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JB's spots/fogs/driving lamps

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JB, Clive gave you a nice description there. But I ask this question
out of total ignorance Clive. If you splice into the dip feed to the
headlamp to operate the relay, will the polarity of the new loop have
to be switched? Are the lamp feeds to later 80's than my '92 (like
JB's) also negative with a common positive? In fact the reverse to
most other vehicles where the switched feed is usually positive?
You will recall my little hiatus in recent times where our Oz friends
helped me out with my headlamps. When I finally realised that the
main switched feed to each filament was negative (Haynes does not
have a wiring diagram for an 80) , I then started to make progress -
even though I had failed to see those odd contact switching adaptor
wafer blocks in the lamp connecting block <:-|
Let's not turn JB's brown eyes into blue sparklers ! Or his loom into
burnt spaghetti. But I might be totally wrong of course.
Cheers
Jon
'92 HZJ80 ex UN Bosnia surplus
 
Jon
When I rewired mine (1996) I found that the switched feed to both main
and dipped beams is positive, with earth from the bulb base connectors
being taken straight to the chassis. All very straightforward and
normal, unlike yours.
I think is must be Oz / US (and maybe earlier 1HZ?) setup that has the
weird -ve switching.
Christopher Bell
|
| JB, Clive gave you a nice description there. But I ask this
| question out of total ignorance Clive. If you splice into the
| dip feed to the headlamp to operate the relay, will the
| polarity of the new loop have to be switched? Are the lamp
| feeds to later 80's than my '92 (like
| JB's) also negative with a common positive? In fact the
| reverse to most other vehicles where the switched feed is
| usually positive?
|
| You will recall my little hiatus in recent times where our Oz
| friends helped me out with my headlamps. When I finally
| realised that the main switched feed to each filament was
| negative (Haynes does not have a wiring diagram for an 80) ,
| I then started to make progress - even though I had failed to
| see those odd contact switching adaptor wafer blocks in the
| lamp connecting block <:-|
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Jon,
My 97 import is what I will call standard, the positive is the
feed. I know there was major mods to the 80 after 92, maybe this was
one of them.
Regards, Clive.
 
Thanks to Chris and Clive for reassuring me that my 80's wiring is
totally butt about face compared with normal cruisers. (I see JB kept
unusually quiet, but perhaps he could see me digging myself a nice
little hole!)
Same thing with the wheels. Last time I had a puncture repaired in UK
I got a hell of an ear bending cos my rims 'aren't normal' according
to the tyre man. Apparently its rare - unknown in UK - to have split
rims like mine, but they are a military spec fitting to allow them to
run flat - unlike a well based rim - when needs must.
Though I can't see why the wiring with negative switching should be
any different. But hey, it works, well it does now anyway! Thanks.
Cheers
Jon
'92 HZJ80 ex UN Bosnia surplus
 
Jon,
Is it only your lights or is the whole vehicle positive earth. I
ask as there was a period in UK motoring history, about 35/40 years
ago, when positive earth was used. Apparantly it is better than
negative earth. You do get more corrosion around the positive terminal
(as we are all aware, or should be.) and it caused a problem with
chassis corrosion on cars. At the time, can't comment about now,
aircraft used positive earth as they were prepared to pay for the
chassis work to be treated against the corrosion at manufacture. Car
manufacturers of course went back to negative earth.
Regards, Clive.
 
Clive asked...
Is it only your lights or is the whole vehicle positive earth.
SNIP
Clive, thankfully no. It just appears that the switching for the
headlamps is done this way, though quite unusual when the rest of the
car is switched on the positive feed. I am not sure, but it appears
peculiar to those 80 models supplied in Australasia/S.E.Asia which
have the four separate rectangular headlamps. You can read a hint
about it in the 80scool technical pages where Ian B shows how to
modify the headlamp wiring. Unfortunately I do not have a wiring
diagram as Haynes does not have one. When I am rich and famous I will
try and get a better manual. If I find another negative switched
circuit, you will be the first to know ;-)
Wasn't the positive earth system the cause of mini subframe corrosion?
Cheers
Jon
'92 HZJ80 ex UN Bosnia surplus
 
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|
| Wasn't the positive earth system the cause of mini subframe corrosion?
I think you right. They were also the source of major embarrassment to
people like me who offered to jump-start student friends' minis back in
the late 70s, and who connected the -ve lead to the chassis ....
Christopher Bell
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