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Engine just stopped 4.2 Turbo HD-FTE 100 Series Sahara 2002

Slippery

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Joined
Jul 29, 2019
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australia
Hi Folks, just new to the club:- My problem is engine shut down :-just coming up to a corner, so decelerating engine at idle and it just stopped?? Fuel is fine, primes up fine; rockers still going up and down when engine is turned over, no fuel coming out of injector line when cracked at the injector while turning over; I suspect it is the fuel shut off solenoid so possible relay problem, possible security issue (factory immobiliser) where do i start??? has anyone had this issue come up?? I just returned from a 2500 km trip with no problems at all and I am thankful that it didn't happen on the trip. cheers Slippery
 
Hi Slippery,

Could be any number of things but sounds electrical to me as it was a dead stop. I’m not familiar with the 100 series or the fte controlled engine so this is all generic info. It assumes a good battery.

Check all fuses. Check any fusible links at the battery terminals. Check all battery connections are good and no small wires have become detached.

I believe there are some connectors into the top of the pump. I think there is one on it’s own or as a pair that sometimes goes bad. Check any connections to the pump. Try getting someone to turn the key while you wiggle connectors on the pump. If you get any life that may help narrow it down. There’s a thread on here with a repair in that area. Try a search on here. I’ll link to it if I find it.

Lastly disconnect your alternator and do a diode check across from the big terminal to the case. Again there’s a thread on here ‘1kzte rookie’ just to test that you haven’t got other issues which you probably haven’t.
 
Hi Folks, just new to the club:- My problem is engine shut down :-just coming up to a corner, so decelerating engine at idle and it just stopped?? Fuel is fine, primes up fine; rockers still going up and down when engine is turned over, no fuel coming out of injector line when cracked at the injector while turning over; I suspect it is the fuel shut off solenoid so possible relay problem, possible security issue (factory immobiliser) where do i start??? has anyone had this issue come up?? I just returned from a 2500 km trip with no problems at all and I am thankful that it didn't happen on the trip. cheers Slippery
Hi Slippery,

Could be any number of things but sounds electrical to me as it was a dead stop. I’m not familiar with the 100 series or the fte controlled engine so this is all generic info. It assumes a good battery.

Check all fuses. Check any fusible links at the battery terminals. Check all battery connections are good and no small wires have become detached.

I believe there are some connectors into the top of the pump. I think there is one on it’s own or as a pair that sometimes goes bad. Check any connections to the pump. Try getting someone to turn the key while you wiggle connectors on the pump. If you get any life that may help narrow it down. There’s a thread on here with a repair in that area. Try a search on here. I’ll link to it if I find it.

Lastly disconnect your alternator and do a diode check across from the big terminal to the case. Again there’s a thread on here ‘1kzte rookie’ just to test that you haven’t got other issues which you probably haven’t.
Hi Star Cruiser, many thanks for that, i'm checking along those lines aswell, batteries are good (all in the green), tested the connector at the spill valve wiring harness (computer side) with ignition on and there is no voltage (but not while cranking), I haven't checked the Fusable links at the batteries as yet (thanks for that) but will do tomorrow , i'll sleep on it and give it another crack tomorrow, i'm still trying to find my way around this site (a bit confusing) but if you find any of those threads that would be great.
Let you know tomorrow
Cheers Slippery
 
Hi Star Cruiser, many thanks for that, i'm checking along those lines aswell, batteries are good (all in the green), tested the connector at the spill valve wiring harness (computer side) with ignition on and there is no voltage (but not while cranking), I haven't checked the Fusable links at the batteries as yet (thanks for that) but will do tomorrow , i'll sleep on it and give it another crack tomorrow, i'm still trying to find my way around this site (a bit confusing) but if you find any of those threads that would be great.
Let you know tomorrow
Cheers Slippery
Hi Star Cruiser, no joy my end, currently have the dash pulled apart looking for anything out of the ordinary but have drawn a blank. my cruiser gets towed to a diesel injection specialist tomorrow and ill start shelling out the cash - ill let you know the outcome by tomorrow night.
cheers Slippery
 
Remove and clean or replace fuel shut off solenoid would be my first port of call. Eliminate from enquiries. Cheap and quick and high on the list of possible causes.
 
Not sure if there are SCVs (suction control valves) on the 1hd -fte but they are the one thing that seems to go on the 1kzt-e. From reading other posts on the SCVs, this sounds less like them and more fuel shut off valve.
 
