Error code PO170 Bank 1

[Bob Mane]

Symptoms:

Morning start RPM takes about 5 minutes to slowly creep down to 12K from near 2K.
- if i warm it up it runs fine
- if i start and go, i will be driving and the rpm will jump up then back down to normal (more noticeable going down a hill in 2nd the RPM will start fighting with the tranny) it is not super extreme but happens any time i don't warm it.

fuel smell around car when running - like turn off car jump out drivers door and smell a fuel like smell

Error Code
PO170 Bank 1

 

[Richard Turner]

Hi! Your code is P0170 (zero one seven zero). It means maximum fuel adaptation reached, the ecu is adding fuel to compensate for excess oxygen being sensed by the lambda sensor, and is adding so much it can't add any more.

If we ignore that for a minute and look at the cold start symptom of too high idle speed, this normally means unmetered air entering the inlet, or possibly the idle air control valve stuck or not working.

The idle speed should be about 650rpm engine warm, it will be higher with the air con on.

I think a good place to start would be to check for any split or disconnected vacuum pipes, especially on the carbon fuel canister as this could be where your fuel smell is coming from, and also any splits on the main flexible intake trunking from the airbox to the intake.

Next check for exhaust leaks or cracks in the manifold area and the exhaust in front of the Catalytic converters, as this would cause excess oxygen at the Lambda sensor also, but this would be less likely to cause your high idle speed.

The other possibility although less likely is a faulty Lambda sensor, the lambda sensor can be tested in situ though, and you would be likely to have a code for the lambda sensor stored in the ecu, although not always.

Has the truck been like this for a long time or is it a recent occurrence? Running the engine this rich will quite quickly damage the catalysts, stopping them converting by washing the lining from then eventually causing them to break up and block the exhaust, often causing odd running faults and blowing the exhaust gaskets. You can often hear if they are breaking up by giving them a moderate thump with a rubber mallet or similar and listening for the ceramic rattling inside.

Hope this helps!

 

[Bob Mane]

Thanks for the tips. I took it to an auto parts store and the guy said it could be PCM/Replace Engine Control. I assumed he was not an authority and I'd have to dig in and look closer. I just had and exhaust leak welded and replaced converter gasket did not fix issue but seemed to slightly improve power. Guy who welded it said he also saw front of engine on pan slight leaking and front pinion seal leaking.

No I only got it about a month ago so I don't know the actual history. Guy who sold it to me said he replaced a blown engine with a 180k engine. It has not been looked at close since I got it so for sure I will go over those steps and see how it goes.

 

[Dave2000]

Usual fire precautions in place, with engine idling spray some WD40 (using the straw adaptor) around different areas of the air intake, manifold, vacuum pipes, throttle assembly and so forth, a change in engine note means the WD40 has been drawn in to the combustion chamber and contaminated the mix, this will identify where a leak is.

Regards

Dave

 

[StarCruiser]

I’m a bit confused here, you say the code is for bank one, what engine is in this truck as I would have associated Bank 1 with a V engine?

Just curious.

 

[Richard Turner]

I’m a bit confused here, you say the code is for bank one, what engine is in this truck as I would have associated Bank 1 with a V engine?

Just curious.

Simply because it is a generic code system, you can ignore the Bank 1 bit if there isnt a bank 2. Saves on codes, as you would need another whole set of codes for 'Bank 0'.

If it had a V engine with seperate exhausts it would probably have 2 codes, one for Bank 1 and one for Bank 2.

Or if you had a more advanced intake system with Vvti or VVtl-i you may have more lambda sensors and need the extra codes. My straight 6 BMW has one lambda for each set of 3 cylinders, then another 2 after the catalysts.

Less is more though as one good lambda can control the whole thing, where if you have more there are more to go wrong and they are expensive and a pain to change.

Here's a good list of codes.

www.obd-codes.com/p01-codes

 

[StarCruiser]

Thanks for that Rich. Saves my brain cell getting all agitated.

 

[Gary820]

Check the rubber intake pipe from the air filter to the throttle body, they split for fun, exhaust for leaks as said as that'l make it run rich and smell.

 

[Bob Mane]

dont know if the link will work but this is video of the "reving"
https://photos.app.goo.gl/HPtyFxfMKVnQVBMG2
only the first 10 seconds is relevant. the RPM bumps that come later in video are just me tapping accelerator. so i had just put it in neutral and it revved once then stopped because it suddenly was then warmed up enough to stop. just prior to the video it had been revving like this and like i described in the first post. like while driving in 2nd gear down hill would seem to be randomly revving and fighting the low gear