Lights gone

[Guest]

My Theory is proved again! That is, take a group of least three blokes,
aged between 30 and 50. Leave them alone for long enough, and they will
recite the complete works of Monty Python. Adding beer to the equation
only speeds things up!!
Signed
Mrs Non-Smoker
Ps. Anyone want to buy a piston engine?
-----Original Message-----
From: [Email address removed] [mailto:[Email address removed]]
On Behalf Of john byrne
Sent: 09 May 2005 18:35
To: [Email address removed]
Subject: Re: [ELCO] Lights gone
Hey Roman
Your the lucky one at least you had a room,we were still in the bushes
and
if you were really lucky you got to sleep in the hole in the log, now
that
was a treat. Did I mention that the straw hats and shoes were donated by
the
relatives of a dead person who died of gangerious fever.
John C
92HDJ 80 1HDT Ireland

 

[Guest]

On 5/9/05, john byrne <[Email address removed]> wrote:
ll
John,
You can tell a problem if the relay contacts are burnt out,
discoloured, darkened or out of shape. If, that happens there's little
you can do. You can clean them with emery paper but soner than later
the problem will reappear. You should be looking for identical relay -
same colour and pin configuration (there are two or three types of
square brown relays). They were used in Toyotas and some other
Japanese cars built roughly
in the mid '90s
--
Rgds,
Roman (London, UK)
'92 HDJ80

 

[Guest]

On 5/9/05, Robert Edwards <[Email address removed]> wrote:
Robert
Unfortunately, your theory has a flow - I'm 51!
--
Rgds,
Roman (London, UK)
'92 HDJ80
P.S. Say no more, say no more, knowwhatahmean, nudge nudge?

 

[Guest]

On 5/9/05, Robert Edwards <[Email address removed]> wrote:
Robert
Unfortunately, your theory has a flow - I'm 51!
Ah Robert and im only 21 again some days others its more like 81
John C
92HDJ 80 1HDT Ireland

 

[Guest]

Ahhh !! The exceptions that prove the rule (Theory) !
-----Original Message-----
From: [Email address removed] [mailto:[Email address removed]]
On Behalf Of john byrne
Sent: 10 May 2005 08:01
To: [Email address removed]
Subject: Re: [ELCO] Lights gone
On 5/9/05, Robert Edwards <[Email address removed]> wrote:
blokes,
will
Robert
Unfortunately, your theory has a flow - I'm 51!
Ah Robert and im only 21 again some days others its more like 81
John C
92HDJ 80 1HDT Ireland

 

[Guest]

Hi Guys
I took the two relays out opened them and there is no sign of anything wrong
at all , they seem clean with no wires broken and no black or brown scorch
marks. So what should I look for now.
I have checked all the bulbs ,they are fine.
I have checked the steering wheel lever,
I have checked the relays,
I have checked the fuses,
John c
92HDJ 80 1HDT Ireland

 

[Guest]

On 5/10/05, john byrne <[Email address removed]> wrote:
ong
h
John,
Provided you were meticulous enough with making the checks above (I'm
still not sure how you checked the steering column switch, though),
you need some kind of test instument to carry on. It could be a
multimeter or, as a bare mnimum, a 12V bulb with two wires - one
terminated with a crocodile clip (to ground), the other with a probe
to check live connections. Without a test tool you can only do things
the hard way.
--
Rgds,
Roman (London, UK)
'92 HDJ80

 

[Guest]

John
One may nevertheless not be working.
As Roman says without some basic test equipment you are working in the dark, but here is how to test them:
(1) Identify which two terminals drive the coil on the relay
(2) Find a 12v source (eg a car battery, model train transformer) and connect it across those two terminals: the polarity (ie which is + and -) probably won't matter. It should go "click" and you should see the contact arm moving. No click =3D buggered relay.
(3) Identify the other three terminals thus:
A: The one connected to the contact arm
B: The one the contact arm touches when the coil is NOT energised
C: The one the contact arm touches when the coil IS energised.
(4) With no current in the coil there should be a circuit from A to B above. It's not good enough just to look, you need some way of confirming that there is a good solid contact.
Use a multimeter set to a "resistance" scale, place the prongs on A and B, and you should see a zero (or v. near zero) resistance indicating that there is indeed a circuit.
Now energise the coil with the battery, repeat the multimeter test, and you should see infinite resistance, ie no circuit. Leaving the coil energised swap the meter wire that is on terminal B to terminal C (leaving that on A in place). This should now read zero, ie a circuit, and when you de-energise the coil the meter reading should drop back to infinity again.
If there is no circuit (ie zero resistance) between A and C when the coil is energised, or between A and B when it is dead, then the relay is buggered.
(5) If both relays check out OK, and if (when re-installed in the car) one gives a good solid "click" when (with the lights on) you switch between low and high beam, it suggests that there is a wiring fault between the relay box and the bulbs. In this case you will have to trace the wiring from the socket into which terminal C on the relay plugs right through to the bulbs.
Again, if you had a multimeter you would now set it to the "DC voltage scale", earth the -ve lead to the chassis, and prod your way along the lighting circuit with the +ve lead looking for +12v. A 12v bulb on some wires would do: earth one wire to the chassis, and prod along with the other - while the bulb lights up you have 12v, and when it doesn't you've found the circuit break.
You really do need that multimeter, or at a pinch a 12v bulb on the end of two wires, otherwise you are like a mediaeval "doctor" trying to diagnose bad humours in his patient!
Christopher Bell
(And no reference to Monty Python, although I did sneak in a touch of Jerome K Jerome a few emails back)
|
|
| I took the two relays out opened them and there is no sign of
| anything wrong
| at all , they seem clean with no wires broken and no black or
| brown scorch
| marks. So what should I look for now.
|
| I have checked all the bulbs ,they are fine.
| I have checked the steering wheel lever,
| I have checked the relays,
| I have checked the fuses,
|

