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New clutch and random smells and juddering.... :-(

Dave_S

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Aug 8, 2012
Messages
1,657
Okay - weird one this - clutch was slipping badly, so fired it in to my usual 4x4 garage to change the clutch. Full kit fitted. Clutch is now nice and light but....

1. I seem to be getting more noise/vibes through the gearbox that I was before.

2. The clutch drags/judders a bit at the bite point - worse in reverse, especially reversing up hill.

3. There is an intermittent strong gear oil smell - there was a breather hose split apparently, which was changed, but its still happening now and again, more noticeable when the windows are open.

Now we've only done a few hundred miles, and I'm about to throw the truck back into the garage, but the question is, what's going on - is there one thing that could be doing all of the above? I wondered, for example, if when fitting they're somehow dislodged or damaged a seal and we're getting oil on the clutch plate? Or is this normal bedding in on a vehicle with 180k miles on the clock (slightly worn flywheel bedding into a new plate?). Suspect I'm being hopeful on the latter....
 
Could it be the gearbox is running tight and that's dragging the clutch. Bit random but this happened on an old Rover I had with similar symptoms.
 
A suggestion, but a tenuous one. I had some judders like you describe, but they weren't actually coming from the clutch. I swapped the upper and lower control arm bushes and hey presto it all went. My conclusion was that being a manual (like yours) the engine braking is higer than the auto and therefore the bushes take a bit more of a beating. You can set off harder too in a manual. Since doing them it has been silky smooth. Could it be the new clutch showing this up?
 
Like your thinking Chris, tho wouldn't explain the gear oil stink - just timing/coincidence maybe. I'm swapping out the suspension shortly, so will check the control arms at the same time - thanks.
 
No, it doesn't.

I found the best way to check the bushes is to put the bolt in a vice, drop the arm on and bend it about. They looked fine to me until I did this. Oh dear. They were split, cracked and basically stuffed.
 
Dave you may have oil on your clutch. It causes juddering and if the clutch is strong it wont slip yet. I think this most unlikely though as it's impossible to damage the input shaft oil seal without taking apart the gearbox. You could however check for oil on the garage floor. Also rev it up and slip the clutch. If you get instant oil smell there is oil on the clutch rather than a breather pipe problem.
OR
Juddering could be a faulty clutch or it just needs polishing up a bit. Mine judders after standing for a fortnight due to micro' rust. I rev it up and slowly slip it to polish it. My audi did this also. It's common after a car has been standing. That leaves the oil smell outstanding though. There are breather pipes on both boxes linked to a common pipe which runs up to the top passenger side bell housing bolt. You could check with a mirror that the pipes are on.
 
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Cheers Frank. Overkill is a DD, so unlikely to be a standing issue... could be bedding in, I guess... might be worth putting another few hundred miles on it and see what happens I suppose. Will have proper look at those breathers again and see what's happening there... I know one has been replaced, but didn't twig that there was two - will have a grub about! Thanks all.
 
Sorry breather vent is on the top DRIVERS side bell housing bolt. I should rev it up and slip it to polish the clutch up a bit. The standing was an analogy. Hope it's only temporary.
 
How bad was your old clutch, did the flywheel need to be refaced? The 80 gear/transfer bundle is a bit of a heavy beast did the primary shaft get to see any excessive weight/load during removal/replacement. The gearbox rubber mount may be weak and the new clutch is showing it up, also the engine has to lay back while still bolted to the mounts and this puts a fair twist on the rubber, the movement may have finished them off? Lots of possibilities, try getting someone watch the engine while you try to pull away with the handbrake on, you may see one side lift up as the rubber is toast? Dive under with a socket set, do a couple of bolts need an extra pull on them?

Just trying to throw some ideas out there?

regards

Dave
 
Flywheel was blued, but not scored, so not replaced. Think I need to do as you suggest, start basic and work it out from there - external components first, to avoid an unnecessary strip down.... Thanks.
 
And bleed the clutch of course ..
 
Sorry - just spotted this - excuse my ignorance Chris, but why would I need to re-bleed the clutch? I may be being completely dim, but I'm not sure how that would create judder? Or am I missing something (likely!).
 
Because you should. Just like you should maintain your brakes. A periodic bleed to get rid of the crappy stuff at the end of the line is the right thing to do. But, the point was that in order to eliminate everything, bleed your clutch. That way when some knob head comes along and says "Did you bleed your clutch?" you can say, yes I did and it made F*** all difference. Takes 10 seconds. It made a difference to mine. Immediately I got a different pedal feel. 20 years and 200 000 miles with the fluid sitting there.
See?

C
 
LOL! Fair comment mate - was just confused and thought I'd missed something. Plan to go right back through it this weekend, and will bleed the system, recheck fluids, etc, etc....
 
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