Metallic rattle/grinding noise from O/S/F

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I first noticed it yesterday a noise that sounded like a stone stuck in with the brake pad but it soon went of it's own accord so I ignored it. A few hours later the noise returned but what appeared to be a lot louder, luckily I had a friend with me who was able to jump out and decide that it sounded like it was coming from the offside front wheel it was doing the noise at very low (crawling) speeds.

Drove it back home and I can't say I noticed the sound, drove it to work this morning no noise, drove it home again and about another 30 miles on dual carriageway and the noise has come back but it seems to be bad like the second time I heard it. I'm sure I can feel the noise through the underside of the car, it seems to be linked to roadspeed but not wheel speed (gearbox/prop?).

It might just be my imagination but it also feels like it pulls to the left when braking gently which I'm 99.9% certain it wasn't doing previously.

I'm going to drive to work very carefully in case the wheel does fall off or something (have checked it and it's fine..) and put it on a ramp and have a look around to see if there is a stone in there or as I suspect something else more expensive has broken. I shall report my findings.

In the mean time, has anyone else had this problem before?

A google search brought up this thread which sounds like what I'm experiencing.
http://www.tlocuk.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?p=36594&sid=0c95e697415ec3d9d5cc14950b754cba
 

adrianr

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I'd be checking wheel bearings / steering bearings too - have you rebuilt your front hubs / seals etc since you owned the truck?
 
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I've only had it for a week. Has got a good main dealer history but not sure exactly what was done.
What is involved with rebuilding the front hubs?
 

Chris

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Rebuilding a front hub is easy. There is a sticky at th top of the 80 section. Have look at that. It also shows you how to rebuild the front axle - but you don't need to touch any of that to do the hub. I have one built up as a spare. You need to get the wheels off the ground really so that you can have a good wiggle around.

Chris
 
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Andrew Prince

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Chris said:
You need to get the wheels off the ground really so that you can have a good wiggle around.
As Chris said, jack up that wheel and then have a good yank on the wheel with your hands at 12 and 6 o'clock (one pushing, one pulling) and then at 3 and 9 o'clock. Any play will mean your wheel bearing pre-load has gone (too loose). If it's really bad, you might find some clicking... If there is play, then it would be a good idea to whip off the wheel and hub and have a quick check of the bearings and then set the preload like this, possibly erring on the tighter side :cool:

Check the steering knuckle studs - they are the 4 bolts/studs holding the steering arm onto the knuckle/axle. If you look at the underside of the knuckle, you will see them. These have a tendency to work loose and even worse fall out. Take your 17mm(?) spanner with you and give them a tighten while you're checking ;)

It could be that you have a stone caught in the back of the rim against the dust cover - that would be the most minor and easiest to fix :cool:

Cheers,
 

Paul

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I had this with mine, was pointed out to me at the ill fated Salisbury trip a while ago. Everyone thought it was stones and sometimes did clear after reversing. When doing the hub rebuild the wheel bearings were completley shot, had gone throught he MOT like it as there was a little freeplay, but when removed were found to be rusty.
If in doubt then worth checking, if the bearings are at a stage that they need doing there will probably be other signs like leaking hubs anyway.
 

Chas

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Paul said:
When doing the hub rebuild the wheel bearings were completley shot, had gone throught he MOT like it as there was a little freeplay, but when removed were found to be rusty.
If in doubt then worth checking, if the bearings are at a stage that they need doing there will probably be other signs like leaking hubs anyway.
Beware, this is what happens when the bearings finally break up and overheat and melt the stub axle :shock:

ThreeWheelsOnMyWagon-1.jpg



:o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o
Chas
 

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Paul

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If you are not sure maybe take a run down to Greg at Landcruisers Overland nr Brighton. Not too far if you are in Surrey.
Good guy and would be more than happy to take a look with no obligation, i might be there tomorrow too.
 

Jon Wildsmith

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As well as wobbling the wheel at 12 & 6, turn it to check for smooth running. There will be a bit of rubbing from the brake pads but other than that it should turn smoothly.
 
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I noticed a bit of play in the wheel last weekend when I had it on a ramp but I was checking the gearbox and rear diff so didn't pay too much attention to the front of the car. I also noted the front track rod ends are loose which I've ordered. Maybe it is a ruined bearing. If you drive very slowly you can feel it grinding now.

Ian is sorting me out the parts I need. Sadly I am working tommorow but am off Sunday and Monday. Going to do what I can with my friend (who is so much more handy with tools than I am) on Sunday and if we can't sort it out, I'll have to seek professional help.
 

adrianr

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unless its caused a lot of damage it shouldn't be too hard for you to sort with your friend. make sure you have the large thin walled socket to get the nuts off.
 
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adrianr said:
unless its caused a lot of damage it shouldn't be too hard for you to sort with your friend. make sure you have the large thin walled socket to get the nuts off.

Excellent thank you.

Also massive thanks to the users of this forum. Within an hour of discovering the need for this socket, I've been offered the use of 3 of them. Thanks to Ian for arranging the parts for me.

:)
 
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