Durite split charger issue

[Howmanygoes]

I have the above device to feed my lesuire battery and to keep starter batteries from draining. Well came to go away this am and the starter batteries didn’t have enough juice to turn Thomas over.

Obviously something is drawing power. I am also wondering if the split charge isnt cutting out as it should.

Any other thoughts.

 

[Steve Wright]

I have the above device to feed my lesuire battery and to keep starter batteries from draining. Well came to go away this am and the starter batteries didn’t have enough juice to turn Thomas over.

Obviously something is drawing power. I am also wondering if the split charge isnt cutting out as it should.

Any other thoughts.

Hi
I would not think the split charger is the problem, if it is faulty all it would do is allow both batteries would get to the same voltage and should still start, I suspect the current draw is on the main starting battery.
What you need to do is get the multi-meter out, and do some checks, first before you do get it started measure the voltage of the two batteries, and see if there is a difference, and if the split unit is ok I suspect the leisure battery is at a higher voltage.then start it and again check the voltages !

once you have got to this stage, you need to check out to see if any thing has been left on but one place to look is to see if the diode has gone leaky in the Alternator
and also check by putting a ammeter between the battery and earth (disconnect main earth lead) and pulling each fuse etc

 

[StarCruiser]

Hi
I would not think the split charger is the problem, if it is faulty all it would do is allow both batteries would get to the same voltage and should still start, I suspect the current draw is on the main starting battery.
What you need to do is get the multi-meter out, and do some checks, first before you do get it started measure the voltage of the two batteries, and see if there is a difference, and if the split unit is ok I suspect the leisure battery is at a higher voltage.then start it and again check the voltages !

once you have got to this stage, you need to check out to see if any thing has been left on but one place to look is to see if the diode has gone leaky in the Alternator
and also check by putting a ammeter between the battery and earth (disconnect main earth lead) and pulling each fuse etc

As above, just be careful with the ammeter. Not easy to insert in the Earth lead as this needs doing while the truck is off so as not to fry anything, especially the alternator, then you need one that will be beefy enough to take starting current. Far better to use a DC clamp meter or sensor, or you can get fused insert leads that plug in where the fuses are to test each circuit for draw. Trailer buzzers and sockets are a favourite for problems with parasitic draws.
Finally depending on the age of the batteries they could simply have died or the alternator may not be charging them. You should get at or about 14.4v charging after a start. Anything much less and the alternator may need attention.

 

[Howmanygoes]

Some further info on this.

I have a 130ah agm battery in the boot and the 2 battery set up in the engine bay. The main battery is connected via a fuse to the durite unit. From here it goes to a 12way individually fused distribution unit. From the distribution unit I have lights, sockets and fridge connected. The fridge is the biggest draw. This is a very simplistic overview.

When the main fuse is removed the agm battery provides all the power but leaving the fuse in and power is being drawn from all sources.

All I can think is that the Durite isn’t breaking the connection or the voltages aren’t set correctly.

I will get the volt meter out today and take some numbers.

 

[StarCruiser]

Test across the Durite as well. Sounds from what you say that it’s making connection but that will verify it if there’s 0 volts across it.

 

[Howmanygoes]

Cheers. That’s tomorrows job then.

 

[Howmanygoes]

Ok so these are the figures I took.
Ignition off:
Main battery (mb) 12.57v
2nd battery(2b) 12.57v

Ignition on
Mb 14.21v
2b 14.21v
Connect feed to split charge (sc)(refitted fuse)
Mb 13.96
2b 13.96
Rear battery (rb) 13.54
Into sc 13.70
Out off sc 13.67

Ignition off:
Into sc 12.90
Out of sc 12.87
Rear battery 12.69

After turning off ignition sc didn’t disengage for over 10mins so I pulled the connecting fuse and it was still showing a red light, after another 8.5 mins it disconnected....

If it doesn’t disconnect unless I pull the fuse it’s always going to draw from the mb and could this also screw my starter?

 

[Steve Wright]

Ok so these are the figures I took.
Ignition off:
Main battery (mb) 12.57v
2nd battery(2b) 12.57v

Ignition on
Mb 14.21v
2b 14.21v
Connect feed to split charge (sc)(refitted fuse)
Mb 13.96
2b 13.96
Rear battery (rb) 13.54
Into sc 13.70
Out off sc 13.67

Ignition off:
Into sc 12.90
Out of sc 12.87
Rear battery 12.69

After turning off ignition sc didn’t disengage for over 10mins so I pulled the connecting fuse and it was still showing a red light, after another 8.5 mins it disconnected....

If it doesn’t disconnect unless I pull the fuse it’s always going to draw from the mb and could this also screw my starter?

Hi interesting readings, but what is concerning is that it does not disengage when you turn off the engine but doing a google search seems as if there a issue with them, check out this clip:

 

[Howmanygoes]

Thanks. Had found some other posts which mention the same thing. I thought I may have bought the wrong bit of kit as you can’t adjust the switching voltage. Maybe I should buy a dc2dc charger....but would rather avoid the expense. I could install a relay to switch it on and off but open to human error.