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Hi Folks, just new to the club:- My problem is engine shut down :-just coming up to a corner, so decelerating engine at idle and it just stopped?? Fuel is fine, primes up fine; rockers still going up and down when engine is turned over, no fuel coming out of injector line when cracked at the injector while turning over; I suspect it is the fuel shut off solenoid so possible relay problem, possible security issue (factory immobiliser) where do i start??? has anyone had this issue come up?? I just returned from a 2500 km trip with no problems at all and I am thankful that it didn't happen on the trip. cheers Slippery
Hi Guys, Just to fill you in on what the problem was after all this time - After stripping the dash apart and checking all electrical components and connections I went back to the Web and searched up a couple of things and this is what I found- there was no power to the injector pump firstly, the spill valve in the injector pump was within the manufacturers resistance specs (so nothing wrong there)- phoned a reputable Fuel Injection company and had my vehicle delivered there for diagnostics and repair- the company said they would have it diagnosed within two hours!!! 36 hours later still no word -I phoned and told them to stop work on my vehicle and to quote the impending repair (they said it was the pump for sure). Two injector pumps later they still couldn't get my vehicle to run and on the third week of having my vehicle they borrowed another land cruiser to map the electronic signals so as to compare with mine they finally worked out that the EDU ( just behind the battery box) was stuffed so another $1000 on top of the $3250 and I got my vehicle back (it runs like a pile of shit). when the vehicle is parked for two hours or overnight the fuel drains back into the tank and the vehicle won't start - you have to go through the priming process. So- back and forth the vehicle went back to the repairer and I have only just had it now for about three weeks since I posted the first enquiry here - still doesn't run right and I have now just lost fifth gear on the auto (probably unrelated but not sure) QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS!!!!!#@^**~!!??""*@#^^, my vehicle was perfect before this happened and also "I don't believe there was anything wrong with my injector pump in the first place....................Pissed off!!!!! WARM REGARDS SLIPPERY :))
 
Hi Guys, Just to fill you in on what the problem was after all this time - After stripping the dash apart and checking all electrical components and connections I went back to the Web and searched up a couple of things and this is what I found- there was no power to the injector pump firstly, the spill valve in the injector pump was within the manufacturers resistance specs (so nothing wrong there)- phoned a reputable Fuel Injection company and had my vehicle delivered there for diagnostics and repair- the company said they would have it diagnosed within two hours!!! 36 hours later still no word -I phoned and told them to stop work on my vehicle and to quote the impending repair (they said it was the pump for sure). Two injector pumps later they still couldn't get my vehicle to run and on the third week of having my vehicle they borrowed another land cruiser to map the electronic signals so as to compare with mine they finally worked out that the EDU ( just behind the battery box) was stuffed so another $1000 on top of the $3250 and I got my vehicle back (it runs like a pile of shit). when the vehicle is parked for two hours or overnight the fuel drains back into the tank and the vehicle won't start - you have to go through the priming process. So- back and forth the vehicle went back to the repairer and I have only just had it now for about three weeks since I posted the first enquiry here - still doesn't run right and I have now just lost fifth gear on the auto (probably unrelated but not sure) QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS!!!!!#@^**~!!??""*@#^^, my vehicle was perfect before this happened and also "I don't believe there was anything wrong with my injector pump in the first place....................Pissed off!!!!! WARM REGARDS SLIPPERY :))
From another 100 owner, I'm sorry to hear of your problem, I wish I could help.

I to have no faith whatsoever in so called 'Qualified Professionals'

Good Luck, keep all your chins up.
 
So sorry to hear this Slippery. What I can tell you is that there is a fuel leak causing the fuel to need re-priming each morning. For you to also say that it runs bad indicates to me the leak is on the inlet side to the pump. IE ‘from’ the tank not ‘to’ the tank. Check for fuel leaks while pumping the primer. All round all the joints they have disturbed while changing the pump. Also check the fuel filter is tight. Final possibility is the diaphragm in the primer itself. I doubt it’s this.
Silver lining is that the Truck runs. Fuel leak shouldn’t be too tricky to find and fix. It’s pulling in air which is why if everything else is right, it runs rough.

I do hate workshops that play the scattergun diagnostic game with customers money. Shame they didn’t read the Toyota FSM that states ‘fuel problems won’t be the pump’.
 
So sorry to hear this Slippery. What I can tell you is that there is a fuel leak causing the fuel to need re-priming each morning. For you to also say that it runs bad indicates to me the leak is on the inlet side to the pump. IE ‘from’ the tank not ‘to’ the tank. Check for fuel leaks while pumping the primer. All round all the joints they have disturbed while changing the pump. Also check the fuel filter is tight. Final possibility is the diaphragm in the primer itself. I doubt it’s this.
Silver lining is that the Truck runs. Fuel leak shouldn’t be too tricky to find and fix. It’s pulling in air which is why if everything else is right, it runs rough.

