electrics diagnostic

HauptRenate

Member
Joined
Mar 14, 2010
Messages
187
Hi there
Can anyone better £200 for full electric diagnostic? 'lectrics are altopot since the break-in and the ensuing damage to the steering column.
I've been quoted this but I think its too expensive for just checking all the door/window/steering column/light 'lectrics.
Do any of you know a decent Bristol/SW England auto electrician who could give me a far better quote than this?
Cheers
Renate
 

Julian Voelcker

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 5, 2010
Messages
313
How long is the piece of string?

If I was quoting I would want to know exactly what the problems are and also any details of specific damage to the loom.

I have had intermittend electrical problems on trucks that have taken hours/days to track down and fix and that is having full access to wiring diagrams and an array of electrical testing kit which even your average auto electrician won't have.

It may sound a lot, but if he is doing it for a fixed price and you have a number of issues I would bite his hand off.
 

HauptRenate

Member
Joined
Mar 14, 2010
Messages
187
Hi Julian et al
Maybe I should do it myself and have someone tell me how to understand the diagrams - I have electrical diagrams but don't really understand them.
The £200 was for checking all the doors and windows and lights 'lectrics it was a fixed price.
I was thinking WD40-ing the window and door 'lecric connections because they stick and have done so since my frequent stints to the Sahara; again this is a recurring problem with sticky door locks and windows. The lights? well this problem is when on full-beam they all work, but when on normal beam or sidelights one light doesn't. I just wish I was more adept/confident at doing my own electrics. I think the lights issue is just adjustment and checking connections maybe. To be honest I now have some fuel in my tank so I'd be happy to drive it to one of you ELCO crowd so you can show me what I need to know, and what to do?
Cheers
Renate
 

Julian Voelcker

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 5, 2010
Messages
313
HauptRenate said:
Maybe I should do it myself and have someone tell me how to understand the diagrams - I have electrical diagrams but don't really understand them.

The key thing is to break down the actual problems.

HauptRenate said:
The £200 was for checking all the doors and windows and lights 'lectrics it was a fixed price.
I was thinking WD40-ing the window and door 'lecric connections because they stick and have done so since my frequent stints to the Sahara; again this is a recurring problem with sticky door locks and windows.

OK, what exactly is the problem with the locks and windows. Firstly they are on seperate (but related) circuits so you need to split the problems up.

With the windows do you have the standard problem of them being slow and sticking when trying to get them to go up particularly when cold/damp?

What is the problem with the door locks? Are they sticking when you try to lock them on each door or when you use the key in the drivers door and the central locking is playing up?

HauptRenate said:
The lights? well this problem is when on full-beam they all work, but when on normal beam or sidelights one light doesn't. I just wish I was more adept/confident at doing my own electrics. I think the lights issue is just adjustment and checking connections maybe.

Which light doesn't work on normal beam? If it is a main headlight it is probably just the bulb, otherwise it may be a minor earthing issue.

If you can get me a bit more info we shold be able to guide you through the problems.
 
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HauptRenate

Member
Joined
Mar 14, 2010
Messages
187
Hi Julian
Lights
Its one of my desert driving lights - when I had the lights fitted back in the mid 1990's they were rigged to compliment the normal 80 series' lights for night driving. i.e. when you switch on the hi-beam (full headlight) these come on too. When standing in front of the bonnet its the RHS one.
Its the driver's side door and window - window is very 'sticky' and labours if you try to open it - the last time I just WD40-ed it and it seemed to do the trick. I've replaced the other window contraptions so all the windows work except the drivers's one. And all the other doors 'unlock' and 'lock' without any problem.
Drivers's side door lock mechanism and window open/shut mechanism
The driver's side window opened without any problems until yesterday, but the door locking mechanism is permanently on 'lock' the switch to 'unlock' and 'lock' still operates but the lock seems to be fused, or something. I'm going to take the door covering off and WD40 the locking mechanism again - its two to three years since I last WD40-ed it. I don't want to get another replacement door lock and window open/shut mechanism as they're expensive.
Cheers
Renate
 

Julian Voelcker

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 5, 2010
Messages
313
OK, the light is probably a duff bulb or loose wiring to the light - check the bulb first.

The windows are notoriously slow, most likely window rubber problems and then a worn motor. You could try stripping the switch block to clean the contacts in there - do it carefully and when you open it make sure you have the switch side of things facing upwards. If cleaning the contacts and cleaning the rubbers don't help consider replacing the motor - Stef may have a reasonable second hand one.

The door lock may also be a dodgy connection in the switch block or something else sticking.

Try the above and let us know how you get on.
 
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