 

[Guest]

Hi Christopher
Thanks again for the advice but I think ill leave it in to the auto
elecrictian. I checked for clicks and they both click when the high beam is
engaged and if you place you fingers either side of the relays you can feel
the click aswell.
John C
92HDJ 80 1HDT Ireland

 

[Guest]

OK
Let us know what it finally is please
CB
| Thanks again for the advice but I think ill leave it in to the auto
| elecrictian. I checked for clicks and they both click when
| the high beam is
| engaged and if you place you fingers either side of the
| relays you can feel
| the click aswell.
|
| John C

 

[Guest]

[goods bought]

Hi Guys
I recently bought a lot of stuff from Difflock, the kind of stuff you can't
get here or they want your house to pay for it. Anyway it all arrived and I
discovered that one part did not work on an item. I thought O s--- here we
go, post it back to the UK, wait for a reply, and then delivery of another
simalar item. Who would pay the cost of delivery ,the wait, the back and
fort e-mails etc. But no none of this I simply e-mailed them and they are
sending out a replacement part, no fuss no bother at all. I just thought I
would tell you guys because its great to get good service is it not. One of
the items I bought was 5 litres of the MIllers diesel additive, I have never
used it before so I will be waiting for some difference to justify the cost,
we shall see and I will tell you guys.
John C
92 HDJ 80 1HDT Ireland

 

[Guest]

Hello all,
Just to prove that the darkest place is under the lamp post ( ,
last night, while driving on dark country roads I experienced (again)
a high beam lamp failure - exactly as described in the thread. And
the reason was - yes you guessed it - the dim/dip relay (black). After
removing the plastic cover from the relay and cleaning the contacts
the high beam returnedto normal. What troubles me is that it was a
second failure in the last six months (different relays). If a third
one fails I'll have to devise a better solution, methinks.
--
Rgds,
Roman (London, UK)
'92 HDJ80

 

[Guest]

Strange that this should happen again...
I've just been out to check on the auto gearbox oil level and the two unions
in and out of the additional oil cooler I've fitted for the a/t. It was
oozing a little but seems ok now. I also happened to just look at the wiring
in and around the engine and like everyone I'm surprised that much of it
seems pretty flimsily put together for what was (and still is in a way) a
big 4x4. Don't know whether your car has done may trips to N Africa but I
just wondered whether the flimsy looms, contacts, relays etc may not be up
to a repeated bashing on corrugations etc. I'll soon find out - we;re off to
the desert in september. I also know that these cars are getting on and in
certain areas reflect their age.
Maybe get the chance to meet up at Billing.
Jeremy
On 31/5/05 13:00, "Roman" <[Email address removed]> wrote:
Jeremy Llewellyn-Jones
--

 

[Guest]

On 5/31/05, Jeremy Llewellyn-Jones <[Email address removed]> wrote:
ons
ing
p
Jeremy
The wiring loom on the LHS of the engine is not that flimsy after all.
It is well protected inside convoluted tubing and the connectors are
quite robust. The top tempreatrure of the engine block is controlled
so there's no danger of melting. Except for the injection pump cut-off
solenoid they loom contains wiring only for sensors, so no vital
connections here that will stop you in the middle of the track. The
dim/dip changeover relays were added as an afterthought to meet UK
requirements. My main concern is that these relays switch considerable
currents but have no protection from arcing on the contacts.
n
So where are you off to? Trans - Africa, opr just North Africa?
--
Rgds,
Roman (London, UK)
'92 HDJ80

 

[Guest]

Hi Roman
I would agree with you about the robustness of the wiring loom the only
issue I have with TLC wiring is that I nearly lost my cruiser when a small
white wire that weirdly is not fused thru the fuse block earthed on the
aircleaner box and practically torched the car. Imagine sitting in your car
trying to switch the engine off with smoke pouring out from the vents both
in and out of the car, whilst getting the fire extinguisher out to then pop
the bonnet flames everywhere and then to discover the extinguisher is
dead!!!!! Thank god I was at home and the hose was near to hand. Of course
water on an electrical fire is not a good idea but I managed to get the
batteries disconnected pronto and then put out flames... Nearly broke my
heart looking at the mess but good old insurance co. again wanted to write
off the car they had a quote for ?8,000.00 to rewire the car so no chance
there so did most of the work myself and with a full check out by an auto
electrician she was back on the road. Total cost of materials and labour
?140. But the Dash is a pig to completely dismantle back to bare metal and
wires and I ended up with two screws that I simply could not find a home
for....
Lesson learnt. Buy a new extinguisher every year, and take time out to look
carefully at all the wiring and imagine it going wrong as I can assure you
it will. What happened is that a wire to one of the solenoids was not
installed correctly and was sticking out of the plastic hosing that protects
the loom, this was then in contact with the underneath of the aircleaner box
and 11 years of rubbing wore it through. Bang.
By the way to guarantee the work on the wiring the insurance co would have
had to have the whole car rewired!! Nice. Hence the fact that the car
would have been a write-off.
Regards
Simon Hughes

 

[Guest]

On 5/31/05, Simon Hughes <[Email address removed]> wrote:
Hello Simon,
cts
box
Which engine? Was it the wire going to the progressive power
settering valve? Strange ...
e
Oh dear! What a waste of talent. That insurance guy should be sitting
on a local council administration board.
--
Rgds,
Roman (London, UK)
'92 HDJ80