my story; removing the cylinder head 80 series 1HD-T

[StarCruiser]

Could that be brought on by diesel washing the bores and diluting the oil?

 

[frank rabbets]

I think you'd have oil way up on the dip stick and notice a huge increase in oil level before damage done. I had 3 litres of diesel in my oil once due to using the original washers on my spill pipe banjos inside the cam cover. No damage to engine. I think if you had excess through injectors it would not get past the rings.

 

[lockie]

More good news, filled the water jackets up with anti-freeze and left over night.... no signs of any cracks in the bores...
all the parts are now ordered so hopefully I'll get them by Friday so I can have a red-hot crack at getting back up and running!

 

[lockie]

I forgot to ask, anyone got any hot tips on getting off old gasket goo? Is there some sought of gasket goo thinner or something??
Or do I have to just use a bit of old fashion elbow grease??

 

[frank rabbets]

I use a freshly sharpened 3 cm wide wood chisel at 5 degree angle (shalow) to the surface. That removes any corrosion together with old gasket. Then I degrease well and dry. Then I use a block of dead flat wood with 400 grade cutting paper wrapped round and give the surface a good rubbing down. This procedure should bring the surface up to brand new and show up any defects. Same with the head. Then degrease again.

I think with your big end bolts you torque them all up then turn the wrench on each another 90 degrees. It's easy to get confused so I torque them all up then double check. I then mark each bolt head at it's very front. When I then do the 90 degrees I can see each bolt has been done and by the correct amount. Easy to get muddled up lying under and also turning the crank round to get to each bolt.

 

[StarCruiser]

Glad to see I'm not the only one giving carpenters heart failure Frank.

 

[frank rabbets]

They're a bugger to sharpen properly.

There's no give in the gasket so surfaces have to be perfect. Not like years ago when the gaskets were soft and you had to retighten every so often. My old land rover had 23/1 compression ratio. I noticed it started to run a bit rough and was down on power. On having a look round I saw one cylinder head bolt had completely rattled loose and all the others were not at all tight lol.

 

[StarCruiser]

They're a bugger to sharpen properly.

I used to work with a Korean chippy who had one of the wood block planes you pull towards you. He would often be up sharpening it till 2 in the morning till he got an edge you could shave with.
He almost cried when he saw me using my wood chisel to de burr a hole in some metal trunking.

 

[clivehorridge]

I'm terrible at abusing tools, but at least I did learn how to re-grind and stone-sharpen wood chisels properly, as well as sharpening drill bits to the correct angles.

Once you learn these things, you don't forget.

I don't have any wood chisels any more but I do have an ancient wooden jack-plane, the blade in that must be 60mm wide and spends most of its time doing things it shouldn't, under my supervision

 

[lockie]

Update.... unfortunatly today when I was cleaning I found that there is quite a bit of play in the turbine... so... guess I'll be replacing that.

Oh well.. shit happens. But any Australians on here heard or used Munro racing turbos? They do a upgrade/rebuild for exchange for the ct26.. for about $800
Looks the goods and by far the cheapest option I've found so far

 

[StarCruiser]

The main thing is doing what you can, doing it right and using genuine parts (or reliable rebuilders) which it looks like you're doing. So all should be good for an engine that performs like new.
There is a running in process to bed the rings in.

 

[Michael Montgomery]

Update.... unfortunatly today when I was cleaning I found that there is quite a bit of play in the turbine... so... guess I'll be replacing that.

Oh well.. shit happens. But any Australians on here heard or used Munro racing turbos? They do a upgrade/rebuild for exchange for the ct26.. for about $800
Looks the goods and by far the cheapest option I've found so far

I replaced my turbo some 5 years ago & like you searched for long & hard for a decent replacement. May I recommend this as a alternative

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/131788576354

 

[StarCruiser]

Was that the one you fitted Dervis? Looks comprehensive with all the springs and set up info.

 

[lockie]

finally found a micrometer to borrow, measured the crank journals and they were all with-in spec!
going to get some plastigauge today and finally start putting it all back together...
I've basically cleaned everything (what a ball of fun that was), I've almost got all of the old exhaust off and ill be sending the turbo away today or tomorrow... so fingers crossed work isn't too busy this week and I can spend some afternoons working on it!

 

[lockie]

also, I've got a swivel hub rebuild kit for my old 60 series, does anyone know if i would able to use that on my 80 series?

 

[frank rabbets]

Well done Lockie. All very interesting.

 

[lockie]

I want to give the inside of the bottom end a final flush out, just in case there's any little bits of grit floating around..
just wanted to know, is it ok to use Diesel for this? And if not what should I use?

 

[Michael Montgomery]

Was that the one you fitted Dervis? Looks comprehensive with all the springs and set up info.

Yes it the exact one Richard it's a slight upgrade to stock but not over the top. Made in Japan so quality on par with stock Toyota. Upon researching I found out it's made in the same main factory that most turbos are made so in this case bypassed the middle man being Toyota to save a bundle.

 

[frank rabbets]

Yes completely OK to use diesel to wash components. It's slow to evaporate though so one has to degrease any surface where sealer is to be applied. pieces are best left to drain overnight.

After checking with plastigauge the next job is to bolt the caps on. I've always used grease on the journals to protect for those few seconds when you won't have oil pressure on start up. Other fancy lubricants are available but a bit OTT. If you think that every time you start the engine there is only engine oil on the journals it makes you wonder why something special is needed.

I always mark the bolt heads during tightening sequence :-

1. To make sure you have done every bolt to initial torque.
2. To make sure every bolt is turned exactly 90 degrees. It's surprising how muddled you get during the 90 process as you can't go back over the bolts to check unless you have made a mark at the front of each head before the bolt is turned 90. Also if you have to remove the wrench during the 90 you don't know where your starting position was without the mark.

 

[lockie]

one handy tip I got for this was to have a heat gun handy in case the gudgeon bearings were a bit tight going into pistons.
hot damn that was a good tip!! it made for a very easy job.
anyway here is a few pictures, ill post more soon.