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LC not starting

haakonbs

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Aug 19, 2014
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norway
My Prado just died on me and it will not start again. So far I've changed fuel filter, checked all sensors on the pump, check all fuses, tried starting while priming the fuel pump, no error codes from engine, no error codes on immobilizer, tried a different ecu, tried both keys and still no luck

It started for a couple of seconds when I gave the split valve direct power and they died. I know there is fuel all the to the pump.

I haven't checked the TPS og crankshaft position sensor, but they are not known to be broken as far as I know.

Fuel lines looks ok.

Any suggestions? It's a 1997 with manual gearbox
 
I had starting problems as well, it turned out to be caused by a rust hole in the diesel suction pipe where it comes out of the tank.


DSCN5972_zpsasa7l5o1.jpg

I also found that the sock filter on the end of the pick-up was covered in slime so fitted a new unit.

DSCN5976_zpsrbkhyfqn.jpg

Problem solved.

It might be worth dropping the tank and checking that yours isn't the same. My '90' is a 1998 model, manual.

Bob.
 
My Prado just died on me and it will not start again. So far I've changed fuel filter, checked all sensors on the pump, check all fuses, tried starting while priming the fuel pump, no error codes from engine, no error codes on immobilizer, tried a different ecu, tried both keys and still no luck

It started for a couple of seconds when I gave the split valve direct power and they died. I know there is fuel all the to the pump.

I haven't checked the TPS og crankshaft position sensor, but they are not known to be broken as far as I know.

Fuel lines looks ok.

Any suggestions? It's a 1997 with manual gearbox
is it cranking over ok? if so you could crack open a diesel pipe on one of the injectors & see if you've got fuel conning through.also take a look at other threads about starting problems.I traced my poor starting to a dry joint in the fuse/relay box under the ignition switch - might be a little easier than dropping the tank
 
No fuel coming through the injectors. It will not start even if I prime the pump while cranking. It is diesel all the way to the pump
 
So, fuel is getting to the pump but not through it to the injectors. I'm not a 90 owner but does the 90 pump have a solenoid operated fuel shut off valve like an 80 series?
 
Pull all the plugs on the pump and clean the connections , iirc i pulled the rear most one so i could prime my new turbo by turning the engine over without starting .
 
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check all the sensors on the pump for correct resistance readings. These are in the 1KZT-E Manual. If you need this, send me a PM. Mainly the spill valve should read between 1-2ohms. (tested at the end of the plug, with the engine off).

Also, do be careful, Feeding the spill control valve direct power can kill the solenoid. These engines will start without a tps and crank sensor. The only sensor that needs to be seen working is the RPM sensor on top of the pump. When you crank the engine, does your RPM tach move? It should be about 175-200rpm. If it's working, then it's highly possible the spill control valve at the back of the pump is dead.

If you're handy, it's also worth cleaning the filters inside the pump as they could potentially be blocked. However I kinda doubt this is your problem, as a blocked pump would still at least attempt to start.
 
Checked all sensors except water temp and timing valve. They are all good. Yes, I'm pretty sure my RPM tach moves. I know the spil control valve gets power as I hooked my multimeter into a wire and extended the wire connections so I could read what was going on. Could the spil valve be removed without removing the pump?
 
I think it can though you have to cut a large spanner in half to get some leverage or make your own tool . I answer only to save you waiting , Beau is your best source of advice regarding these pumps .
 
Yes, it can be removed. Just requires the right length 32mm spanner. I believe halfords call this size "fan spanners" And yes, it is possible for the valve to be defect when the resistance is still ok. If you've confirmed it's getting a signal, then it sounds like that's the problem. It's not lifting.

Sometime's it's easier/cheaper to get hold of another complete pump and just swap it. You can purchase a new valve for about $120.

By the way, how many miles do you have on your motor?
 
It has done 363 000 km. I took out the spill valve and everything looked fine. I could hear it click. When cranking I've got about 200 RPM.

After putting the spill valve back the engine started for a couple of seconds and then stopped. Just like when connecting the valve straight to the battery

I also checked the immobilizer system. Everything was fine. Still no error codes either

So what to do ? :)
 
ECU ?

Mind you someone :think: possibly goodoldboy ? had a similar problem that after much ado turned out to be a dry solder connection in the fuse board or something so it may be worth searching the forum history for the thread .
 
ECU ?

Mind you someone :think: possibly goodoldboy ? had a similar that after much ado turned out to be a dry solder connection in the fuse board or something so it may be worth searching the forum history for the thread .
yes that was me Shayne & it took nearly 2 years to get to the bottom of it ! I thin someone fro New Zealand had a similar problem & the aut electrician said it was not uncommon.my mechanic tracked it down by wriggling the fusebox whilst cranking over the engine.
 
hmm it does sound like a faulty valve then if swapping the ECU didn't change anything. Got any 1kz people near by who can help you out. Maybe they'll be kind enough for you steal there valve for some testing :wink:
 
Not sure this will help but have you tried towing it to bump start it,the reason I say this is we had a Nissan X trail in at work along time ago and they tried alsorts to get it started,in the end someone came up with towing it to bump it off and believe it or not it started up ok after that and they never had another problem with it,just a thought.
 
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