 

[Gary820]

I use a Durite split charge and it stays connected as it's a voltage sensitive relay, you can get different ones with a different voltage level from simply split charge https://www.simplysplitcharge.co.uk/index.php?route=product/category&path=88

The Durite is 12.65v and the other type are 12.8 so cut out quicker, I'm waiting for stock of the Merlin one they do as want a higher voltage cut out.

 

[StarCruiser]

Sounds like it’s working correctly then.
The thing is, just connecting another healthy battery isn’t going to be a parasitic drain.

From your readings your alternator is fine, delivering the correct charge voltage. Your batteries are accepting that charge equally and your leisure battery is also receiving and accepting charge. I think another round of voltage checks would have revealed your starter batteries settling in voltage too.

You say you have an AGM battery in the boot. This battery will never receive full charge as they need 14.7v to fully charge. It won’t be getting this for two reasons,
1, your alternator is set to give 14.4v max and
2, there will be voltage dropped across the cable run to the boot unless it’s a very heavy cable.
AGM batteries are not suitable for a simple split charge system. I don’t however think this is the issue you are having with starter battery drain.

It is worth checking the cut out voltage of the Durite with a meter. From what Gary is saying, once all three batteries have settled to below 12.65v (because they are all connected) the Durite should disconnect. At this point there should be plenty of charge in the starter batteries.

I would think at this point, if the Durite does disconnect at it’s rated voltage, the starter batteries should not lose much more voltage IF they are in good health. It may be that they are simply getting old. One may be draining the other if it has an internal fault.

What happens if you remove the SC fuse and leave them over night? Test voltages on all batteries (vehicle batteries should read the same) and report back, then try a start if appropriate.
How long was the truck standing before the start attempt in the OP?

 

[Howmanygoes]

@StarCruiser thanks for your reply. The drain is almost certainly from my fridge (connected to leisure battery) disconnect the sc fuse and no starting issues. I will for completeness do some further drain testing. I will also post a simple wiring diagram.

 

[StarCruiser]

What puzzles me in that case is that everything would appear to be working as it has done from day one, assuming the Durite is functioning correctly.
I think you need to establish at what voltage the Durite cuts out. This could be easily done by observing it with a meter connected showing Volts at the Durite input terminal from the vehicle batteries and turning on a load without starting the engine. I would also have a chat with Durite on this. I would be very surprised if they weren’t incredibly helpful.

This doesn’t help the charge voltage for your AGM in the boot though. If you decide to replace the Durite then have a look at the Intervolt DCC Pro. They will operate switched from the ignition or volt sense (mainly for trailers) and will look after your AGM battery, take a solar input and maintain both batteries from the solar.
I’m not yet convinced the Durite is faulty though. I suspect your starter batteries are getting a bit tired but that they will show this more toward the winter. Having them tested by a battery supplier on one of their digital battery testers would be worthwhile. A spell on a Ctek charger could well be beneficial to them if they are ailing.

 

[Howmanygoes]

Bit the bullet and bought a Ctek 250sa. This should cure the AGM issue and the cut off point. Future proof for solar too.

 

[Howmanygoes]

Ok. C-tek arrived and wired in, including black AGM lead. I still appear to have issues

Is the 2001 100 series fitted with a smart alternator?

I ask because with the ctek connected and vehicle running the voltage at my front battery climbs to 13.15v then drops to 12.46 before climbing again.

The leisure mirrors this too...


Doesnt get anywhere near 14.6v

 

[leeloo]

Not sure what is going on with this CTEk s , I just got mine and is not charging anything at all, in any conditions, not fault indicators according to the manual, but is not charging the auxiliary battery ever.
At the starter battery there is no difference with the CTEK on or off , I got the usual 13.9 -14 v with the engine on. ( mine has smart alternator )
Smart alternators were fitted on land cruisers in 2008 so only the very late 120 series and after have them.
So you should have classic old school alternator.
Be careful that some AGM are type 1 , they need the same voltage as a normal starter battery, maximum 14.4 V and the type 2 that needs to have 14.7..


So make sure you AGM really needs 14.7, it should be specified in the spec sheet of the battery you have. Otherwise disconnect the black AGM wire.
My AGM that I just bought is type 1 so I left the CTEK on the standard setting.

 

[Howmanygoes]

I will double check the AGM type as you suggest thanks. But that doesn’t explain the voltage fluctuations I am getting.

The ctek is cutting in and out as the voltage fluctuates at the front end.

If I disconnect the fuse to the ctek I get a slow ramp up to to 13.86 at idle. Add throttle or load get to 14.2.

This basically appears that i can’t charge whilst idle only whilst driving? Surely this can’t be right.

 

[StarCruiser]

Sounds like your regulator is not giving the required 14.4v. Have you tried wiggling the plug on the back of the alternator.

 

[Howmanygoes]

Sounds like your regulator is not giving the required 14.4v. Have you tried wiggling the plug on the back of the alternator.

Nope..... wiggle test tomorrow then

 

[StarCruiser]

Do it while testing voltage across the battery and see if it causes any repeatable change in voltage. It’s not giving the same test results you posted earlier in the thread which seems to indicate there may be something going on with the alternator or a loose or corroded connection somewhere.