National Luna split charge replaced with home made version

[Chris]

I have to confess that I have never actually liked my Nat Luna split charge system. I've never thought it to be very weatherproof, the solenoid failed too and then more recently the cabin display packed up. Not a good advert. OK so the actual time bit kept working but I couldn't use the manual over-ride.

When in the Lakes last weekend the truck had been parked for 2 days whilst camping. I'd been using the lights and so on. I pulled away in the rain and the wipers were struggling to drag themselves across the screen. Because I have converted to 12v start, the DS battery powers all of the vehicle systems.

Now, the National Luna system relies on a timer to bring in the charge solenoid rather than the IBS system which uses a voltage sensing circuit. I had to drive for at least 5 minutes with lights on and wipers going plus the demister all pulling from the standing battery. Then there was a click, the dash voltmeter leapt up and the wipers took off! I'd had enough. Time to go. It's over priced, unreliable and not particularly well made.

This morning, I junked the control box and replaced it with this VSR The reason I chose this one was because it has an extra ground terminal which when connected gives you a manual over ride. I'll stick a press to make switch in the cabin later so I can connect if necessary.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/100-180-A...GING-RELAY-WITH-MANUAL-CONTROL-/222059813742?

It says it's 100 A rated but to be honest with having 6mm terminals I didn't really want to connect main battery cables to that. Sure, we all know that it doesn't need to be connected using 50mm2 welding cable but I had some concerns that the cables might be so strong that they could move and snap the terminals off. So being a cunning bunny, I just used the VSR to fire the original relay with the 10mm contacts. It's easy to wire up. No electrical mysteries.

So here's the built up unit.



The picture makes it look a bit scruffy, it's not that bad really. There is some alloy fuzz on the body of the solenoid, but it's just Morocco showing through again.

And here it is bolted into position.



I put the voltmeter on it, then connected the CTEK charger rather than run the engine so I could hear what was going on. The voltage climbed 12.9, 13.0, 13.5 click - CLUNK. Straight in. Works a flipping treat. With my big alternator the VSR triggers almost immediately so no more dragging wipers.

 

[Gary820]

Nice simple solution.
Currently on with doing similar things but from scratch as going twin battery. Postie is going to be busy over next few weeks lol.

 

[StarCruiser]

Nicely done Chris, and a nice solution to the problem. I too have looked at relays like those and thought they could be far beefier. 100A in mains work would be far bigger so your solution quite apart from the dragging of cables on the terminals (which BTW was a spot on call) is on the money. I like the cable sleeving protection too and the whole way you've mounted it all.

 

[Chris]

There were some bigger looking relays Rich, but you know on closer inspection most of them just LOOKED bigger but weren't. Far better to use them as a trigger I think. The Durite ones are neat and popular but this one has the extra feature as I said. Too be fair, some of the cable I used was far over specced but I didn't have any crimp lugs small enough to go on 1.5 mm cable. So I just beefed the those up to make use of some decent lugs. The Mega fuse in the top is 100A

 

[Dave2000]

Chris, your cabin unit, what was it about the display that went wrong? I have the NL dual display in mine but went with a Blue Seas marine VSR with incorporated electronics. It was a few years back when it was done and the setup with pics is in here somewhere http://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/my-lc-80-thread.365673/ and everything including the display has worked fine, by coincidence I was asked about it's accuracy and was happy to find it was as near as dammit close to my Fluke MM.

Did you get a duff unit or have you heard of others with issues? I only ask because I recently re-fabbed my centre console (also found in link) with the unit mounted at an angle so it is easier to see in sunlight, there is no way I would change it now but, if it is going to give issues I will keep an eye out for a cheap spare rather than go through another re-fab of the console as it look just right now.

regards

Dave

 

[Chris]

Dave what can I tell you
It used to show two battery levels and then it didn't

It's what I'd call broken. Tried everything but it no worky so it's going in the bin
As I said I never actually liked it so this has been nudge really
I don't have a display but do I need one?
Shame the damn thing is embedded in my console so ill be ringing Karl I guess

 

[Chris]

Should have added that I checked the internal fuse even thought the blown fuse light wasn't on. Also checked the multi-pin cable connections but the controller was utterly dead and I wasn't about to pay APB another £100 for a new one. I guess eventually I'll pull the dead bit out and put in a simple volt meter or something. Not rushing to do that just yet.

