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Is there a CV joint test

Shayne

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Feb 2, 2013
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Must i get the spanners out just to look at the CV ?

There's been a mild pull to the left on steering for a while which is gradually getting worse which had me reading all the steering box posts so i have some idea when i get around to looking at it , but lately the 80 has developed a loud clunk manoeuvring at full lock and perhaps occasionally while braking .

Can't see any external reason but cant hear any clicking either , first time i heard it my minds eye pictured a brake caliper held on with bolts far too small in diameter so it banged against its mount when engaged , offered in the hope someone might recognize the symptoms ?
 
I'd jack the front wheel up before anything and check for wheel bearing play.
 
All cars pull to the left due to the road camber. Some more than others . That's why if you have a stroke or heart attack you end up in the ditch, that is if the road is straight. My 80 was getting worse but the tyres were badly worn. Now it's got 4 new rubbers it's a lot better. A thump would not be a cvj
There's a flat private road near me with a good camber. I drive down one side on the left and then turn round and drive down the same stretch of tarmac on the wrong side of the road. This is to test that my steering wheel is centred correctly. Steering wheel should be off centre equally in both tests. Nearly all my 80 mileage is done in Spain these days. She pulls slightly to the right accompanied by slight scrubbing on outside of the drivers side tyre. In UK the opposite occurs.
 
Could the steering pump make noises similar to a mud tyre catching the bumper ?
 
When the power steering pump was shot on my 12v original motor, it made a similar noise of "like a mud tyre on the bumper end cap" but you would feel the steering wheel is notchy with the sound.
 
Thanks iwan , just discussing my difficulty in describing the noise with the mrs who says a rubbing tyre is machine gun sound :icon-rolleyes: and then she comes out with "like a ball joint that jams and jumps out" :icon-surprised:

She has better hearing than me but how the hell does she know what a ball joint is :icon-confused:
 
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When I first read this thread when you posted it. I was going to suggest to check the propshafts. My 81 with a f'ed front prop uj would click when you engage the clutch. But my 71 with a f'ed rear prop uj was feeling like it was on a corrugated road, had just fitted the new tyres and thought that my tyres were scrubbing. front to rear alignment.. a quick shake of the rear prop when I had time at the weekend and it was apparent what the issue was..

Check your prop uj's... possibly your issue.
 
I’ve got a similar thump. Pulling out of junctions (left or right) results in clunk. i like to think it is suspension rubbers somewhere, though it could be xfer box. Don’t think it is cvs as I think they just click a lot firstly when diff locks are on and later on as things wear more, when navigating normal roads without traction aids. I’ve only a 2” lift so I wouldn’t think it’s UJs. I’ll find out in a couple of weeks when I start looking in earnest.
 
I wondered about the UJ's and some grease might have reduced the noise some but i can't figure how steering to the stops relates ,
 
I’ve never experienced badly worn UJs on any car, but I’d have thought they would clunk a lot e.g. every time slack is introduced and removed on a gear change. Not sure, maybe someone with greater experience can help
 
Shayne, could this be related to the swivel hubs at all? Having the top cap at the correct drag is important and affects steering bias. So does the condition of the swivel bearings. And of course so do the bottom arm bolts which have a propensity to snap and fall out. CVs are unlikely to be the cause of clunkiness and steering drag in my experience
 
I did several thousand miles after lift and caster correction no problems at all , and theres no missing or broken bolts .

Steering damper and is it the tie rod offer little resistance to a hand rattle , if i could just get somebody to turn the steering wheel while i'm under it i might have a clue .
 
Nothing wrong with the wheel bearings and because i wasted a few hours today finding that out swambo took it to work and actually listened with her much better ears than mine and her text just said "its not the wheels its in the middle when your going right or decelerating , under her feet but over her shoulder" :crazy:

Now hoping its a UJ
 
My steering pulls slightly to the left but that's on roads with reasonable camber for drainage etc. Plus the tyres are a little oddly worn from knackered LCA bushes that I have since replaced. Could a rotation if you've got some more decent wheels on the back and alignment help?
 
Tyres are 2 years old and have done maybe 5000 miles
 
The CV test I know of is engage the CDL, and creep forwards and backwards on full lock.

If you hear a low tone loud clank-clank-clank there f**ked, if they’re silent they’re good and anything in between means about 6 months left in them.
 
It almost saddens me to say thanks for that Clive because while i plan to fit new UJ's tomorrow i also expect to fail that test .
 
The CV test I know of is engage the CDL, and creep forwards and backwards on full lock.

If you hear a low tone loud clank-clank-clank there f**ked, if they’re silent they’re good and anything in between means about 6 months left in them.

Failed that test , its the passenger side and might explain the intermittent ABS light as well , inner voice is telling me to look for genuine Toyota but given its definitely been a problem for maybe a thousand miles if the ABS light is anything to go by who thinks i might be best off with this kit ?

ODM Outer CV Joint LC 80 Series WITH ABS (04/1994-ON) - [Leaving Land Cruiser Club]

It's not a job i've done before so any dos and don'ts i should know about ?
 
Shayne - depends what you're doing with it I guess - if I was doing heavy offroad/overland I would go genuine, but for us the 80 is used predominantly on the road, so we got a similar kit to the one you mention, but from Milners including HDK CVs - these have been on for 4 years now, with no issue.
 
Thanks Dave , I can't find genuine anyway and from what i can gather from web search Toyota makes them from diamonds and prices them accordingly so the RT kit will do me .
 
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