardened. Let's see how it goes, plans are all there and only one more set of tests at the Neurologist for the all clear to drive again.

Regards

Dave

 

[Shayne]

Either way it achieves the same thing which is to smooth the surface making life easier on the outer seals .

My solution comes from a suspected inner seal leak . Diff oil spilled out when the filler cap was removed which might be because the axle has been moved some with caster correction , but regardless it looked a little thicker than i would expect .

Refilled the diff with new oil and tramsmission leakstop because typically it was discovered the day before a fairly long drive and i will just see how it goes until im ready to order a rebuild kit .

While contemplating this and researching potential problems I found fancy double lip inner seals and plenty of suggestions to sit the seal a little deeper as shafts are often worn .

I figure resin and wet&dry paper on a block of wood will let me sand the shaft true again .

 

[Shayne]

HD FJ80 Inner Axle Seal | Marlin Crawler, Inc.

...

www.marlincrawler.com

 

[chapel gate]

i pretty much always fit SKF speedi sleeves when i do a front hub rebuild.

 

[Sarmajornz]

i pretty much always fit SKF speedi sleeves when i do a front hub rebuild.

Could you share the size or part number. Thanks.

 

[frank rabbets]

Speedi sleeves and genuine Toyota inner seals.

 

[Jake the Peg]

This is what I fitted to mine

SKF 99139 Hardened Stainless Speedi Sleeve for Shafts - Shaft 35mm | eBay

Please note: If the selected brand is not available a suitable alternative will be sent

www.ebay.co.uk

The balls on my axle were quite scored and really wet with gear oil, the grease was long washed out and the axle was in generally bad shape. I wire wheeled the entire axle, painted it with zinc primer and the axle case with smoothrite, the balls were painted with zinc and a top coat of spray enamel from halfrauds. The long shaft was fitted with a speedi sleeve, genuine oil seals and the hubs with Milner seals / bearings and gaskets. After 4 years the hubs are still perfect, there is no dripping or leaking from them. Use new studs and nuts in the lower swivel bearing cap as these can be a problem for slacking off
I think the paint and prep for the whole axle was around 20£

 

[Shayne]

Interesting , I remember Chris mentioning speedi sleeve way back but in the same sentence he also mentioned his lathe so i never bothered to investigate .

What size sleeve I'm guessing its 35mm or something ?