Don't like the adverts?  Click here to remove them

LC 100 Manual 2004 UK spec

Neil Hicking

New Member
Joined
Jun 13, 2013
Messages
30
Hi Guys,
any words of wisdom about fitting a new clutch to my MANUAL 2004 100 series? Just a hint of clutch slip when I have the Ifor W with a load behind me. Apart from take to a garage of course! Big job, shit job, don't attempt?? Any ideas of cost for parts and time needed, so I can get an idea of whether I am being ripped off or not. Also anything else that should be changed "while doing the job"? Fit genuine parts only? I've done 115K miles, should it last longer than this?
Any thoughts most welcome.
Neil
 
not to bad a job, it takes a bit of time to do and the gearbox is very heavy. i would buy a good make of clutch, i have seen clutches fitted that judder from day one and this can be very annoying. make sure the fly wheel is smooth and flat on the face as this will make it judder to. i would also change the nose bearing in the center of the flywheel, this dose not come with a clutch kit. as for how long it will last it depends what you are asking it to do. i saw a shogun in a quarry that had got 3 clutches before 70000 mile and a amazon that got it's first clutch at 265000 mile. as for price look up the parts on milner off road or other japanese parts web sites it will give you a guide price. one man could spend 6 to 7 hours on this job this is only a guide as it depends on the conditions he has, a ramp or a pit or on the floor changes things a lot.
 
Lots of stories on the 80 section on people having to do the job twice due to poor clutches from various makes except Toyota.
 
except Toyota, and Excedy, and Valeo, and Aisin

It's a big heavy job. If you do it yourself then split the transfer box off first and get some help. But if you can find a garage that will do it for about £600 all in with branded clutch then I'd say it was money well spent. Thing is that garages know how to change a clutch. What they aren't so good at in my experience is putting back all the bits of trim and suchlike with all the right screws. It's fiddly and boring. I have taken an 80 box out and clutch on my own. Much easier when you do it for the second time. But for £300 in labour, I know what I'd do next time.
 
What was the make of your failed clutch Chris or was an unbranded Milners ?
 
Don't like the adverts?  Click here to remove them
I think Aisin is genuine Toyota as that was the name stamped on the clutch that came from Toyota in their branded box, albeit for my 80. I changed the rear crank oil seal as well while the box was off.
 
Frank I can confidently tell you that it was neither Toyota, and Excedy, Valeo, or Aisin
 
I've often thought what I would do if my clutch failed but it's such a big job I think I would feel safest fitting a genuine Toyota one. I know if there was a problem my Toyota dealer would take a faulty clutch back no questions asked whereas another supplier may not be as helpful. I've often thought of trying to get a clutch made by the same supplier to Toyota but then again they could make a clutch to any standard asked for and such a clutch may not be as good as that supplied to Toyota. I have the original 80 clutch which has done 148,000 miles ish. My 1989 Audi Coupe clutch was still OK when I sold the car at 240,000 miles on the clock.
 
It's not such a big job in terms of complexity or special ability. It's just very heavy. If you have a ramp and jacks it actually a breeze. My local place had the whole thing out and on the floor in 1hr and 15. It was amazing. But lying on my back with the box on my chest I started having severe doubts.
 
Yes and it's a bit frightening lying underneath and trying to pull it free of the bell housing. I found the starter to be held in by 1 bolt and one stud. It's best to try and undo the stud with 2 locknuts first as it jambs things up. If not at least take it off before putting the box back on the bell housing.
 
If you are doing it on your own with the Truck raised a foot in the air time spent modifying the trolley jack plate to have tabs welded on to cradle the gearbox will be time well spent and make the job infinitely safer. I've done 2 on my own and the second one was a bloody sight easier and safer when I modified the jack as so:-
IMG_0820_zps258d9160.jpg

This allows the gearbox to be safely handled by one person, at the right angle to be placed straight into the clutch and into bolting position in less than 5 mins. ( you've only got to have one gearbox roll off a trolley jack to be convinced this is the only way)
 
I had to rotate my gearbox about 90 degree clockwise looking from the rear before it would come out.
 
Back
Top