Why do you need a new bearing? Is it burnt, corroded, broken or worn out?
Normally they keep a few 100 k km, just repack (re-grease) and tighten from time to time, say 30 k km is very good (unless watercrossing a lot).
What I have seen after doing mine a few times, and seeing a few more, is:
1
If there is a bit of play in the bearing, the inner seal (on your drawing above) will be leaking which leaves deposits on the back side of the brake disk. So if I find that there is more than the minimum detectable play, I would take the hub off and replace the oil seal.
2
Every 20 k km there is a need to tighten the bearing. Every 30 to 40 k km inspect and repack, and always change the inner seal.
3
The cone washers can be hard to get out. Brass drift and really BFH is the way to go.
(First time on my 2nd hand 2004, last autumn, they wouldnt let go until the pin bolts were shorter and thicker than originally. Somebody must have overtightened them. Luckily they are replacable, with a bit of heat to kill the locktight if not loose already.)
4
The tab locking the lock-washer to the spindel is a bit weak. Make sure to have a new one at hand. Take care when tightening the nuts, that the lock-washer is in place and doing it's job. Same thing goes for the claw washer. I have seen left side hubs come loose with the lock-washer tab smeared.
5
The flange gasket normally comes off in one piece, and can be reused. But you never know, and it's cheap.
6
The snap ring (C-clip) comes in several thicknesses. You have to check yours before ordering new. I have reused them about every second time.
7
Never replaced the cap.