many questions, i'm afraid

G

Guest

Guest
Hi all,
First commiserations to Simon over his ABS and also to John B for having
caught Cruiseritis - he's done for, I fear.
I'm about to get weaving with sorting out this 'new' 97 GX I picked up
last week and have some questions, so here goes:
1 - The engine has done 73,000 miles - and from the condition, old MOTs
etc, I reckon this might even be genuine - is it therefore a waste of
time to take the camshafts off and check the valve clearances.
2 - How can I test the 'hotel' load on the batteries (i.e. the load with
everything switched off, caused by the alarm etc)? I have an ammeter,
but as a kid I remember blowing one up by putting it across a car
battery, so obviously that's the wrong approach.
3 - For 'bush' simplicity, is there any point in taking off the EGR
valves or any other 'psuedo environmental' gubbins, or it it best just
to leave it be?
4 - Has anyone done the 'boost compensator' mod here
http://www.lcool.org/technical/80_series/1hdft_pump_adj.html
and, if so, did it do anything?
5 - Does anyone know if you can get the centre difflock switch (handly
for locking the centre locker in high range) in the UK? I got one from
Man-a-Fre for my (overseas) petrol cruiser, but with the US postage it
was a bit of a hassle.
6 - I think my rear diff might be an LSD but I'm not sure. How can I
find out and does it make any difference to what sort of oil I put in
it?
7 - (Lastly)I'm considering getting (ANOTHER) OME suspension kit. Will
probably be 850/863 - which is what most people fit I think - with
Nitrochargers. Anyway, I wonder who, of those that have OME, bothered
with the caster correction kit? I did last time, but it was such a pain
in the jacksie to fit, I'm not sure I can face it again!
Sorry for the overload of questions,
Thanks and regards - Andy
-----Original Message-----
From: [Email address removed] [mailto:[Email address removed]]
On Behalf Of Simon Hughes
Sent: 28 July 2005 10:34
To: [Email address removed]
Subject: RE: [ELCO] ABS woes
Hi All
So julian, Toyo have discovered that it was the nearside sensor that was
damaged/broken/ignoring signals etc... It will cost =A3300+vat + =A3120 to
fit
the new sensors and the wiring loom. Passed MOT with advisory that the
handbrake is not stopping the car quickly enough??? Admitted that they
use
a roller to test the handbrake which is as far as I know a major no no
for
perm 4x4s???? Strange the handbrake works for me but they want to pull
the
rear brakes and have a look =3D =A3=A3=A3=A3. Exhaust rear box is rubbing on the
body
but as Gary in Toyo said a crowbar will fix that!!!! Missed the
corroding
brake pipes, the gaping hole in the exhaust that I covered with a split
beer
can and jubilee clips a la Julian, the thin rear disks and pads and the
fact
that the steering can be a bit wobbly at times. He did say that the
near
side shock was leaking oil and I told him it had for the last 5 years
and
had always passed MOT by wiping it off before the test. Will order new
shocks on my return though as I think this is why I get funny noises
from
that side when running things over.
By the by I will keep the sensors and the loom and will bench test them
and
bet that it is a damaged wire rather than the actual sensor. If this is
the
case then I will be putting the lot on E-bay to re coop my money.
Regards
Simon Hughes
 
G

Guest

Guest
Andy you and I have vitually identical vehicles, assuming yours is a GB spec vehicle, even down to the colour - bookends !!
I bought mine 2 and half years ago @ 59, 000 miles it now has 93,000 miles
no major dramas so far.
Valve clearances are checked easily. The HDFT engine uses rockers not shims.
Get a decent multi meter with a 10 amp capacity and remove the positive terminal off the battery, connect m/m to lead and battery. This is not "across" the battery.
Leave the EGR system in place. However, it is dead easy to by pass it - which is what I have done. The problem is how to explain ? I will think about this.
Yes I have done the lcool boost mods on the pump and I feel that pick up improved. Read the instructions carefully, leave alone if not confident.
You should have a rotary switch to the left of the steering wheel, position 1 open diffs, position 2 rear locked, position 3 both locked. Use a hypoid gear oil. You do not need / want LSD specific oil.
OME - I intend doing this when I can afford it. Have a look at the Slee site for guidance.
I have just fitted a 3 inch s/s exhaust system. Very good.
Tyres - the ubiquitous BFG - A/T 285 X 16's been for over 2 years and lasting well, coped with Salisbury plain no probs.
Roof rack - Hannibal Alloy. light yet strong.
I need to fit my Walbro pusher pump and collect / fit my winch bar and milemarker. Time - time.......
Regards Gareth Jones '97 1-HDFT manual / green Newport S.Wales.
 
G

Guest

Guest
On 7/28/05, aclbell <[Email address removed]> wrote:
I can't answer all questions as I stilll need to do some useful work,
you know, but I can try answereing a few of them:
I think Toyota advise to check valve clreance every 10k miles. Do you
know when it was last checked in your engine?

You need to use either a very sensitive clamp ammeter or a in-line
ammeter with a 10A max range. If everything works as expected, the
idle load should be anything between 20 mA and 50mA. If yours is a
12/24V type, you should completely disconnect one battery and check
the load by putting the ammeter in line with the 12V cable on the
other battery. Make sure your ammeter is fused if you want to avoid
the trauma of your childhood experience.


I'd rather leave everything in place and block the passaage of the
exaust gas. Not sure if the EGR circuit does not interfere with other
engine settings.

You can buy it from Toyota delers here. Part N 84725-60010 Switch,
centre differential lock, FJ80, FZJ80, HDJ80, HZJ80, From --- to 0200
To HDJ80 -0003676

Have you ever considered Oram shocks (with remote reservoires)? . They
are like those sold by Equip4x4 only cheaper. I've had them for almost
two years and they seem to be pretty robust. Just had them checked
last week and the pressure was spot on, no leaks, no problems. I've
never yoused them on corrugations but otherwise they seem to be pretty
bombproof. They are marketed here by SR. If you want to know more, let
me know and I'll put you in touch with Colin.
As for the castor correction kit, the popular belief is that it's not
worth the bother.
--
Rgds,
Roman (London, UK)
'92 HDJ80
 
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