HDJ80 Blueprint CV joint

[Roy Duffy]

Hello

Does anyone have or know where I can get a blueprint CV joint for passenger side of 1996 Landcruiser. Im having problems finding a blue print one

Part number: ADT38928B

I broke a hdk one so am not keen to replace with the same.

Does anyone have experience of Shaftec or AMK joints? Are there any other CV joints that could be recomended. I do use front and back difflocks from time to time so require a strong sollution.

Thanks
Roy

 

[Gav Peter]

IIRC Karl used to have a few blueprint items Roy but that was a while back...

 

[Dave]

There's nothing special about Blueprint stuff.

 

[Chris]

Roy there just doesn't seem to be a decent mid priced option for CVs here in the UK. I bit the bullet on this build and bought genuine Toyota ones. I had HDK failure and it cost me dearly. There did used to be some better ones about I forget - Lezura, lorenza, lacruiser, lebamba? which were seemingly OK but they simply stopped being available. There is a gap in the market here for either rebuilding or re conditioning OEM ones. I have wondered about taking HDK innards and shoving them into an OEM CV. I just don't know the answer really. If Blueprint ones are any better than HDK I couldn't say but if they were the same price, I'd buy them if I needed any. I also wondered about buying the typical HDK type but having them specialist heat treated. I found the outer bell was a soft as chocolate and just ripped open. Something an OEM part wouldn't do. If that would work, we could buy a batch and have them done. The ball bearings in mine didn't seem to wear and neither did the birdcage particularly but there was a great deal of evidence of wear in the cup after very few miles.

We need a metallurgist to have a look at one. So what if they came out at £150 a piece? If they were good when they were done it would be worth it, no?

 

[Gav Peter]

I think mine are the iezura ones & yhey seem to be holding out quite well, touchwood!!!

 

[Dave2000]

FWIW I did replace one of my OE ones which was a little 'clicky', there is a pic on my MUD thread of the wear at around 190,000 miles! Kick me if you will but as I needed one on the quick a friend brought over one ordered from Milner's, now been in there around 40,000 ...ish miles and seemingly ok ish.........at the moment. As I have rusty balls....(age does that), I plan a strip out probably later in the year and am going to try coating the swivels with a heavy enamel paint, when I do I will probably replace both CV's with OE, it really does seem to be the way to go, if you have the coin and want longevity.

regards

Dave

 

[clivehorridge]

I've fitted US NitroGear chromoloys with shafts to match, but they've only been on for a few k's so it's certainly too early to comment.

They weren't cheap, but they were less than Mr T.

 

[warrenpfo]

I replaced mine with OEM only a few months back and so far all good. Not cheap but as mentioned the option out there a very limited.

 

[Geert]

In the past I have used original toyota shafts and HDK CV's. Not good. When you go offroading with diff locks....
Now I have full Longfield axles (US)CV's and shafts, I guess the same as the Nitrogears. The shafts can flex a lot. CV's are solid.
I have them for 35000kms now and still going great!
In my opinion this is the best way to go, if you go offroading a lot and have bigger wheels. Also cheaper then Toyota. But if you do more highway, Toyota is the best. Longfields don't last as long

 

[clivehorridge]

In the past I have used original toyota shafts and HDK CV's. Not good. When you go offroading with diff locks....
Now I have full Longfield axles (US)CV's and shafts, I guess the same as the Nitrogears. The shafts can flex a lot. CV's are solid.
I have them for 35000kms now and still going great!
In my opinion this is the best way to go, if you go offroading a lot and have bigger wheels. Also cheaper then Toyota. But if you do more highway, Toyota is the best. Longfields don't last as long

This is what I've heard Geert, and one of the reasons why I chose NitroGear Chromoloy.

My asphalt kms are relatively low (about 1,000 a month max) and I try to offroad at least one trip a week (averaging about 40-50 kms per week) so the ratio on/offroad might be higher than some (unless it's a dedicated offroader).

It's way too soon for me to know if it was a good choice or not, but I'm encouraged by your 35,000 kms so far

The previous CVs I used were some no-name and to be fair, they lasted over 130,000 kms, so I can't complain.

