New Car - Intro and a few questions

[BenjiCarlos]

Hello there, just purchased a very nice 1991 Land Cruiser 4.2 1DHT VX Jap Import. Everything works in it and the engine and chassis are lovely. Only covered 87k miles as well. All in all very surprising compared to my younger RRC which is for sale if anyone is interested? gumtree.com/p/cars-vans-motorbikes/94-land-rover-range-rover-classic-vogue-se-39l-v8-efi/1130804960 My plan is so do some overlanding with the car and hopefully spend many a happy year with it!

Anyhoo, a couple questions regarding the car as I am new to Land Cruisers.. (be kind)

1. My air con didn't seem to be working and nor did the engine revs increase when turned on (light goes on) so I popped the bonnet and found the belt wasn't on. So I loosened the tensioner, back on it went, 2 minutes later it snapped. Ooops! Maybe I tightened it a bit too much but that aside, when I turned the aircon on it still never changed the engine revs, could the pump be goosed?
Also is the fridge/freezer in the armrest (which isn't very comfortable) run off the aircon system also?

2. I have read that a new 3" exhaust from the turbo back (silencers or straight through?) is a great upgrade as I have noticed torque off the line not to be as good as the 3.9 V8 RRC? Where can I get me one of those delivered to bonnie Scotland or is it best to get a custom one made?

3. There is a bit of a rust bubble which is actually rather large on the top tailgate on the corner of the window. Is it cheap enough to get a new tailgate or will I be better off taking it to the paint shop?

I shall upload some pictures this evening as I haven't taken any yet!

 

[Dave2000]

Welcome!

The air con compressor is more than likely seized, see if you can turn the pulley (inner section) by hand? Next the fridge freezer in the centre console, it only works when the air conditioning compressor is engaged, probably fix one and everything should be good.

Lots of different thoughts about the exhaust, ranging from no difference to massive difference if you fit the larger turbo outlet, not done one so hang around for the guys who have BTDT.

If you can see rust it is fair to say it is always worse than it looks. When you are ready and a good tailgate is available start pulling the rusty areas apart with a sander/grinder to see the true extent of the damage, The upper is more glass than paintwork so not a lot of painting but TBH it is a fair bet the rust runs right under the rubber and once you start digging at it you get a hole, make your decision based on what you find.
regards

Dave

 

[AndycruiserguyLomas]

Welcome Ben, a very good intro.

As Dave says, it sounds like the air con pump is seized but usually the pulley free wheels when the air con isn't actuated so that will need investigating.
The exhaust 3" query will be answered by a search or other members with experience but the standard exhaust is very restrictive.
On the tailgate issue I would remove the glass and investigate from there. It may only need a local repair if the rest is sound, good second hand top tailgates are rare and expensive and add painting to match truck colour and you wont get much change from £500.

just remember we like pics

 

[clivehorridge]

Welcome Ben, Benji or Carlos, whichever suits best

It may be worth checking that the electrically operated AC compressor drive clutch is working. A snapped belt may indicate a seized compressor, but as above, if it turns by hand when switched off, try when it's switched on, it should turn by hand both times, in any event.

I would imagine that the idle-up is operated/triggered by the same electrical circuit as the compressor clutch, so the lack of idle-up could indicate a fault in the circuit.

I'm far away from being an auto electrician though, and there's much more knowledgable than me on electrickery on this forum.

Well done on the find though, good 80s are only getting rarer, and a few mechanical problems are much easier to tackle than rotted chassis and bodywork issues.

Karl Webster on here may be able to source a s/h upper tailgate, but I'd imagine that they're as rare as hen's teeth to find in good order.

 

[StarCruiser]

Hi Benji, Welcome to the friendliest Cruiser forum I know. [emoji4]

AC idle up is operated by a vacuum servo on the side of the pump which in turn has a small tube from it to a vacuum valve around the fuse box area over the LH inner wheel arch.

You should be able to see the vacuum servo pull (I think it's pull) against a part of the quadrant of the pump to bring the idle up. You can easily disconnect the clutch of the compressor on the top of it by a single wire plug. Then check fuses, or possibly the climate unit if you have it.

 

[clivehorridge]

Hi Benji, Welcome to the friendliest Cruiser forum I know. [emoji4]

AC idle up is operated by a vacuum servo on the side of the pump which in turn has a small tube from it to a vacuum valve around the fuse box area over the LH inner wheel arch.

There you go Benji, wrong again!

I told you someone more knowledgable would be along. Anyway, if the compressor isn't working, the vacuum operated idle-up won't be getting vacuum, so I was partly right if the clutch isn't working, even if for the wrong reasons

 

[StarCruiser]

Ahh, now im wrongly calling it a servo when it's correct term is an actuator. It operates on the same vacuum as the brake servo so should operate regardless of whether or not the compressor is running.

