LED headlamp bulbs

[tony rodaway]

Mine are low/main beam and look cool.
I got fan cooled led and can fit my rubber back on perfect.
headlight led (get 10000 lnms as better coverage and 6500k)
6500k is just the colour as i think is new car look but you can get upto 1200 but look cheap.

10000 luminums is the brightness output and better coverage on the road.
If unsure about what bulbs you 120 needs its in the back of you manual.[/QUOTE]

 

[Gary820]

These are what I've fitted, built in fan etc and length about the same as a H4. Rubber boots fit on perfectly.
Fan being inside the light might even help to stop condensation

 

[Grimbo]

While modern vehicles with LEDs have good lights I'm not sure I will change from my current set up nicked partly from my old Manta 400 rally car.
Head light bulbs - Main 130w Dip 80w
Built in Main beam spots 130w
Pair of Lucas 20/20 spots from rally car 130w
All bulbs are heavy duty halogen and everyone comments on how good the lights are .
The lights are as per on the rally car all wired up with a decent relays/ loom / fuses feeding from the battery so the stock wiring is only used to trigger the relays .
I never have any problem with the alternator or batteries and it has been like this for years .....passes the MOT with no issues and the lenses are all designed to work with normal halogens .
I was thinking of changing but the "f#ck me the lights on this are good.... wish I had them on my work car" comment from a Police ARV crew member the other day confirmed my thoughts of why change ?

 

[chapel gate]

While modern vehicles with LEDs have good lights I'm not sure I will change from my current set up nicked partly from my old Manta 400 rally car.
Head light bulbs - Main 130w Dip 80w
Built in Main beam spots 130w
Pair of Lucas 20/20 spots from rally car 130w
All bulbs are heavy duty halogen and everyone comments on how good the lights are .
The lights are as per on the rally car all wired up with a decent relays/ loom / fuses feeding from the battery so the stock wiring is only used to trigger the relays .
I never have any problem with the alternator or batteries and it has been like this for years .....passes the MOT with no issues and the lenses are all designed to work with normal halogens .
I was thinking of changing but the "f#ck me the lights on this are good.... wish I had them on my work car" comment from a Police ARV crew member the other day confirmed my thoughts of why change ?

On your 80?

 

[chapel gate]

These are what I've fitted, built in fan etc and length about the same as a H4. Rubber boots fit on perfectly.
Fan being inside the light might even help to stop condensation

View attachment 162145

Good thoughts on the fan Gary. Do you have a link?

 

[Gary820]

https://www.amazon.co.uk/NOVSIGHT-H...dlight+bulb&qid=1577190667&sprefix=h4&sr=8-13

These are what I went for.
I don't have much space behind the left headlight as winch contactor and cables are there. Didn't want extra stuff sticking out.

 

[Grimbo]

On your 80?

Yes .....
Too be fair I would swap the 80 tomorrow for my old Manta 400 ........and I luv my 80 ;-)

 

[nielsc]

I have tried the Philips H4 LED’s and just as with any other H4 LED bulbs they just cannot compete with a decent halogen setup.
They look bright at first sight , but my Philips xtreme vision with uprated wiring throw a lot more light to the side of the roads, and also further up the road. I had pics somewhere, i’ll see if I can find them.

 

[steverjuk]

Fore a halogen setup in the UK don’t they need to be self levelling and also have a washer?

 

[StarCruiser]

Foe a halogen setup in the UK don’t they need to be self levelling and also have a washer?

I think you are referring to HIDs here as those are the requirements alongside the headlamp unit being designed for them.

 

[steverjuk]

Yea you’re totally correct got hid and halogens mixed up.

 

[clivehorridge]

I think you are referring to HIDs here as those are the requirements alongside the headlamp unit being designed for them.

Yes, correct Rich, but for the life of me I don’t understand the logic... HIDs run cold (we’ll mine do at any rate) so they don’t evaporate the water away leaving the grime on the glass, which needs rinsing off with the washers.

So logic says the washers should be needed with hot halogens, and not needed with cold HIDs.

The coldness of the HIDs is a pain in the winter when it’s snowing, or there’s slush on the road. On a longer journey, I’ve had to stop several times at night to scrape off up to an inch of packed slushy stuff from my headlamps, something I would never have to do with halogens.

But the HIDs are nice and bright, with a beautifully crisp cut-off line, I wouldn’t swap them for anything, except the police threats to cancel my registration, which I’ve talked my way out of, so far....

 

[chapel gate]

found time to Bob these in today.

They are the h1s, main beam.
Bit of a messy install tbh.
Had to cut the rubber boot. The driver is stuffed in the back of the lamp.

View attachment 162491 the connector to the 80s lighting loom just hangs there. Not as tidy as I would of liked, it is what it is...
On the plus side they are much brighter and have a longer reach than the halogens.

There he is, see him?

Hopefully by time these need replacing we won't need separate drivers and bulky heat sinks with fans etc..