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LC 90 KZTE non-runner

Not a good idea applying 12 volt to that solenoid, especially for more than a few seconds. That valve doesn't use anything more than 5 volts which the ECU controls, in a pulsation fashion. I kinda doubt the ECU would give up, they're generally pretty reliable but few have had caps pop and cause issues. To eliminate the ECU board, just remove it (behind the glovebox) and check the board.

It could be something else, but I'd say from what you've described so far that the solenoid is failing. Also, when you crank the engine does the tach register the RPM, it should be about 200-250. If not then the RPM sensor on the top of the pump has failed and THIS is also needed in order to start.

Regarding immobilizer, I can't be 100% sure but on the VAG cars, a wrong key/ not matched immobilizer will initially start the car and then turn off after a second or so. I would think maybe the cruiser would do something similar.
 
Hi Beau

That "adding" astranged voltage to bespoke solenoid aint ideal, I know. Hence why I wrote the engine can run off.....It was done mainly to test & see it it runs. Whuch it did.
A new / replacement pump from an engine I gave my buddy a year ago has now been retrieved & ready to move on into his Cruiser.

"looking at the ECU" itself I am afarind aint cutting the cheese...
Still open is the diagnostics that would tell us if th Immob is activated for wahtever reason. Working around THAT will inturn beanother challange...
As for the RP conter, I`d have to ask. I has/am as said several hours away

You are correct on the VAG-bit. I have experinced the same. Ca`t say if thr Toyo`s work the same way....
 
I believe the immobilizer unit for these trucks are behind the stereo tucked away. Not hard to get too, so worse case scenario you could just unplug it and that will tell you for sure if it's an immobilizer problem. Also check the grounds. I believe on the drivers side (fuse panel side) there are a bunch of grounds there on the firewall, one I think is immobilizer related for the alarm system.
 
On another LHD I toyed around with, it was unfar from the engine ECU. Got hold of it through the glow compartment. Have yet to see it behind the stereo IIRC

I`ll let You all know once I get some more feedback :)
 
Jury is back, The verdict is out.

Finally sorted out the diagnostic which produced a "33" Code.. -> Intake constrictor control signal.
Which took me here https://www.toyotaguru.us/hilux-1kz-te-repair/components-ton.html
It is POSSIBLE that this is due to poor vacuum hoses... but I am not holding my breath.
Spares are available, so my buddy needs to get cracking :)
So for now we aint messing around any further with the pump....
 
hmm doubt its that but could be wrong. I have all that stuff off on my truck as I don't need them anymore as both butterfly valves are off.
 
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& how have You tricked these input signals going into the ECU then BEAU?

Fpr whatever reason, the mentioned code is the only code being thrown out by the ECU diagnostics.....
 
There are three sensors/vacuum actuators at the back of the engine. They work to control the small butterfly to open close on engine shut down and start up. They also work with the EGR valve to operate when to recirculate the engine gases. I'm not sure which one it is, but one out of the three are needed to be plugged in to not throw the check engine light. The other two can be ditched and vacuum lines can be blocked. You can just unplug them one at a time and see for yourself when the check engine light comes on.
 
Could it be that the venturi butterfly is simply clogged up with crap and stuck ?

I left all the electrics alone when i blocked my egr and removed the large butterfly , removing the smaller one has been on the to do list forever but i don't expect removing it will make much difference
 
I don`t know Shayne.....
I will venture down the route You are desribing sometime this autumn once I (famouse last words...) get around to wrench my own crap...

With reference to my buddies sick LC; I guided him through the diagnosis & the car keeps throwing up the same fault according to ECU. He did start it againg with bespoke method (again; Not overly recommended but when in need...) with applying current to the bespoke solenoid allowed the car to start up again but it was running very very rough & spluttery he said. Don`t know the RPM range....Sorry...
We felt compelled to try a different ECU.. & ordered one from the breakers on Friday. Should be with him tomorrow....
Fingers X`d...
The whole thing is abit of a PITA, I too am sitting miles away & can only pass on whats being said to me :)

I`ll update accordingly
 
Maybe you missed what i'm saying Peter ?

which is the butterfly itself can cause a blocked intake , perhaps by putting power directly to the solenoid your preventing the ecu from recognizing the problem ?
 
Sort of Shayne

I did ask im to check
That being said, intitially when the problem occured, we where not ble to get diesel to the incetors when crancking. Undid the "banjos" ontop of the injectors.

I cant quite se how this has to do with restricted air inlet...

To me, for some reason the ECU is not letting fuel through the pump & out to the injectors. Hence the fuel starvation & sudden death
 
The saga continiouses
Unfortunately not for the better

A new 2.nd Hand ECU was sourced & fitted. It did not change much
The engine intitially fired but ran rough, Now not even that is happening....
The enigne is simply not letting fuel through to the injectors.... so that it now doesn`t fore is sort of understandably.
I have been asked to haul it to my workshop onthe back of my flatbed trailer... It`s a full day on the road for me so I need to carve out those houers in a tight enough schedule.

So Guys;
The way the thing sits now; Not running, "new" Ecu, no fuel to the injectors. No faults produced by either ECU (new and old) but thats naturally understandably as the thing isn`t running.
So what to do? Yank it into the workshop & replace the fuel pump??
Thoughts please :)
 
Fuel pump will most likely solve the problem. You could test the resistance of the spill control valve and see if it's between 1-2 ohms. You still haven't said if it's registering RPM when the starter turns over the motor, this will prove the RPM sensor (white plug on top of pump) is working. A spill control valve is cheaper and possibly easier to replace than the entire pump. But replacing the pump may be a overall cheaper option depending if you can source one.
 
Thanks BEAU
I will have the resistance measured just to have a comparison value.
RPM; True, I have asked for this info & is has yet to come to me.
EDIT-> The RPM is "operational" I have been told

Between my buddy & I we have 2-3 KZTE engines sitting on pallets, so a replacement (relative low milage) pump from an engine I knew ran untill I lifted it out of its LC is indeed available :)

An alternative LC may be on its way to my buddy...... having 3 kids, no truck to tow at the end of boating season ++ is taking its toll in the poor fella...

I`ll keep on posting untill a final conclusin has been found :)
 
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Spill valve fitted -> 0,3Ohm
Spill valve in spare pump -> 1,7Ohm

So based on BEAU`s figures, the on fitted to the car is fryed.
Will likely be replaced today or tomorrow....

Then one will see........
 
Looks that way. As you have the spare pumps, it's probably best to swap the entire pump around, and when you have the old one out, just get a spill control valve for it. Milner 4x4 or Roughtrax, one of those companies sell the original Denso replacement for around 120 pounds.
 
I agree, I`d swap the pump
BUT, as I havent picked it up, I aint wrenching on it (yet).......

Got some "green oval" with a french taint in the shop thats wiping a smile off my face.....o_O
 
This may or may not be relevent but my truck failed to start for the first time ever 2 days ago at a German campsite , changed filter (80 series fuel filter is the same , thanks Nick :thumbup: i couldnt prime hard .
Previous symptoms only showed as being down on power towing uphill , 4th gear and struggling to pull 65mph :wtf:

I figure it was air in the fuel line (tanks been out recently) and the cure was to disconnect the return line at the tank , thumb over hole so Rich could pressurize the tank with his air pump . Nick primed and ultimately turned the key to fire her up and i got a diesel shower from the return pipe coming back from the pump while i hooked it back up to the tank pipe .

Jobs a good one and the black beast is back to its snarling best :thumbup:
 
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