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Front wheel bearing.

andyw

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Have noticed a bit of a metallic creak from the offside front wheel when going over kerbs, also just given the wheel a bit of a shake and it seems like a bit of play in the wheel bearing, are these connected and is it the same setup as my surf, like does it need a 54mm socket.
 

uHu

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Ya, 54 mm thin-wall socket. Check every 20 k miles.

Creak is more likely to be a ball, e.g. the one on the lower A-arm. Check the rubber boots for crack/leak. The boots can be replaced - comes in a kit with grease.
 

andyw

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It had an advisory on the last MOT for the lower suspension ball joint, so will have a look tomorrow.
 

andyw

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If it is the ball joint how hard are they to fit, and will I need a press to get them out.

Also where is a good place to get them.
 

warrenpfo

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I noticed over the weekend that my front driver’s side has a little play in it. Is it best to do both fronts if doing one and is there a best place to get them from....Ian??

Looking around it does not seem to hard a job but am a little lost on the spring tensioner needed for doing some of the nuts up??
 

Jon Wildsmith

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They're not something that has to be done in pairs, like say brake pads, but it's sensible to check them both. Quite often the bearings are ok and it's actually the thrust washer that has worn away, meaning maybe some fresh grease, a new lock washer and correct pre-load and you're done. It's basicly the same set up as an 80 series and if you search the net you'll find a fair amount has been written about the best ways to get the pre-load right. I don't use a spring scale, I use a specific torque on the nut as I find that the most reliable method, YMMV.
 
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warrenpfo

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Thanks Jon

Does one buy the bearing on its own or is it a kit that you buy??

Is it best to get what I need from Toyota direct, Ian or another provider?

Anyone else need to do a wheel bearing as being my first time could do with the moral support to make sure its done correct.
 

Jon Wildsmith

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You can buy any of the parts individually. If you are 'going in' then make sure you get a few spare lock washers because they're very cheap and should be replaced each time you take the hub nuts off but are easily overlooked when ordering the parts. You want to speak to Ian :thumbup:
 

Andy Harvey

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andyw said:
If it is the ball joint how hard are they to fit, and will I need a press to get them out.

Also where is a good place to get them.

Andy.

Have not done one yet - have my MOT tomorrow and it was an advisory on the last one so will see if it has got worse and may have to do it. Have heard they are a bit of a pain but not impossible. Mr Rubie may be able to get you one. I have also seen on the web complete lower arms with the ball joint - there is obviously a call for them and may be because they can sometimes be a bi**h to get off. Other than Ian, Milners do them.
 

andyw

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I'm not sure if Toyota do just the joint, at least I couldn't see a part number on the EPC, but I did the bearings which were slack, but the cause of the noise looks like a split bush on the anti roll bar link, will order those and a joint from Milners next week.
 

Jon Wildsmith

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Toyota will only sell you a complete arm not just a joint even though they can be changed (not done one, just read about it and looked at them).
 

Andy Harvey

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Andy,

Possibly you are right, they certainly don't on some other vehicles that use a similar type of bottom arm - MR2 for instance, you can only buy the arm. I have seen them on eBay as just the joints so it is possible to do it but I think you may need to heat up the arm around the joint toremove it as I think it is fitted in a press.

{Admin edit - fixed the "Andy" for you :ugeek: }
 

warrenpfo

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In ordering the bits to do a front wheel bearing should i order from the oil seal all the way to the Grease cap leaving out the disk, hub, flange snap ring and grease cap? Or are there other bits i dont need?

On talking to toyota the chap said they reccomend replacing the whole front hub £300 with all the bits rather than just replacing the bearings. I am sure this was just his sales pitch and did not challenge him.

 

uHu

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Why do you need a new bearing? Is it burnt, corroded, broken or worn out?
Normally they keep a few 100 k km, just repack (re-grease) and tighten from time to time, say 30 k km is very good (unless watercrossing a lot).

What I have seen after doing mine a few times, and seeing a few more, is:
1
If there is a bit of play in the bearing, the inner seal (on your drawing above) will be leaking which leaves deposits on the back side of the brake disk. So if I find that there is more than the minimum detectable play, I would take the hub off and replace the oil seal.
2
Every 20 k km there is a need to tighten the bearing. Every 30 to 40 k km inspect and repack, and always change the inner seal.
3
The cone washers can be hard to get out. Brass drift and really BFH is the way to go.
(First time on my 2nd hand 2004, last autumn, they wouldnt let go until the pin bolts were shorter and thicker than originally. Somebody must have overtightened them. Luckily they are replacable, with a bit of heat to kill the locktight if not loose already.)
4
The tab locking the lock-washer to the spindel is a bit weak. Make sure to have a new one at hand. Take care when tightening the nuts, that the lock-washer is in place and doing it's job. Same thing goes for the claw washer. I have seen left side hubs come loose with the lock-washer tab smeared.
5
The flange gasket normally comes off in one piece, and can be reused. But you never know, and it's cheap.
6
The snap ring (C-clip) comes in several thicknesses. You have to check yours before ordering new. I have reused them about every second time.
7
Never replaced the cap.
 
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