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Injector Swap

silvercruiser

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2010
Messages
3,368
Hello

Just thinking out loud really.

Do any of the Toyota Guru's know if you buy new injectors, can a home mechanic do the swap over or do you need the software to code them in?

Not that my injectors need doing im just thinking in the long term, if they needed doing, could i do them.
 
You need Techstream to re-code them, but you can buy a cable and the software for 20 quid. I think that's the least of your worries. Mine do needed doing. Likely to be having a go in the next couple of weeks.

Nice guide for how to do them here : Diesel Engine Service and Repair Shop | Baileys Diesel Group - [Leaving Land Cruiser Club]

I advising saving this. It disappeared for months, and seems to have got back on line very recently. I'm making a shopping list of washers and stuff that need to (or are a good idea) to replace with them.
 
Cheers Rob.

Il Have a look.

I would like to hear a 120 that has just had new injectors fitted drive out of the fitting centre from cold just to se e what the improvement is.

My 120 only sounds like a bag of bolts for the very first mile. after that its all good.
 
Cheers Rob.

Il Have a look.

I would like to hear a 120 that has just had new injectors fitted drive out of the fitting centre from cold just to se e what the improvement is.

My 120 only sounds like a bag of bolts for the very first mile. after that its all good.

I think mine sounds fine. But the fuel trims are beyond the limits of consensus on Prado Point and at the limit of what Toyota recon is duff. My concern is over-fueling a cylinder and cracking it with too much heat. I'm going to give it another go with Redex which seemed to sort it a few months ago this week. If it's still bad I'm going to have to do it before heading into deepest France next month.
 
Well my recon injectors have arrived from Specialist Diesel Services which means I'll be having a crack at this tomorrow.

Bit concerned they are supplied with evil copper washers! Fortunately I have some alu genuine Toyo washers to fit in their place. Think I'll use my genuine O rings too for what they're worth.
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Well fairly painless so far.

Intercooler off.
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Which reveals the caps of the incumbent injectors. You can then read their compensation codes and ensure Timmy Toyota didn't mix them up when your copper washers were done.
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The compensation codes can be read from the utilities option that shows up on the health check screen on Techstream.

Manual says to drain coolant and remove throttle body. Baileys guide doesn't mention this. So far the easy option is working although the rocker cover is tight against the throttle mount bracket.
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Fuel pipes need a 17mm spanner up top and a 17mm crows foot on the common rail.
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Manual says cover common rail ports with packing tape. The pipes leak diesel as you remove them so tape isn't going to stick. I tie-wrapped duct tape over them.
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All the injectors pulled out fine. The o-ring on #1 is mangled but no carbon on the bodies so they have been dealing fine. Interesting construction detail on the old aluminium washers though.
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Now got to clean up the seats and fit the new ones.

View attachment 103483 View attachment 103489
 
Toyota SST wooden dowel (15mm) with some lint free cloth soaked in brake cleaner. Clean all the injector ports.

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Fitting the injectors. I used rubber grease on the o-rings. Manual says engine oil. Baileys use fancy o-ring grease.
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Nothing special in assembly until I came to refit the rocker cover. Could not get it to fit over the two locating studs without removing this bracket that holds the throttle body.
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Hilariously, having fitted the rocker cover I couldn't get this to go back without removing one of the injector pipes. I don't think you'd have the problem if you took the throttle body off as the manual suggests, but that looked like too much work.

So all back together. Entered the compensation codes on Techstream.

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Crankex for about 15 seconds and started. Noticeably quieter than before. Fuel trims look good, this is just after startup.

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So so all good apart from when I looked in the engine bay and thought I had a fuel leak from an injector pipe.

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having taken the inter cooler off again an nipped up the nut it made no difference. Then twigged it wasn't diesel but oil. I'd missed putting one of the rubber nozzle seals into the rocket cover. Intercooler off again! Pipe off again and fitted it.

Seems all good now. Will be keeping an eye on the oil for a bit for any signs of a leak in the leak off rail, or leaking washer.
 
Rob watch the fuel pipes. I had a issue with mine where the first one (front one) started leaking. I can only attribute this to when the dealer had the 120 back in for the injector seal recall. I seem to think that these are a one use item, and when looking at my old ones they certainly were the originals as you could see the spanner marks on them.
 
Rob watch the fuel pipes. I had a issue with mine where the first one (front one) started leaking. I can only attribute this to when the dealer had the 120 back in for the injector seal recall. I seem to think that these are a one use item, and when looking at my old ones they certainly were the originals as you could see the spanner marks on them.

Thanks Tony. Was it the pipe itself or the joint to the injector or common rail that leaked? Consensus on PradoPoint is that you can reuse them but you have to be very careful not to twist or bend them at all. Wouldn't be too big a job to change them now but I'll keep an eye on them.
 
I don't know, as got Toyota to change them all for me, but I think it was the joint.
 
Little update from this morning. I ran the active fuel leak test. This ups the fuel pressure from about 4000psi to about 20000psi. And immediately threw a fuel leak error! Was spraying from one of the joints onto the common rail. I nipped them all up to the torque spec again. Being warm I suspect they all went a bit tighter. And as we speak, fingers crossed no more leaks.

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Nice catch Rob, I'm assuming techstream is not cheap?
 
It was under 20 quid for the software and the cable from ebay. It wants to work on 32bit Windows but I got to work on a newer 64bit machine eventually. If you have common rail injectors I think it's worth it just for checking how worn they are. I scared myself looking at the tales of woe on Pradopoint from people with old injectors.

Been out for a run now. I didn't think mine was noisy before but noticeably quieter. What I really notice is that the engine doesn't vibrate the car when stopped in drive. I looked at the engine wobbling on tick over a couple of weeks ago and thought I'd have to get new engine mounts. That has totally stopped. Very happy thus far. I'm going to drain the oil in a couple of weeks, even though I only did it last month so I can check the oil pickup in the sump with my USB boroscope for clogging through fumes in the oil. It'll be trapsing round Europe for a few weeks after that so I don't want to find problems then.
 
Thanks for the pics and write up Rob. i might be being blind or thick. where can i see the values of the injector trim?
 
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Thanks for the pics and write up Rob. i might be being blind or thick. where can i see the values of the injector trim?

Sorry. Injector feedback. Fuel trims might be a petrol term. It's what they're called on my petrol Jimny anyway. Ideally they should be within +/-3 when warm. Two of mine were between 4.5 and 5.0 which is not good. Now within +/- 1.0
 
Just because I had to look this thread up again and noticed it doesn't list the bits you really want to change with the injectors. Have to credit Sirdread from "the other forum" who did the job before me and gave me the list.

I would suggest you could probably reuse the nozzle seals without issue, but if you are buying this lot from somewhere like Amayama it's going to add less than a tenner onto what is a fairly pricey job for everything else by the time you have replacement injectors. Everything else here you definitely want to be replacing as part of the job.

090904-30013 Gasket x 5 (These are the rail crush washers, you dont need the rail)
011213-30021 Gasket x 1 (Rocker cover gasket)
023681-30010 Nozzle seal x 4 (Rocker cover seal for injector)
011176-30011 Injector seal x 4 (These are the new type not the old copper version that leaked)
096721-19017 Seal x 4 (Sealing ring that is placed on the injector about 1/3 way up)
090209-10021 Washer x 4 (Crush washer for injector clamp)
 
I feel an 'injector job' coming up after having the seats replaced rather expensively by a rather incompetent garage. Time to have a go myself now that I have the Techstream software. Thanks Rob for the breakdown of what I need.
 
Has anyone used Baileys in Australia to supply injectors ? or acquired them from China, Japan or Thailand ?
 
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