No Compression on Clutch Pedal, won’t go into gear

[Alex King]

So after spending a lot of money getting it rego worthy, I took for a 50 mile drive the next day, drove great. Next day the clutch biting point started moving up and down and eventually had no bite point/ no resistance and wouldn’t go into gear.

In the report they mentioned the master slave cylinder was leaking so I was planning on getting this sorted but now it’s currently sat in an NRMA service centre in Marrackville.

They’re saying it’s the master slave cylinder and it needs a new clutch kit, costing $1850 all together to get this sorted. Do you reckon it’s needs a new clutch kit? Or will a new master slave cylinder fix this?

I was planning on replacing the master clutch cylinder and slave at the same time too.

 

[Ben Stratford]

It may need a new clutch but its quite possible yours will still last more time yet.
I would replace master and slave and see how you go.
If you do replace the clutch in the future Alec then do also replace the clutch release bearing, spigot bearing and crankshaft rear oil seal.
Good luck

 

[StarCruiser]

It sounds like you’ve lost enough clutch fluid to prevent the clutch pedal operating the clutch. Take some brake fluid of DOT 3 or higher, an 8mm, 10mm and 12mm spanner and a length of clear tubing with a 6mm bore. Also take a transparent bottle, enough to catch half a cup full of brake fluid.

Take an assistant and return to your truck, lift the bonnet and check the level of your clutch fluid. If it is past the low mark, fill it to well above the max mark. You will then need to bleed the clutch from the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder under the truck attached to the bell housing between the engine and gearbox. Locate the slave cylinder which is a block with a pipe going to it and a rubber bellows at the other end where it contacts a large lever going into the bell housing. Push the tube onto the bleed nipple which should be near where the pipe joins with a small hexagon on it. Put the other end of the tube in the clear bottle and ask your assistant to sit in the driver’s seat and follow your instructions to push the clutch pedal down and shout ‘down’ when you shout down, the same with ‘up’.

With the spanner on the bleed nipple, undo it a quarter to half a turn and shout ‘down’. Watch the fluid and bubbles of air get forced along the tube. When your assistant shouts ‘down’ tighten the nipple and shout ‘up’. Repeat this process a couple more times then check the level of fluid and top up to the max if necessary. Continue the process until all air is gone then leave the nipple closed and get your assistant to push the pedal down. You should see the clutch slave move the clutch lever.

This should do enough to get you home where you can decide what needs repair or replacement.

 

[Alex King]

Thanks for the advice, I was doing some research today and saw a video pretty much exactly as you described so I think that’s what I’ll be doing for sure.

Only problem is I’ve got to get it out of the garage tomorrow morning and I don’t have an assistant. Do you reckon if I just fill up the reservoir and pump the clutch a few times that’ll be alright to drive 15km home? I don’t think the cylinders leaking too bad so I’m hoping that’ll work

 

[IRLGW]

If you use low range then you can probably start it in gear. When you need to stop just knock it out of gear and use your brakes. If it doesn't want to pop out of gear then you should be able to knock the transfer box into neutral. Not Ideal but it will get you home. I'm not sure if the 60s gearbox is syncro'd but if you match the revs and change up when it 'feels right' then you can still change up without a clutch.

 

[StarCruiser]

If you top it up it will have little to no effect as it will still have air in the system. You could try topping it up and using a Gunson’s Eezi bleed
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/220934773348
then just open the bleed nipple and let fluid out into a container until it is air free. This can be done without an assistant from pressure in your tyre.
A vacuum bleeder like this is also very good and easy to use. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/282753285810

 

[Alex King]

I managed to get it home fine just by filling up the clutch reservoir, I know not the best option but it worked.

Just looking to order the new master and slave cylinders.. Do I get the master with clutch booster or without??

By the looks of it mine doesn't have a booster.

 

[StarCruiser]

Well done Alex. Every day’s a school day, I was certain that wouldn’t work.

As far as replacement goes, if they both leak you can possibly get seal kits for them. Otherwise only replace what needs replacing. By that I mean find where it is leaking and address that problem. You could find you replace master and slave cylinders and the leak is on a joint in the pipe or where the reservoir attaches. It could also depend on cost and availability. If yours doesn’t have the booster then get that one unless you really want to modify it, have the room and feel that your clutch is too heavy. I don’t know the truck but if it’s an improvement you want now is the best time to do it.

 

[Alex King]

I wasn't so sure it'd work either! I drove 15km and by the time I got home the reservoir was pretty much empty so the leaks quite severe.

I've order a new master, slave and pipe, thought I might as well whilst i'm working on it. I'm not 100% sure but seeing as I have a servo unit it looks as though the master cylinder with booster is the correct part so I got that, was only $20 extra so happy to splash out.

 

[StarCruiser]

That’s going to sort it then Alex. Just got to bolt it all up, fill with fluid and drive. Happy days.

 

[kombivan]

4WDParts in WA should be able to supply the clutch parts you need look them up on ebay last slave cilinder I got cost between 100-200 a master slave cylinder kit last one cost me $125.00 to have fitted.