Rear Axle/ Hub rebuild

[Chris]

I'd just jack one side up at a time. That helps the oil drain back to the diff rather than pour out of the hub when you pull each shaft out. I'd want to change the oil anyway but there's still only the need to work on one side at once.

 

[StarCruiser]

Good size blocks of wood can make good axle stands. It’s good to have the right kit but if you’ve got a pile of stout 6 x 3 timbers 18” long they are at least as stable as axle stands.

3 tonne stands should be fine. The easy up ratchet type are what I would go for but the pin type are perfectly good enough.

 

[Alex King]

Great thanks for the help guys, I've made a start but have run into a problem. The dowel pins aren't installed in the hub and I have no idea how to install them!

Any ideas? Can include pics if that helps

*Edit - Not sure if they're called dowel pins, its the 6 bolts that hold the wheel to the hub... (correct me if im wrong please)

 

[Alex King]

Forget that, Just realised they're called the Wheel Nut Bolts haha Just watched a couple of vids on how to install them but if anyone still has an easy way to do them let me know

 

[SeaJay]

this vid will give you some ideas

note you cant check the bearing play once the axle is installed, and it is a good idea to remove the axles and recheck the bearing tension after 1000km or so, also initially belting the tyre with a BFH then re-seting the bearings is a good idea. I tighten the bearings to 25ft-lb. If you are installing new wheel studs, which you just belt in from the back with a hammer, then also check your wheel nuts are still tight after driving for a few Km

 

[Alex King]

Thanks for the video that’s a nice tip

I’m not sure if I’m being stupid but have I been given an extra axle seal? I have two but I thought there’s just one that goes into the axle housing?

Also, would it be the smaller edge facing inwards on that seal? (Image attached)

 

[SeaJay]

the spring end faces inward (towards the diff). Yes you only use one, perhaps they supply two because its recommended to recheck the wheel bearing tension after 1000 to 3000km, and to do this you have to jack it up, leave the wheel on, and remove the axle from the hub and may need a new seal to go back in? just a guess

 

[Alex King]

Sweet thanks for the quick reply, do you grease the inner housing and seal before putting it in?

 

[SeaJay]

fill the area around the spring with hi temp wheel bearing grease as that will help stop the spring popping out when you slide the axle in, and yes put a bit of same grease on the inside lip and axle, but don't go overboard, just enough to lube it so your not pushing it in dry, and yes that sounds just like what your prob thinking

 

[Alex King]

Haha brilliant!

Okay I’ve put the hub on but it the inner part of the hub won’t sit flush (image attached) is that right?

 

[SeaJay]

I cant tell from that pic, but did the machined bit of the hub go inside the dust seal that's on the backing plate? if not did the hub come with the bearings installed? or did you have to install them?

 

[IRLGW]

Have you located the half shaft into the diff correctly? Sometimes you have to lift it a bit to angle it up for it to engage. could be that the shaft is sitting out too far.

 

[Chris]

The stub axle is stepped to accommodate the different sizes of the inner and outer bearing. Sometimes you have to lift, wiggle and push to get the rear hub seal to pop over the bearing seat area near the backing plate

 

[IRLGW]

As Chris so rightly points out...its time for the lump hammer

 

[Chris]

Errm did I say that? Well, it's worth a gentle whack.

On second thoughts, make sure you have greased the shiny stub axle bit that the bearings sit on and the seal face at the back. If that doesn't work, then try tapping it whilst jiggling.

 

[Alex King]

I managed to get it all on but for some reason I can’t get the retaining screw for the drum in place, I’ve rotated the drum every way possible but the holes won’t align, anyone had this issue before?

 

[IRLGW]

retaining screw for the drum? I would have thought the wheel nuts do the retaining maybe remove the drum and just make sure that there is somewhere for screws to go into. There are often threaded holes in drums that can be used to wind the drum off the shoes, but they don't hold it on. maybe post a pic.

 

[Alex King]

This is hole I’m referring to (images attached)

Here’s a link to the video I’ve been following -

57 seconds in you can see him removing the screw from the drum

 

[Chris]

I knew what you meant when you said it, but the 80 doesn't have those fitted. Not that I've ever seen. There's absolutely no need for them if you want to leave them off, but if they came out - they must go back in. There is a corresponding threaded hole in the hub flange, but if you have rotated the drum to each of the 6 stud positions and there's no matching hole then it's a mystery.

 

[IRLGW]

Surely that's the hole for adjusting the brake shoes?