Manual vs. automatic gearbox

[Silviu]

Hi,

I cannot decide between two cars, one is manual and one is automatic.
Is there any reason to choose one over the other?
Which is more easy to fix, breaks down less?

Thank you!

 

[uHu]

They don't break down. This is t0yota quality.
Manual would have been easier to fix.
The Auto can take more beating, gives you more torque on the wheels, and is easier to drive, especially with a trailer.
The manual gives you better control over the rpm (typical for auto is 1800 rpm up all steepish hills, as that's the stall speed for the converter); and a slightly better fuel economy.
I think there is more maintenance on the manual (clutch and sync. rings), but any repair on an auto would be more expensive. They will last between 500 k and 1 million km before needed though.
There is the issue of the ATF running through the bottom of the main radiator, so that any damage to the bottom part could lead to coolant into the ATF. This hasn't been a problem on the 100 series, but the 90 series has had a few incidents, sharing generally the same design.

When I got my first 100, I wanted a manual (as my 80 was), but because of difficulties finding one (without waiting 5 mnths for production) I settled on an auto. It came as a gift from above, the auto really suits this heavy vehicle. And that was the older 4-speed --- The newer 5-speed is mucho mucho smooother and faster.

 

[Silviu]

The auto has 4 speed and manual is 5 speed.
I've read about the auto possible problems due to heating generated by the torque converter.
(https://l.messenger.com/l.php?u=htt...8gP1HSNhh73EzJBkeQ5UKY5VIQL88S2ir3RW9o9ddwGxA). I hope it's allowed to post links.

I plan to take the vehicle on a tour around South America, so I don't want to have problems in the middle of nowhere
I don't plan on using it much off-road and I'm used to a manual transmission.
Even if I would ruin the clutch plates on the manual, it's still easier and less expensive to repair, right ?

 

[uHu]

I wouldn't hesitate taking any of those two around any continent. The manual can also be started with an empty battery.
Is this diesel or petrol?
If diesel: With the 4-sp auto you only have to check that it doesn't have the bad converter that came in the first two production years or so (Was it up to june 2000 production? It's in here somwhere).
Overheating is not a common problem, but there are different sizes of atf coolers fitted, so that could be checked before going to a hotter climate. My first 100 had only a double loop of pipe in front of the main radiator, while the 5-sp has a proper radiator style oil cooler, so there must be a reason for the change in design.

 

[Silviu]

Both diesel.
The auto is year 2000, so I guess would have the bad converter.
Changing the cooler would solve the issue? Or the converter should be changed?

 

[frank rabbets]

There's a big difference between 5 spd auto and 4 spd auto. The 5 spd is far smoother and more controllable also more reliable.

 

[uHu]

Converter was probably changed long time ago, unless it never saw a dealer's maintenance and has less than 100 k km. The early converters had a bad bearing that would disintegrate. Not related to cooling.

 

[t1pper]

If its any help I have a 1999 diesel 4sp auto with 200k miles used for a lot of heavy towing and it has performed without fault.
Only maintance on the system has been to replace the strainer in the gearbox (the original was perfect but I wasnted to baseline the whole truck) and I drop out 3 or 4 litres of ATF every year and replace with new, its not a whole flush but keeps the fluid looking fresh.

 

[bandsnbrakes]

There's a big difference between 5 spd auto and 4 spd auto. The 5 spd is far smoother and more controllable also more reliable.

Not sure on more reliable, its a smaller box physically with a much more sophisticated control. Great to use as a driver and for fuel economy (shifts beautifully) but for work id rather have a 4 speed with the full steel planet sets. Fluid quantity less too about 9.5 litres dry fill compared to 14.5 litres in a 4 speed, so less bulk cooling capacity.

 

[bandsnbrakes]

If its any help I have a 1999 diesel 4sp auto with 200k miles used for a lot of heavy towing and it has performed without fault.
Only maintance on the system has been to replace the strainer in the gearbox (the original was perfect but I wasnted to baseline the whole truck) and I drop out 3 or 4 litres of ATF every year and replace with new, its not a whole flush but keeps the fluid looking fresh.

Yep they good boxes good to always have a supplementary cooler though for those long hill hauls

 

[bandsnbrakes]

Both diesel.
The auto is year 2000, so I guess would have the bad converter.
Changing the cooler would solve the issue? Or the converter should be changed?

The auto is good, but for simplicity you cannot beat a manual they just aren't as easy to drive though (both are good boxes). Keep the auto cool with supplementary cooler and regular oil changes not a lot more to say.

 

[Silviu]

I've chosen the one with the manual, but it wasn't the major factor in the decision.
The factor was that the auto was totally repainted with U-POL Raptor which seems to be very hard/next to impossible to take down.