Is it OK to buy LC 100 with rust in the axles

Thiru

New Member
I am in united_states
Dec 9, 2016
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5
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Hello all,

I am in the market for an LC 100 and I have found a 2005 LC with 136000 miles on it. It runs great and no accident so far (per Carfax) but I noticed quite a bit of rust in behind the wheels on the axles. (photos attached). What I am not sure is - how much serious these rust problems are in a LC 100 and should I buy or stay away from this vehicle.

Please advise.

Thanks a lot and your expertise advice will mean a lot to me.

Best
Thiru

IMG_0860.JPG IMG_0859.JPG IMG_0863.JPG IMG_0862.JPG
 

StarCruiser

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Oct 7, 2014
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Hi Thiru and welcome. TBH, for me anyway, that doesn't look too bad. Here in the UK there can be far more corrosion than that. I would have thought there's not much more than surface rust there. I've just had my 80 treated with Krown that reckons to stop rust in its tracks. If I were you and I bought that truck I'd take it straight to be coated and if everything else checked out I wouldn't be worrying.

See what the others on here say but that doesn't look like a deal breaker to me. Especially if that's the worst area.

You've come to the right place for advice anyway. We're a real friendly helpful bunch on here.

Best wishes
Richard
 

uHu

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Mar 7, 2010
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You'll probably find worse rust under the floor at the back, and at the bottom of the rear lift-gate.
But, as long as it is surface rust only, it helps a lot to get it thoroughly soaked in Fluid Film or Krown. That will nearly stop further development. Do an anual treatment.
Brake lines will be the first to go because of rust, so have them checked and replaced according to findings.
 
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chapel gate

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I am in england
May 26, 2014
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near, leek staffs.
Its good practice to look at a fair few, that way you will know if this one has an unusual amount of rust, or its pretty normal, or its rather good..
 

fittus

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I am in austria
Jun 18, 2016
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Hello Thiru,

what i see on your pictures is a normal corrosion. It looks not so bad!

In countries where salt or salt lye is used on streets in the winter season you have an enormous corrosion, as shown in the attached picture. The picture was made 4 years later after buying a LC 100 in October 2006. Unfortunately Toyota has nothing done or heard from underbody protection. Same was by my fomer LC80 models.

I recommend a restoration of the underbody , if you plan to use the LC100 for a lot of years. Attached are also pictures of a restoration by myself, realised this year. If you will do this really correct, it is a hard work or when you will made this by a qualified company you have to pay approx. 4.000-5.000 Euros (in Germany, Austria, Switzerland), depending of the state of corrosion.

I have applied after a complex manual and chemical rust removal three layers of a color used in shipbuilding. Additional i finished with a complete layer of a special wax, which is transparent after drying. Of course i have treated also the hollow spaces e.g. in the chassis.

This protecion will hold approx. 5-6 years in a corrosive environment, on condition that minimal damages will be repaired after two years.

FS

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SafariTecPeter

Well-Known Member
I am in norway
Apr 29, 2016
458
63
28
The LC100 never had axles in the first place......... as such

It has 1 axle, 1 solid rear axle
The front consists of upper & lower control arms spaced out with a knuckle holding the wheel bearing through where the drive shafts turn the wheels

If corrosion on upper& lower control arms are of consern (which it should) You should either replace them or have them treated.
As it is an `05, it should not be among those with faulty welds on the lower control arm...
 

Aguirre

Active Member
Apr 28, 2011
97
6
18
Northern Scotland
Hello Thiru,

what i see on your pictures is a normal corrosion. It looks not so bad!

In countries where salt or salt lye is used on streets in the winter season you have an enormous corrosion, as shown in the attached picture. The picture was made 4 years later after buying a LC 100 in October 2006. Unfortunately Toyota has nothing done or heard from underbody protection. Same was by my fomer LC80 models.

I recommend a restoration of the underbody , if you plan to use the LC100 for a lot of years. Attached are also pictures of a restoration by myself, realised this year. If you will do this really correct, it is a hard work or when you will made this by a qualified company you have to pay approx. 4.000-5.000 Euros (in Germany, Austria, Switzerland), depending of the state of corrosion.

I have applied after a complex manual and chemical rust removal three layers of a color used in shipbuilding. Additional i finished with a complete layer of a special wax, which is transparent after drying. Of course i have treated also the hollow spaces e.g. in the chassis.

This protecion will hold approx. 5-6 years in a corrosive environment, on condition that minimal damages will be repaired after two years.

FS

View attachment 110352 View attachment 110353 View attachment 110354 View attachment 110355 View attachment 110356
wow, that's surprising. even my scottish 100 is fresher underneath than that and its 03 with 200k on it.
looks fantastic after the underseal!
 

Aguirre

Active Member
Apr 28, 2011
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18
Northern Scotland
in reply to op's corncerns: in my eyes that is very catchable. get in there with a wirebrush and get that surface rust down to bare metal then rust treat it, red primer and some por15
 

SafariTecPeter

Well-Known Member
I am in norway
Apr 29, 2016
458
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The whole "undercarridge treatment" story is a big can of worms

If time & money was of no conserne, I`d strip down the LC frame & have it galvanized.
Same applies to a number of bolt un parts in the undercarridge.
Unfortunately thats easier said than done.
On the surfaces one can reach, the wire brush is a solution for the loose scaling.
The reat can be chemically treated. I prefer Fertan.
If I ever was to blast acar underneight that is not COMPLETELY dismanteled, I will only was it blasted with dry ice.

This comming week I will take a LC100 back to a company that "rust treated" an J10.
It was sand blasted & the grit is ALL OVER, has not been removed upon completion. A year has gone by now... It will be highly interesting to see how they adress this.
It is not the first car I have seen "destroyed" by poor blasting.... Not to mention what is does to seals, mechanical compounds etc etc...

Edit, Typo(s)
 
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SafariTecPeter

Well-Known Member
I am in norway
Apr 29, 2016
458
63
28
@Rarf; So You are doing this on a commercial basis in Lithuania?

In the link You have provided I see some very questionable work being carried out.
Sandblasting frame with axle, brakes, engine & gearboxes apparently not removed nor covered up is not to my liking.
& btw; The frame did not look too bad to start off with.

For how many years had the car undergone periodical KROWN treatment?
 
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SafariTecPeter

Well-Known Member
I am in norway
Apr 29, 2016
458
63
28
Correct Frank.
& one still must most likely cut open box frame sections to get to the worst places in order to either repair or replace the damaged areas. Rust is the same as cancer. No bandaid will cure it :-(
Anyone who has looked extensively as fi Toyo J6 frame knows what I am on about.
 

Shayne

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Feb 2, 2013
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An idle couple of weeks have had me speculating why nobody seems to offer an acid bath and cold dip galvanize service , if i could get Zinga inside the frame it scores points over hot dip because the danger of warping is removed and you can paint over it .
 

SafariTecPeter

Well-Known Member
I am in norway
Apr 29, 2016
458
63
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Shayne; Well You have UK based fabricators making new frames for Land Rovers that are dipped & galvanized.
Any possible warping can be rectified.

I have a company close to me that do galvanisation. They will galvanize a frame for me in the very near future.
I struggle tu understand why You feel this can`t be done o_O as other have done it for years.
Look at stuff like Ifor Williams fi:sunglasses:
 
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