How do I cure rust in rear wheel arches ??????

[Kieron]

Hi All
About six months ago I dropped my Beast off at the body shop to have the rear tail gate tidied up which they did an excellent job
But the two rear wheel arches at the bottom left hand side where all the crap collects wasn't such a good result. At first they looked very nice and then slowly the bubbling started again
The guy did say he couldn't guarantee the rust wouldn't return but I thought it would last longer than six months
Has anyone out there got the cure as this is the only area that lets the car down. It has lived a very sheltered life and as far as I know with little or no green leaning etc
So I throw it out there as I am sure it is a common problem
I know what the guys in the States would say " just cut it all out and leave it you don't need this area anyway !!!! "
Please help
Cheers Kieron in The Peak District

 

[Towpack]

Unless ALL the rust is either cut out or completely cured with some sort of rust converter it’ll be back. The first option is the best IMO but also the most difficult. Also make sure you’re not getting water building up inside from leaks which will rot the panel out from within. I often think a permanent drain hole would be a good idea so long as you don’t go wading.

 

[Shayne]

This stuff is supposed to be as good as hot dip galvanize http://www.zinga-uk.com/product-range/zingaspray

 

[Towpack]

I’ve used some of this stuff which looks similar. Still needs removal of rust back to clean metal though.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Action-C...hash=item4b00c8bf05:m:mlQsP8DaRYAtdw2S5Ftf2tg

 

[Kieron]

Hi all
Apparently he treated the rust prior to painting but did say that because of how the two layers of steel re joined it is impossible to get to between them if that make sense
He said the only cure would to be cut back into the steel u till good metal is found but leaving it difficult to fabricate a new piece to the insert and weld up
I'm sure that this is a very common problem I'm sure someone somewhere has made a pattern of a decent cut out

 

[Shayne]

This stuff will allow you to rinse off rust with a hose pipe http://mooneyboats.ie/shop/marine-chandlery/dychem-cleaning-products/super-limate-rust-remover and the Zinga stuff is supposed to stop rust in its tracks .
Not a perfect cure by any means but both are industry products your not likely to see on the shelf at Halfords or any place similar so worth investigating .

 

[StarCruiser]

That looks very much like Clensol Shayne. Good stuff but needs care no doubt. Not for the feint hearted.

Edit
I just looked the makers up, since I haven’t seen Clensol for a while. The site says the company has been ‘dissolved’. The irony …

 

[Shayne]

The Dychem stuff is expected to end up i harbours and marinas so yeah environmentally friendly , you can dip your hand in it no bother at all so long as you rinse it off with water because you do get a burning sensation after a couple of minutes . I and every fisherman i know use it like household bleach . It truly is amazing stuff i'm not sure if this video link will still work but

 

[Rodger]

Two panels that are sufficiently close to allow muck and water in is a real problem. We were faced with similar problems on our 40 and attacked those areas back in 2008 and the process we used still stands up today. It isn't easy and it takes time to do but it works.
Have a look at www.frost.co.uk - their two main rust proofing products are POR-15 and Eastwoods. We have used both depending upon the accessibility.
The 'art' is in the preparation, you must get as much of the muck out of the area as possible. Water and muck are getting in so there must be access points and with bubbling exterior paint then there are holes. Use scalpels, flexible knives. wire, anything that you can get in the access points and holes and worm out as much of the muck as you can, High pressure hose (water and air) into access points, dry it and do it all over again - several times until your not getting muck out. Eastwoods do a spray (Dinitrol), designed for inside box sections (the area I did with it is still coated and protected after 10 years), use that between the panels. Seal the edges with POR-15 - the paste is very good but you must apply the Metal Ready first.
Over the years on various restorations I have tried numerous products and these are the only ones that I've found that work but the preparation is of primary importance. If you leave muck and water in there then nothing is going to work.
Bodyshops do not have the time to work through the process and get paid for it.
I'm currently doing a similar area below the radiator, double skinned, spot welded - three days of preparation so far. But if you don't get as much of the muck out as possible then the rust will come back.
As our front grille is currently off the truck, I'll photograph the inside which has the support frame spot welded to the exterior panel and that was treated to this process ten years ago.