It's a bit strange that the belt was off unless it was so old and perished that it jumped off somehow. If the compressor is seized, and the belt is in good well fitted condition, the compressor clutch can slip causing a squeal and usual burning clutch smell but should drop out on the switch easy enough.

If the system is short of gas, there is a pressure switch that cuts off the compressor. That probably cuts off the idle up too so it may just be in need of a regas but I am puzzled by the belt and compressor though, it looks like it may be seized but needs looking at to determine if it is. Unfortunately mine is ATM so I cannot test what a running one is like having ignored it for the last 11 years. [emoji11]

 

[StarCruiser]

There you go Benji, wrong again!

I told you someone more knowledgable would be along. Anyway, if the compressor isn't working, the vacuum operated idle-up won't be getting vacuum, so I was partly right if the clutch isn't working, even if for the wrong reasons

As it happens Clive, not wrong at all. There's just a vacuum valve in between whose coil is most probably operated by the same circuit that brings in the compressor.

 

[adrianr]

Welcome and well done. Get those BEBs changed if you are not 100% certain they already have been.

 

[frank rabbets]

Front diffs are nearly always neglected and oil gets contaminated with grease so change the front diff oil.

 

[BenjiCarlos]

Thanks so much guys! This really is the most friendly forum I have seen in a while! What's BEB's?! I assume there is a lovely thread on her regarding front diff oil, best to use etc etc. Shall do some searching!

 

[BenjiCarlos]

I can only think of big end bearings... am I correct!? That a job a novice like moi could do? I have the original toyota engine workshop manual..

 

[StarCruiser]

Bingo! Yep, Big End Bearings. It's for peace of mind really. My 81 came in from Japan at 90,000km and after 70,000miles it's BEBs were good as new. But it doesn't mean yours will be however you have possibly got a fair bit of time before any failure is likely. It's just peace of mind (apart from wrecking the engine of course). You can do it yourself as long as you are methodical and don't mind taking your time and getting a fair bit of black oil all over you. [emoji6]

 

[BenjiCarlos]

Ooft. Is the sump nice and accessible like my old E30 BM's? I'm going to pop to an exhaust place today but the turbo downpipe, can this be made or can you buy it in a 3" form?

 

[BenjiCarlos]

Well I had a little look into the AC issue. I got a new belt, fitted it, this time not so tight. Haha The compressor turns no problem albeit not as smooth as the larger free wheel. I am getting 16mV at the little plug on the top of the compressor wether the ac button is on or off. Seems awful low? No sign of damage to the wiring what so ever? Any ideas?

I phoned the exhaust folk and they are wanting approximately 750 for a full exhaust system.. eek! Anyone know where to buy ones online?

As for BEBs.. I went to toyota and nearly cried at the price and they gave me prices for different sizes. Anyone know more about this size wise? Also stuff doing that myself, was cleaning the underneath and not so keen on getting in about all that metal!

 

[Dave2000]

I may not have made myself clear with regards the AC. The pulley on the compressor is a two piece affair, the part where the belt runs should be free to spin, the inner part is an electro magnet, this connects for want of a better word the inner and the out (belt drive) together. 16mv is a transient voltage and insufficient to operate the AC clutch or electro magnet. Get a piece of wire with a fuse in it (20 amp IIRC), take the plug off the compressor, then with the engine running connect the + of the battery to the compressor plug, the compressor should engage, if it does then release immediately. This proves the compressor clutch is good and the system is simply low on refrigerant, the pressure switch prevents the compressor running dry. If the compressor is seized the belt will squeal and eventually burn through, again a quick release will save the cost of the belt.

Be wary of belts snapping or jumping off and getting caught on something........you for example.

regards

Dave

 

[BenjiCarlos]

Perfect Dave, thanks again! Can I take a live feed to the electro magnet when the engine is off to engage it and try turn it by hand. It should go solid between the inner and outer pulley right? Or wrong? Haha

 

[BenjiCarlos]

Right, 12V supply onto the coil and it is engaging and locking the inner wheel. Gas it up tomorrow then! Thanks for the help everyone!

 

[karl webster]

Welcome to the forum.

i have the Acl bearings in stock if you need some. Feel free to drop me a pm.

 

[StarCruiser]

Karl's your man for the bearings Benji. You can get to the sump ok. Removing it requires a sump splitter tool. There's plenty of info on here about doing this. You will need plastigauge. Available in the post from the manufacturers down the road from me at Ford West Sussex. You will also need new stretch bolts from Toyota and some RTV sealant.