I do hate workshops that play the scattergun diagnostic game with customers money. Shame they didn’t read the Toyota FSM that states ‘fuel problems won’t be the pump’.
Thanks Guys for your input - much appreciated, will continue with the air leak detection but very tedious to say the least; with regard to losing 5th gear on the five speed auto trans, I took it to a auto trans guy who test drove it and said yep theres a problem but go home and check all the harness connectors on the gear box (he had one customer he found that the rear two pins on one of the connectors where green-once cleaned up 5th returned, problem solved). If I didn't find anything then to bring it back and he would look into it! (estimate $800). Checked all the connectors (all good), took the console apart and checked the micro switches under the shift gate and they checked out fine; phoned a place called Total Landcruiser Care and they said there is a Automatic Driver Unit under the dash- the first thing they would do is disconnect the batteries (2) for 30 minutes and then connect which resets the computer - no luck there- next point of call would be pan off and replace the 5th gear solenoid as this could be the problem. So I did just that - disconnect the batteries and re-connect after 1/2 hr and Bingo!!! I have my 5th gear back - happy days :))
worth noting
Cheers Slippery
 
One method of eliminating fuel line issues is to run from a can. Disconnect at the input to the fuel primer/filter and try there. Another thing to do is to replace the short length of fuel hose between the filter and the pump with transparent. This allows you to see any bubbles. I would also remake any joints that have been disturbed on the fuel inlet side of the pump. By this I mean replace any copper or aluminium sealing washers with new. These can be on the fuel inlet if there’s a ‘banjo’ fitting. inspect any fuel hose that may have been disconnected. These are often a double layer construction and the inner can be folded back if you’re unlucky fitting it. Check clamps are tight. To eliminate the primer you can run direct into the pump PROVIDED you have a suitable inline filter. Any dirt of microscopic size can destroy the pump as it relies on incredibly close tolerance of parts. Any dirt can cause a scratch which will impede its working ability. Final thought is:- what sort of pump did they replace it with? New or reconditioned? Have they changed any of the electrical valves on the pump? Have you considered taking it back to them to find (I would understand if you didn’t want to under the circumstances).

It is also possible that the pump has not been timed correctly to the engine. This can either be a tooth out on the timing belt which is easy to check or down to the fixing angle of the pump on its slotted bolt holes. I don’t think it’s that because you say you have to prime it each morning. One other thing to try is to pump the primer when it’s running rough and see if you get an improvement. This will only really reinforce suspicion of a fuel leak, which we already pretty much know due to having to pump the primer each morning.
 
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One method of eliminating fuel line issues is to run from a can. Disconnect at the input to the fuel primer/filter and try there. Another thing to do is to replace the short length of fuel hose between the filter and the pump with transparent. This allows you to see any bubbles. I would also remake any joints that have been disturbed on the fuel inlet side of the pump. By this I mean replace any copper or aluminium sealing washers with new. These can be on the fuel inlet if there’s a ‘banjo’ fitting. inspect any fuel hose that may have been disconnected. These are often a double layer construction and the inner can be folded back if you’re unlucky fitting it. Check clamps are tight. To eliminate the primer you can run direct into the pump PROVIDED you have a suitable inline filter. Any dirt of microscopic size can destroy the pump as it relies on incredibly close tolerance of parts. Any dirt can cause a scratch which will impede its working ability. Final thought is:- what sort of pump did they replace it with? New or reconditioned? Have they changed any of the electrical valves on the pump? Have you considered taking it back to them to find (I would understand if you didn’t want to under the circumstances).

It is also possible that the pump has not been timed correctly to the engine. This can either be a tooth out on the timing belt which is easy to check or down to the fixing angle of the pump on its slotted bolt holes. I don’t think it’s that because you say you have to prime it each morning. One other thing to try is to pump the primer when it’s running rough and see if you get an improvement. This will only really reinforce suspicion of a fuel leak, which we already pretty much know due to having to pump the primer each morning.
:text-goodpost:
 
All as per others, but could there be air in the system that is not coming out, just being pushed around.
As it has been messed with by monkeys, it leaves you uncertain where to start
As you can get it running after priming and it runs rough, try cracking each injector in turn for simple check.
Hope you get sorted soon.
 
Not sure if its been mentioned already but fuel filter primers often fail with no visible sign because they are letting in air rather than leaking fuel .
 
As Starcruiser says, Bypass fuel filter and run straight from a can to the injector pump, Iv eliminated a few fuel related problems doing this... If it runs sweet start working your way back till you find the problem, It only takes the smallest of holes/leaks to make it run rough as hell.... Good luck Mate, And good news with the 5th gear :thumbup:..... And as its been said before having to prime it up each morning is a good indication of air in the system/fuel running back etc etc...
 
Thanks Guys for all the tips, ill get the microscope out and see if I can track down the air leak and anything else I can discover- will keep you posted.

Cheers Slippery
 
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