Nick Shepherd
Member
- Joined
- Apr 3, 2010
- Messages
- 170
Offered here as a help to people as poor as me at electrical things, to show you can do it and that it massively improves the light output from an 80 series. I started this off by replacing the headlight unit on the driver's side and giving the passenger side a thorough washing out of all the Lincomb mud that somehow got in there in a previous existence 
I then put in Halford's Ultra Brilliance bulbs (on a BOGOF last week).
That made a big change from this:
The driving lights are KC 5x7s from Outback Automotive, the instructions that came with them were very straightforward.
Started by fitting the lights through the bumper (nuts and bolts I'm happier with).
Then on to working out where I had to splice into the headlight circuit to have the driving lights come on with my high beams. This I confirmed in several different online locations as being the thicker green/yellow wire on the right side vertical position and I was very surprised to find out it was completely wrong and the high beam is the horizontal top position that is described everywhere as being the earth. Toyota weirdness or just my car, I don't know.
The H4 connector on the right headlight.
The first (and least useful) cut
My splicing technique, probably very wrong indeed but it works.
Next was wiring the relay power to the car. Used the power outlet box first time.
There is a handy earth strap in the offside battery box that I used to mount the relay and relay earth wire.
That takes care (for now) of the front end, I now need to pull these two wires through to a switch location in the cabin. There is a very useful grommet location just under the brake servo. KC supply an amazing amount of wire, it should be noted and it all comes with well made terminals that I cut off to fit them with a little less spare wire. I reused the soft rubber terminal protection/insulation though, it was rather plush.
There is a spare switch blank between the rear heater and suspension selection switches so I drilled it out to 12mm and screwed the supplied switch onto the blanking plate. Switch earths to the console support bracket. The eagle eyed amongst you will have spotted the seeds of my later downfall. I wish I had.
That just left the connections to the lights themselves and, given the amount of wire I think you could rig these as the world's best reversing lights, if you wanted.
Switch on and the driving lights come on with the low beams. Whuh?
I go to switch the engine on so as not to drain the batteries while I work out what went wrong and I find I can't so I panic, start taking everything apart and so on. Like a div. Yes, I know that the gear selector needs to be moved back to P like it was before I got it out of the way to fit the switch.
I know now, at least
A certain amount of panic later I find the right wire (the thinnest one in the whole car, it turns out) and get everything back together again.
Light patterns:
Low beam:
High beam:
High beam with KCs:
Rabbit's eye view:
I'm happy now.
I then put in Halford's Ultra Brilliance bulbs (on a BOGOF last week).That made a big change from this:
The driving lights are KC 5x7s from Outback Automotive, the instructions that came with them were very straightforward.
Started by fitting the lights through the bumper (nuts and bolts I'm happier with).
Then on to working out where I had to splice into the headlight circuit to have the driving lights come on with my high beams. This I confirmed in several different online locations as being the thicker green/yellow wire on the right side vertical position and I was very surprised to find out it was completely wrong and the high beam is the horizontal top position that is described everywhere as being the earth. Toyota weirdness or just my car, I don't know.
The H4 connector on the right headlight.
The first (and least useful) cut
My splicing technique, probably very wrong indeed but it works.
Next was wiring the relay power to the car. Used the power outlet box first time.
There is a handy earth strap in the offside battery box that I used to mount the relay and relay earth wire.
That takes care (for now) of the front end, I now need to pull these two wires through to a switch location in the cabin. There is a very useful grommet location just under the brake servo. KC supply an amazing amount of wire, it should be noted and it all comes with well made terminals that I cut off to fit them with a little less spare wire. I reused the soft rubber terminal protection/insulation though, it was rather plush.
There is a spare switch blank between the rear heater and suspension selection switches so I drilled it out to 12mm and screwed the supplied switch onto the blanking plate. Switch earths to the console support bracket. The eagle eyed amongst you will have spotted the seeds of my later downfall. I wish I had.
That just left the connections to the lights themselves and, given the amount of wire I think you could rig these as the world's best reversing lights, if you wanted.
Switch on and the driving lights come on with the low beams. Whuh?
I go to switch the engine on so as not to drain the batteries while I work out what went wrong and I find I can't so I panic, start taking everything apart and so on. Like a div. Yes, I know that the gear selector needs to be moved back to P like it was before I got it out of the way to fit the switch.
I know now, at least
A certain amount of panic later I find the right wire (the thinnest one in the whole car, it turns out) and get everything back together again.
Light patterns:
Low beam:
High beam:
High beam with KCs:
Rabbit's eye view:
I'm happy now.