Regards,
Rodger

 

[Shayne]

Half way down this page there is a video link that works https://www.landcruiserclub.net/com...maintenance-today.129102/page-86#post-1224139

 

[flint]

+1 on POR15, but as said, careful preparation and application is the key. One tip with POR is not to open the tin as normal, but to put 2 self tappers in the base and just pour out what you need. What's left keeps longer.

 

[Rodger]

The photos show the inside of the front grille. They have not been cleaned or touched for 10 years other than a swill of water when I took the panel off the other day. Couple of bits where the POR needs touching up. the closer shot is where the inside of the grille panel sits against the support frame and is spot welded thus allowing water and muck in between, but not any more.
It is all about the preparation.
With POR we use the small tins and put a layer of clink film between the lid and can. Either Flint's way or ours works but if nothing then you'll never get it open again.

Regards,
Rodger

 

[PedroAraujo]

Two panels that are sufficiently close to allow muck and water in is a real problem. We were faced with similar problems on our 40 and attacked those areas back in 2008 and the process we used still stands up today. It isn't easy and it takes time to do but it works.
Have a look at www.frost.co.uk - their two main rust proofing products are POR-15 and Eastwoods. We have used both depending upon the accessibility.
The 'art' is in the preparation, you must get as much of the muck out of the area as possible. Water and muck are getting in so there must be access points and with bubbling exterior paint then there are holes. Use scalpels, flexible knives. wire, anything that you can get in the access points and holes and worm out as much of the muck as you can, High pressure hose (water and air) into access points, dry it and do it all over again - several times until your not getting muck out. Eastwoods do a spray (Dinitrol), designed for inside box sections (the area I did with it is still coated and protected after 10 years), use that between the panels. Seal the edges with POR-15 - the paste is very good but you must apply the Metal Ready first.
Over the years on various restorations I have tried numerous products and these are the only ones that I've found that work but the preparation is of primary importance. If you leave muck and water in there then nothing is going to work.
Bodyshops do not have the time to work through the process and get paid for it.
I'm currently doing a similar area below the radiator, double skinned, spot welded - three days of preparation so far. But if you don't get as much of the muck out as possible then the rust will come back.
As our front grille is currently off the truck, I'll photograph the inside which has the support frame spot welded to the exterior panel and that was treated to this process ten years ago.

Regards,
Rodger

Roger, 100% agree. I have used POR 15 products successfully in the past, it is all down to the preparation. Using degreaser and metal prep which contains some form of peroxide, removes all oxidation and leaves it ready for the rust proof paint.

I also found a product called ACF-50 penetrating oil used in the aviation industry, very good in stooping corrosion, but a tad expensive.

 

[Towpack]

I also found a product called ACF-50 penetrating oil used in the aviation industry, very good in stooping corrosion, but a tad expensive.

I use Corrosion Block which is also made by Lear Industries which make ACF50. It’s aimed at industrial machinery etc and is supposed to be more resilient to washout than ACF50. It’s also a dielectric and can be used on connectors etc. I use it everywhere and very pleased with it so far.

 

[Imran omar]

do this jet wash the area down as much as you can. while its wet spray FERTAN on it ... next day spray water over it (not jetwash pressure... normal garden hose pressure). I would personally do it twice. This thing is magic I tell u.

 

[Jensen]

Look MOT Check

 

[karl webster]

@Chris is this above spam

 

[Dave_S]

Re the OP - if you have any significant rust, the only answer is bite the bullet and get it cut out and re-welded. The various treatments will limit spread etc, but you can't turn rusted out metal to good with any chemical treatment, all you can do is stabilise and then cover up with filler or whatever. If you plan to keep the truck, do it properly and its done.

 

[Philip amos]

i had good outer wings bad inner but a similar problem my guy cut my outer wheel arch much to my shock but it worked see photos