Front stub axle/Birfield/drive flange issue

[Ayden]

Afternoon all!

Ive recently had some issues when attempting to replace the front drivers side Birfield joint and Drive flange due to the splines stripping. Old drive flange was the thin type, new drive flange is the thicker (updated)? type.

Put simply the new drive flange doesnt fit.....It hits the threads on the stub axle, i checked the passenger side and there are no threads protruding and the drive flange on that side is of the thicker type. So it seems to me the stub axle is longer on the drivers side?

The problems dont stop there, i had already fitted the new birfield so just re-fitted the old drive flange, there seems to be a huge amount of in and out movement now? I fitted the new drive flange onto the passenger side as they were the same and now it pops both the end caps off when turning?!

I shall follow up with some pictures when i get back, just wondered if there was something ive done wrong!

 

[IRLGW]

Have you located the snap ring properly into the drive shaft? it sounds like your whole assembly is jutting out too far. also make sure the inner end of the driveshaft has re-engaged into the diff properly. Check your cv shaft to make sure it is the same length as the old one in case its a part mix up. Assuming that all the parts are correct, then something isn't pushed in far enough

 

[AndycruiserguyLomas]

Hi Ayden, don't know where abouts you are but I've a load of front axle bits from a couple I've stripped ( axles that is) if you are in need of any bits.

Andy

 

[Chris]

I think IRLGW has nailed it there. You need to do the old tie-wrap trick to assemble the birfield

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

Going back quite a few years now a few people had problems with a batch of after market stub axles that caused contact between the end of the stub axle and the drive flange. Obviously that would only be relevant if the stub axle in question isn't original but the CV doesn't influence how the hub sits on the stub axle and if the flange contacts the threads. If you have thin flanges and long CV's that would pop the caps off though.

 

[Chris]

I'd agree with that of course Jon. I think it depends on just what exactly is happening here. The drive flange is hitting the threads of the stub axle? Is that actually possible? I haven't heard of that. That would have to be an epic miss-manufacture. These things are notoriously hard to diagnose when you are not actually there.
Where in the world are you Ayden?

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

It was only a slight difference but yes, the flange would hit the end of the stub axle before it got to the hub. As you said, difficult to diagnose remotely so may not be the op's problem at all but worth mentioning just in case.

 

[Ayden]

Sorry yes, to put it clearly the flange is hitting the stub axle....

On the passenger side with the hub on and done up, there is maybe a thread or 2 showing? Drivers side there is at leat 6 or 7...

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

sounds suspiciously like one of those miss-manufactured stub axles unless something even stranger is going on. If you get the chance to compare your stub axle with another don't just compare overall length, check where the bearing surfaces are as well - it's a long time ago but I'm not sure it was as simple as a too long stub axle and might have been the shoulder the hub bearings come up against being in the wrong place or the wrong profile.

 

[Chris]

Another one for the knowledge bank there JW

 

[Ayden]

Done a little measuring today....

The threaded part on the stub axle causing the issues is just over 2mm longer than the other....guess that could be the issue.... as can be seen in the (poor0 pictures, it sticks out alot further that the flange mounting face!!

With regards to the end caps popping off, ive solved that one, id simply ordered the wrong drive flange, it appears i have the longer birfs, passenger side had a thick flange on, drivers had the thin, just need to order another thick flange!!

 

[Chris]

Well it makes getting the nut on a bit easier! That's very strange isn't but clear to see. So is it the wrong part, or made incorrectly or a patter part that's poor or what?

I'd just check that in the lathe and shorten it, but then not everyone has a lathe ..

 

[Ayden]

Well it makes getting the nut on a bit easier! That's very strange isn't but clear to see. So is it the wrong part, or made incorrectly or a patter part that's poor or what?

I'd just check that in the lathe and shorten it, but then not everyone has a lathe ..

Ive ordered a new one from Milner for now, will see whatb happens when it turns up!

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

Is the middle flange in that 2nd picture the original drivers side one? It looks like it has been machined for clearance and reduced the amount of spline contact as well ... they don't normally look like that and that would explain how the old flange fitted.

 

[Ayden]

Is the middle flange in that 2nd picture the original drivers side one? It looks like it has been machined for clearance and reduced the amount of spline contact as well ... they don't normally look like that and that would explain how the old flange fitted.

It is yes, also has signs of being machined/butchered! Would explain why it failed and why a new one doesnt fit!

 

[Ayden]

You can see here the exceptional craftmanship that went into it (haha) also the almost worn smooth splines!

It felt like major backlash through the drivetrain! Amazingly, it held up to a weekend of towing a Tri-axle trailer hauling Land rovers and failed the next day when the other half took it to work

 

[Chris]

OMG! Yes, right, well that might just be the issue then.

The Milner stubs are genuine Toyota parts. I know, I've seen them. Typically they have the roller bearing upgrade in them too.

 

[Ayden]

So it's fixed.....sort of, new stub axle, thick drive flange and some new wheel bearing bits, all back together and working like a treat...except for the alternator, not charging it appears