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Engine tapping when cold
- Thread starter Lolly B
- Start date
Could simply be the oil is a bit on the cold side and thick. Not sure if the d4d has hydraulic tappers but these can do this. Also any engine when cold is going to complain a bit. Without hearing it, it's hard to tell but I would expect it to be normal and go away when the weather warms up. It doesn't hurt to run it and get a bit of heat through before setting off on really cold mornings. 80k, that's just run in so you shouldn't have anything to worry about. Do your usual checks of engine and trans oil and if low top up.
I'd be interested to hear from others on this but I would say it's normal though I have no experience of that engine.
I'd be interested to hear from others on this but I would say it's normal though I have no experience of that engine.
If its of any comfort, my old 80 (410k km) sounds like a can of dried peas on first start up when very cold, but it calms down a bit when the oil gets pumped up to the cam.
If it doesn’t tick or tap when warm, it sounds like tappet adjustment (if there is such a thing on a D4d) is OK.
Of course as @StarCruiser commented, its hard to say without hearing it first hand (or should that be ear?)...
By chance, do you use the recommended oil viscosity? It’s 10/40W in my 80, but I don’t know what’s recommended for the D4d.
Thanks for that , always changed oil on time and used genuine filter, I would also like to hear from others.
Karlosfandango
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I thought ours sounded like a bag of spanners when we first got it (bought with 12ok on it) My wife assures me it is a quirk of that engine and Toyota engines when cold. She even showed me the post on a forum. I'm still a bit reticent. I've started adding 5% two stroke oil every fill up, so far it certainly sounds better.
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I use Doxos 2 which is 5W/30 fully synthetic.
When I first got my 80 I asked toyota what oil. Mobil 1 they said in all their engines. I called Morris's and they said their Multivis exceeded the spec of Mobil 1 so that's what I use. BEBs after 90000 miles where like new when I changed them.
At 80,000 klms I would be getting the injectors checked. It is a sign that there could be a leakage past the injectors and is most prevalent when the engine is cold. The engine is still quite young and although the 120 is an older version now it should be reasonably quiet.
Is that something that's possible to interrogate with the right diagnostic tool Phil?
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Not Phil, but it would show up on Techstream (cheap on ebay), the injector values would be out of spec or uneven when running. Mine rattles for a couple of seconds and then settles, still not the quietest of engines though. When I checked on Techstream, the delivery values were pretty even. Next time you do your oil change, shine a light up through the plug hole and check that the mesh filter is clean.
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Not sure on how it is diagnosed but do know that it was a warranty fix in Australia as the injector seals failed which made the engine fail by burning Pistons. It was a big problem here. I'm not sure what Techstream is as Flint suggested but it sounds good. The 120's here are all solid lifters I'm told and hydraulics didn't come here until the 150 series.
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Techstream is Toyota diagnostic software, a handy tool. It comes with a gubbins that plugs into the diagnostic socket below the dash on the drivers side (on UK models). Something like this:
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/MINI-VC...223697256?epid=2064610302&hash=item2a6d60f568
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/MINI-VC...223697256?epid=2064610302&hash=item2a6d60f568
Thanks Flint I will have a look.
Rob Cowell
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In the land of the blind, etc, etc.
I only know what I've read on very long Pradopoint threads. You really don't want your injection feedback as viewed in Techstream to be outside +/- 3.0 when warm. You'd really like them to be around +/- 1.0.
Some pictures of what to look for and an idea of what's involved in changing the injectors here. https://www.landcruiserclub.net/community/threads/injector-swap.145851/
Baileys seem to be the go to guys in Oz for new injectors. When I did mine they had a nice download guide on how to change the injectors too, but if you get that far I'd say it's well worth getting hold of the workshop manual; plenty floating about on CD on ebay.
I will say mine used to knock a lot when cold, and the engine shook noticeably at idle when in drive but with foot on the brake. All that went when I changed the injectors. I'd done about 140,000 miles when I changed mine and one of the injectors was between +/-4 and 5 which scared me. I had previously got a couple of injectors back in spec with a few Redex treatments and switching to premium diesel. I try and use premium diesel whenever I can now.
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