 

[Dave2000]

Got it, you had the controller version, mine is a display only unit, perhaps I will have better luck...fingers crossed? I like the idea of a quick glance and all is well (or not) which is all I need. Lost me on the 'dispels'?

regards

Dave

 

[Chris]

Dispels, what ever do you mean Dave. Ha ha. Yes it's the remote controller version. Actually, I think that having a read out like that gives you more worries than is necessary. JW once asked me if I had an oil pressure gauge in my car. No I replied, just a warning light. And so how much do you worry about oil pressure? Well I don't was the response. So in an 80 with a pressure gauge why is it that people become obsessed with it? Hmm. Good point. I think I shall just fit and open / closed light somewhere so that I can see the relay is engaged. That's all I really need. Loads of rows of coloured lights is just more to worry about.

 

[Dave2000]

Oil pressure gauge is a good example, despite calibrating mine so it reads properly I also put a 'T' in the line with a 20psi pressure switch, this couples up to a red flashing LED, definitely notice that before the gauge drops. I must be completely honest though and I do like gadgets, but not gadgets for gadgets sake, they must work (properly) or they go in the bin.

regards

Dave

 

[Gary820]

I'd thought about a volt meter for the aux battery etc I'm plumbing in, I figured I'd just end up looking at it far too often so haven't ordered one. If stuff stops working I'll start the engine

 

[Chris]

Just to report on this, so far it's working perfectly. Get in, turn the key, within a couple of seconds, 'thunk' and it's in.

 

[nick_the_fish]

Ive also got the NL split charge system and the controller unit in the cab. The split charge system has worked perfectly since it went in but the controller is total rubbish. The voltage in both batteries seems to change just by wiggling the connector. I'm no electrician by pretty sure thats not how it is supposed to work.

Its worth noting that if you jump the main battery with the aux battery using the controller's override you will blow the inline fuse.

We've always had electrical gremlins somewhere that have been difficult to track down so I am keen to have a voltmeter and an ammeter on the main battery to see whats going on. I was thinking of something cheap and easy like this

https://www.amazon.co.uk/DROK-Digit...873974&sr=1-1&keywords=car+ammeter+with+shunt

(how the hell do you insert a hyperlink then...)

Anyway has anyone any experience with these? I want to make sure they are accurate when there is low current draw (when the engine is off) as well as when the engine is running.

If not can anyone recommend a simple good quality ammeter/ voltmeter?

Cheers

Nick

 

[Chris]

Nick I am just about to order one of these if you want to share the postage ..

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/321988036536?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

 

[StarCruiser]

That looks nice Chris. It looks huge until you see it in situ when it looks about the size of a matchbox. Simple and neat. If it weren't for the wheel on the side I would be tempted to integrate it into the roof pod where the compass and altimeter are.

 

[Chris]

Roof pod? Compass? Altimeter?

and you don't have a fancy voltmeter? What sort of set up is that Man?

 

[StarCruiser]

Roof pod? Compass? Altimeter?

and you don't have a fancy voltmeter? What sort of set up is that Man?

Factory Toyota on my HDJ81

 

[clivehorridge]

(how the hell do you insert a hyperlink then...) Cheers, Nick

OK, read all that and understood nowt except somethings broken and Chris skillfully fixed it using something else, and the bit of quote from Nick above. Just to show I'm not completely useless at everything here's how to do an active word link. (If that's any use Nick).

Copy a URL onto the pasteboard, type and highlight the chosen active word, click on the 'chain link' to the right of the video button (above) and paste the URL in the 'chain link' dialogue box. Click OK, and it should work.

If not, ask Crispin, he's doing nothing much these days...

(runs and hides... )

 

[nick_the_fish]

Thanks Chris, but what I really want is an ammeter in the cab. I can always whip out the voltmeter to measure the batteries voltage fairly quickly, but to find the current draw I need to faff about putting the ammeter in series so it'd just be easier to get an ammeter and combined voltmeter in the cab. Maybe i'll start another thread rather than hijacking yours.

Cheers for the heads up clive on the hyperlinking.

Love that roof pod....

 

[Chris]

Well the Victron system does that superbly well. Costs about £127 but is more than just an ammeter. I have one in my 80 Only issue with the cheap ones is that they are seldom accurate and typically pack up the day you install them.