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Handbrake dogbone/spacer

Lexie

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Joined
Dec 4, 2016
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great_britain
As we all know the poor handbrake on 80s iv read of the larger dogbone spacer upgrade. Can anyone point me in the direction or any tips much appriecated
 
Stan hasnt got any, I could use a set as well if anyone can help?
 
The OEM dog bones can be modded easily by adding a bit of weld to make them longer if you can’t get the new ones. Some on here have done that and it had the same effect.
 
Ad weld to small slotted side and file back to make it 74 mm long.

image.jpg
 
I completely rebuilt my handbrake,every component replaced, It doesn't have extended dogbones but it works very well.As you would expect a normal handbrake to work!
 
I completely rebuilt my handbrake,every component replaced, It doesn't have extended dogbones but it works very well.As you would expect a normal handbrake to work!

So did I, including the cable. It was brilliant and flew the inspection with ease however, after a few months it lost its bite. I did try to order modded dog bones but none were available.

Next inspection will be another adjustment to get through. It is the last thing on my mind at the moment with PM held up by delayed parts.

Regards

Dave
 
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Hi Dave, I replaced the cable as well.

Mine has stayed in adjustment for about a year this time.

I wish my current problems were as easy as a handbrake!
 
Hi to Brett and Dave.

Regarding a HZJ75 troopie...

I currently have my old cable almost removed but can't pull it through from above the fuel tank. Did you lower the tank to get yours out and, obviously, install the new one the same way?

I would really appreciate some advice here. And many thanks to Craige for the dogbone redesign. Great stuff. I will copy that soon, too.
 
I can't recall having to drop the tank for the handbrake cable, it was over 3 years ago today! Also mine was on an 80 series, no experience of working on a troopy I'm afraid.
 
I used these.

Changed disks & Shoes at the same time but not cable (probably should have done). Handbrake performance went from "non existent" to "Squeaks through the MOT and just about holds the truck and trailer" which is OK for now
 
This is on my to do list also. Anyone know other sources rather than australia? Many thanks
 
Aha. So Chris do you have some for sale?
 
Thanks Brett. For the sake of other readers who might encounter this problem, I lowered the tank slightly, and using string and wire was able to push/pull the cable through, but it took hours.
 
Benji Craddock may well have some..... if not he's into small runs of parts with his NBF range....
Also Julian Voekler could be a source....
 
I decided while rebuilding brakes on both my 90 series cruisers that the longer dogbone is an alternative to new disks rather than an upgrade . Theory being its unlikely the handbrake was a problem when these trucks were new (though i may be wrong?) and it takes forever for pads to wear out old rear disks hence they wear down on the inside instead against handbrake shoes .

Years later I will opt for new disks rather than a longer dogbone when I get to doing my 80 as well .
 
Yes Declan I do have some stock.
 
I decided while rebuilding brakes on both my 90 series cruisers that the longer dogbone is an alternative to new disks rather than an upgrade . Theory being its unlikely the handbrake was a problem when these trucks were new (though i may be wrong?) and it takes forever for pads to wear out old rear disks hence they wear down on the inside instead against handbrake shoes .

I thought this too on my 120. Might have kept them working ok for a week after the annual MOT adjustment, instead of the usual half-day.
 
The dog bones take up slack in the system, but not I'd suggest wear in the drum face. What they do moreover is change the alignment of the shoe inside the drum. This has all been explained before but in short, once any part of the show hits the drum, it feels like the brake is on. Well it it, but with only a tiny part of the show making contact. If you drove for 100 miles with the handbrake on, it would eventually machine the shoe to touch all of the drum. But then it would also be knackered. The longer bone re positions the shoe so that more of the friction lining touched the inside of the drum to begin with. Now quite whay all of this is necessary is one of those camp fire debates I'm afraid.
 
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