I'm using lockers and at times they've had a bit of a bashing. Actually, the failure was the shaft inside the CV where the inner race of the bearing seats. The shaft broke within the inner race casting and the movement displaced the inner race casting, releasing all the ball bearings. Bothe the inner race and outer "cup" of the CV were intact and in quite good condition, meaning little sign of wear.

I hope I get 100,000 kms out of these, I'll be happy with that, it will be close to the 8 years or so that the no-names achieved.

 

[Chris]

There's a fair few folk running HDK who say they've had no issues and I accept that completely. Thing is neither did I until this happened and it took my diff with it. Yes, I used mine off road. So rumbling round Tesco car park may well be completely fine for many miles. I can't say. But these had very few miles on them and only went off road once from memory in the snow. They let go on the way home. They seemed exceptionally soft to me and you could cut them with a hacksaw. I tried to cut an old OEM one and the saw just skidded off. Hence me suggesting that heat treating them might be the answer.

 

[clivehorridge]

Since you first posted it, I've had this photo in my LC folder Chris, as a reminder!

It even looks soft, if that makes any sense.

My no-names were hard too, couldn't scratch them with a saw-blade.

 

[Dave2000]

These things are always a compromise, very hard normally equals very brittle, soft equals lots of wear, using the correct materials and getting the hardening right is the answer, perhaps this is why Mr T' offerings are so expensive, they have done the R & D and want some money back for their pain? Bearing (no pun intended) in mind that my other OE CV is approaching 240,000 miles, and I am not renowned for being a delicate flower when off roading.

regards

Dave

 

[Mblinko]

I use RCV Chrome Moly CVs and shafts. Not cheap, but reputedly very strong. IMHO, £60 for a CV is way too cheap. It's going to be all nice and shiney and soft but not last. You wouldn't buy a soft ball bearing or race would you.

For a quality item, the engineering alone deserves a greater price, never mind the cost of the materials and heat treatment.

 

[Towpack]

A comparison can be drawn here with the OE lockers situation. Yes, the genuine article is expensive but it bolts straight on, works perfectly and with adequate protection will last years so is it really that expensive? As far as heat treatment of the cheap CV's goes, much will depend on the chemical composition of the alloy used. It may be possible to improve them to a degree but I doubt very much that OE quality/durabilty will be achieved. Other than the very occasional easy green lane I don't off road at all but if I ever have need of new CV's it will be OE without a moments hesitation. JMO

 

[Roy Duffy]

Thanks for all the great info there guys!!

 

[iceman]

The problem is the prices the OE cv for 94 onward is £749.50 plus per joint in UK, the pre 94 joint is approx £430 plus vat, whereas the RCV/Longfield (30 spline) would work out at about £350 per joint delivered (and including VAT).

I'm still undecided but the 94 onward cv in SA is far cheaper at approx £323 plus (SA vat) per joint (not delivered). What I can't understand is why the vast cost differential?

 

[Towpack]

The problem is the prices the OE cv for 94 onward is £749.50 plus per joint in UK, the pre 94 joint is approx £430 plus vat, whereas the RCV/Longfield (30 spline) would work out at about £350 per joint delivered (and including VAT).

I'm still undecided but the 94 onward cv in SA is far cheaper at approx £323 plus (SA vat) per joint (not delivered). What I can't understand is why the vast cost differential?

Dunno mate. Looking at part No.s on the EPC, if you order from overseas, an OE '94> cv works out at £243 inc the dreaded VAT and ID with carriage on top of that, maybe another £30 or so. Why is a front window rubber £110 inc VAT from a local dealer when you can get the same thing delivered to your door for £55 inc?

 

[Dave2000]

I wondered if the reason the 94 onwards is more expensive is perhaps due to the later joints simply being stronger? The larger wheels would exert additional leverage on the drivetrain, this may bring us back to the R & D costs mentioned earlier? Also the later versions are longer and Mr T made the flanges thicker, may have been related to earlier failures?

Just a thought.........

regards

Dave

 

[kingtom]

I wonder if it would be worth talking to ashcroft or quaife and see if they could develop anything. If there was a big enough demand for them they would probably be interested. Ive used ashcroft hardened shafts and cv on land rovers for years, they are great and the warrenty is second to non. They normally design things for heavy offroad use or raceing but the quality is great. Ive seen people running lS V8s flat out full difflock on from soft mud to hard ground full traction no bother.