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LED lights (non canbus)..

Higgy

Higgy

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Does anyone know if Non canbus LEDs have odd/weird affects on older vehicles? I dont mean the headlights.. Just interior /side lights etc...One of my trailers has LEDs and when the manager borrows it with his disco 3 it plays Havoc with it, But doesn't affect the 80, Weird,...Looking on ebay there seems to be a choice of Canbus/Non Canbus LEDs... Thought id check before i ordered. ..... Thanks
 
I think it's to do with resistance. Led diodes have a very small resistance so the computer thinks there's a fault or the bulbs have blown. You can fit a resistor pack or it could be the canbus led has a higher internal resistance to help fool the Sam module into thinking all is rosy.
 
I've loads of LED replacements in mine including the headlights. The only issue I've ever had is with the cruise control and the brake lamps. As mentioned there's little resistance and therefore it upsets the cruise control as it's linked to the brake lights.
 
I would assume a disco3 is canbus, so will cause problems if its not been wired correctly, but your 80 is not canbus
 
What’s being said is essentially right but the other way round. Filament lamps have a lower resistance and hence a greater loading on the circuit, whereas LEDs have a far higher resistance and present very little load on the circuit. The Canbus system detects the loading and if not correct throws an error. Often fitting a load resistor across the bulb will sort the problem by lowering the resistance and increasing the load so the Canbus system can ‘see’ it. Not sure how this works when adding a trailer. I can only think there needs to be a separate circuit for the trailer lighting on the vehicle. Hence a need for the correct plug and play trailer wiring at vastly inflated cost no doubt.

Higgy, there is a very simple solution to this.

Get the manager to buy himself an 80 series Landcruiser.
Job done.
No need to thank me. :lol:
 
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Trailers and canbus set ups don't play well together Rich. It's a nonsense. I have an old cruiser that will tow with incandescent lamps or nice smart LEDs. No problems. When I tow with the Hilux, I have to put a trailer board on with old style lights. Even just a sniff of an LED and the whole car throws a wobbly. And that's with a fully integrated OEM wiring kit, not some scotchloks crimped under the bumper btw. You can actually get a 7 pin to 7 pin ballast adaptor but last time I looked they were around £90.

Whilst you know I believe everything that you say Rich, I am a bit confused as to how leds have a higher impedance that filament lamps. Sounds a bit counter-intuitive and doesn't match with the physical results that we generally see. Certainly they draw less current - don't they?

Hey, maybe it's a new thread time! Stuff you thought you knew to be true but basically - isn't!
 
Fitted some interior LEDs today, Roof lights /door lights, Lovely bright white light, and everything is ok.... One of my Trailers has basic bulbs, But i fitted a pair of LED side marker lights, For some reason the Hazard warning lights would stop working on the 120, I even disconnected the LEDs and every thing worked, if you plugged it back in they would stop working ... Mental!... So far so good with the 80
 
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Without googling it are we saying that we don't add resistors to rectify the trailer light problem?
 
IRLGW said:
Without googling it are we saying that we don't add resistors to rectify the trailer light problem?
Click to expand...
It seems different vehicles react to different types of trailer light set ups. We have a horse box trailer that is full LED. A disco 3/4 or Jeep Cherokee, Wont entertain it. Indicator faults, Constant flickering lights, Fault /warning lights when you Brake etc..But my old 80 Or the van are fine, Anything pre 2000/ or any vehicle without some kind of Engine management system seem ok, When the LED boom hit, They say you have to fit inline Resistors, or Built in Canbus /resistor Bulbs, Bla Bla !...Then there is the 120 LC5, Plugged into a full LED Trailer with Resistors etc etc every thing works fine, No flickering, No faults,! Except the Hazard lights refuse to work..WHY!.... Cant answer that, just one of those things, As Chris says" Stuff you thought to be true" etc. Or in my case, "Stuff i have No idea About!...:wtf:
 
I had to fit a resistor to get the high beam warning light on the dash working with the Philips H4 leds on the HDJ81.
 
flint said:
I had to fit a resistor to get the high beam warning light on the dash working with the Philips H4 leds on the HDJ81.
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That’s most odd! There’s nothing special about the dash light for the hi beam, it’s simply an incandescent dash bulb across Connector pins A10 and C5.

Mine hasn’t worked for ages and I keep meaning to go through and replace all the duff bulbs…:whistle:
 
Yes, a bit strange. I had the same on the 95. Must be a bit more going on than meets the eye ?

p.s. The side light bulbs are 21/5w with the 21w bit flashing when the headlights and indicators are on, some sort of sensing circuit there perhaps, though the 95 doesn't have that. Hmmm.
 
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flint said:
Yes, a bit strange. I had the same on the 95. Must be a bit more going on than meets the eye ?

p.s. The side light bulbs are 21/5w with the 21w bit flashing when the headlights and indicators are on, some sort of sensing circuit there perhaps, though the 95 doesn't have that. Hmmm.
Click to expand...
That's a JDM thing Iirc.
 
Not sure if it’s relevant but I wired my trailer socket via a bypass relay. I have no issues with any trailer lights what so ever as are not directly linked to the OE lights maybe this is why?
 
The indicator issue is down to the total wattage not being 'seen' by the electronic flasher unit, as there is no canbus. So front/side/rear is equal to 47 watts, the flasher unit is OK with this, the same as an increase when the hazard lights are on i.e. 94 watts.

Whilst wattage is important to the electronics and tolerance is critical, the flasher unit can however tolerate small differences in voltage for example, your 12 volt car battery is not 12 volts, and when the engine is running we know you are at 14 plus volts, but the indicator timings should not change, by law there is a minimum and maximum times that the indicators flash in a minute so voltage is regulated.

You can purchase 'corrected' LED's to correct the load, it is also fine for lighting in the older emergency vehicles, this allows hazard lights and warning beacons that are fitted with LED's to work for hours on end without flattening the battery.

Canbus, is upset by many things, many cars that come through me for importing need to have the reversing/fog lights reversed, of course no problem, I just swap the wiring and change the lenses, but if the lighting sets have the canbus which reads individual factory fittings then you cannot simply run a wire from one side to the other.......unless you can access the OE ECU, then you can 'tell' it to ignore the added load, I have not updated my kit to change eprom stuff for around five years now, but if I get the OK to return to work I may well have too?

Regards

Dave
 
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Have got various LED bulbs on the 80 without issue, the only problem I've ever had is when towing trailers with LED lights the dash repeater doesn't think the indicators are working
 
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