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Hydraulic Crimping Tool Crimper

Yeah I've got one Gary, they do a good job in my experience, think I've got the 10-tonne one. I crimped all my big cables in my split battery conversion with no issue, and they've all held on tight ever since, no reason to think they'd loosen.

Definitely one of those tools it's useful to have in the workshop.

Owen
 
I have one too, got it off ebay I think. money well spent even if i never use it again (sure I will though) assuming @Rosy ever returns it... :)
Top Man Chris suggested/ advised i get one for doing my split charge gubbins.
 
Thanks Nick,

I don't think I be doing many connections, but be good to have for future projects and to easy pack away.

G
 
There's reviews on the 10 and 16 tonne ones at around the same price. TBH you don't need hydraulic ones for anything up to 50mm (manual ones here Iware Ratchet Crimping Hand Tool 6-50mm? Electrician Pliers Wire Cable Crimper Crimp https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01KX4Q952/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_DxynAbZKPBKW3 ) but they are probably a bit more compact than these or the longer handled manual ones for 70mm and a bit more. The smallest copper tube terminals you'll find in a Wholesalers is usually 10mm, you probably won't need bigger than 50mm anyway depending on the truck. Do beware though, not all copper tube terminals are made equal and can be very short and thin compared to good quality ones. A terminal manufacturer will always match their terminals with an appropriate crimp tool but if you're careful and check it's on tight and doesn't wobble about then you're likely to be fine with unmatched tooling.

Different size terminals are often needed for multi strand flexible wiring, in other words, it might be 50mm cable but a 50mm crimp may be too slack so may need crimping with a smaller die (if you see what I mean) or even using the next size down terminal. Lastly, to correctly crimp you should always crimp in two places along the tube leaving a 'hump' in between.

I've used the 16 tonne version. Can't remember if it had a 'click' to indicate the required crimp force had been reached but that's the mark of a good crimper, a ratchet effect if you like that stops you under crimping. Again, if you fully crimp the jaws together plus a pump or two it's stroke is going to be complete.
 
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Thanks StarCruiser, very much appreciated.

Is it something you would have in your truck as part of your tool kit. I wondering now if I would ever need it on the road. I have the smaller type already. If I don't keep it in the truck, then I go for the larger, cheaper type and store it in my workshop.

Thanks

G.
 
I personally would possibly carry it on my truck, but then I'm an electrician. I have the smaller manual up to 50mm one on board with a selection of crimps. I would say that for someone not engaged in electrical work, it's going to be useful once or twice for the jobs that need it then likely gather dust in the garage for years. Even I rarely use mine, probably no more than 10 times a year TBH, though this year it has had plenty of use on the truck's dual battery setup. After doing all the ends required, I wouldn't anticipate using it again on the truck unless and until I did a modification.
 
Can't say I'm a fan of dry crimps on anything personally. I always crimp and solder where possible. The telecoms industry moved away from crimps some years ago for reliability and went to IDC, but obviously not practical on mutistranded cable.
 
Towpack said:
Can't say I'm a fan of dry crimps on anything personally. I always crimp and solder where possible. The telecoms industry moved away from crimps some years ago for reliability and went to IDC, but obviously not practical on mutistranded cable.
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Would a high amp situation potentially melt solder?
 
If it was melting the solder i'd be more worried about everything else!
 
Me too Nick. Not sure if it does, just throwing it out there as the OEM cables dont seem to have solder and I cant think why not
 
You have to be careful with solder. If used correctly it is superb, however it is often used incorrectly. With a wire, wrapped around another and soldered, the joint is merely held by the solder and is good. Tinned (soldered ends) wires inserted into any form of compression connection will become loose over time due to the solder creeping (softening and moving) away from the connection. A dry crimped joint correctly applied will withstand variations in temperature, vibration and high current. Crimped connections are used with and without paste dependent on cable material and are type tested where crimp tool and copper tube terminal are used as a system. The type tests involve high current short circuits. I have personally witnessed such testing using cables made up with crimp terminals passing 38000A for 1 second. The type tests also include pull tests to attempt to pull the cable from the crimp which if carried out correctly forms a cold weld between the crimp terminal and the conductor. There is also a progressive lead in to the connection rather than the solidifying nature of a soldered joint which on larger cables helps them cope better with vibration and minimises fracturing as the cable enters the crimp compared to where it meets solder that has flowed up the conductor by capillary action and hardened it some distance from the joint.

Telecoms I would say standardised on IDC connection due to its vastly increased speed and reliable contact at low currents, combined with the ability to exclude moisture using gel within the crimps also increased reliability.
 
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