NO Indicators or Hazards - Help Needed

[karl2000]

Probably still worth doing a resistance test between pin 7 and chassis ground. Might be that the resistance is just low enough for it to work OK when dry, but bad weather raises the resistance due to a dodgy connection. Maybe physically check the ground point (from that wiring diagram) and check its physically OK.

 

[Howmanygoes]

There is continuity between 7 and chassis gound.
And from 8 with hazard switch on. Goes when switch off so all good there. Had a nose around the junction box and all appears fine, though trying to locate the chassis ground point is a bit tight.

 

[karl2000]

How many ohms between 7 and ground?

 

[Howmanygoes]

How many ohms between 7 and ground?

I was struggling to get a stable connection and it then got dark. Need to have a look again at the weekend.

And this is where the earth apparently goes to......

 

[Grimbo]

Pin 8 has commonality with the remote lock ECU so that's your link between those 2 .
Run an earth from the battery with a long piece of wire and use that to give the relay a known good earth .
Almost certainly a multi plug with a bad connection giving high resistance ....sod to find especially as it's now working .

 

[Howmanygoes]

Fixed..... we /I think

Turns out there was a crushed wire near the spare wheel, an iffy connection and some water ingress into the towing 7 pin socket. Remote CL seems to be working fine now and hazard system. Cleaned up the plugs to the relay too.

Still need to address why I have so much condensation on the windscreen.

 

[Howmanygoes]

So turns out, it's fixed, was a load of bollocks....

 

[Howmanygoes]

Tested volts and ground this am.
Ground pin7 was fine

IG off. Haz SW off
Pin 1 - 0v
Pin 4 - 1.08v

IG on Haz SW off
PIN 1 - 10.98v
PIN 4 - 1.08v

So I think there is an issue with direct supply. Tested the fuse 11.97v each side of the fuse.

Maybe there is a break/short in the fuse box or along the wiring?

 

[karl2000]

Which fuse are you checking, is that the 15A one thats between the battery and pin4?

With everything switched off can you do a resistance check (ohms) between the fuse and pin4?

Agree sounds like a dodgy wire or a dodgy connection....

EDIT: just thought, the best way is probably to take that fuse out and check resistance using the fuse socket on the fuse box. (Make sure you get the right side of the fuse that goes to pin 4 on the relay!)

 

[Howmanygoes]

@karl2000 yes checking the 15a one.

I will need to knock up a length of wire to get from the fuse to pin 4. Will see what I get.

I've heard tell of the fuse boxes failing, hoping it's not that.

 

[karl2000]

Worst case you could run always run a new wire to the battery with its own inline fuse I suppose!

 

[Howmanygoes]

Update. Did some further investigation this afternoon.

Figures in red volts with engine running
Tested circuit between 15a and pin 4 nothing
Removed 15a fuse tested to ground had 12.2v one side and 1.2v the other.... something is wrong
The 5.4v is obviously an issue.

Today for the first time it was difficult to start and I had a number of dash lights on that eventually cleared themselves. Started fine after so presuming a drain somewhere.
Maybe a direct feed from the fuse box might be the answer. Will pull fuse box and check underneath first. Other suggestions welcome.

 

[karl2000]

Thanks for the update!

All points to that wire being knackered I think doesn't it?

Are you getting 14V+ when the engine is going - not just getting 12.7 are you?

How did you measure the 1.2V? Is that from one side of the fuse holder to ground, when the fuse is out?

And the 5.4V is when the fuse is in, between the fuse and pin 4?

When you say no circuit between fuse and pin 4, what do you mean - is that the one with 5.4V or have I misunderstood?

 

[Howmanygoes]

@karl2000
Didn't test the 14+ only put a new alternator in 18months ago so hope that's still ok.

1.2v tested by 15a fuse removed, multimeter to chassis earth point and what I presumed would be dead side of the fuse.

5.4 yes 15a fuse refitted.

No circuit. I attached a length of wire to the out side of the 15a fuse point (where the other half the blade would plug in) ran this to the footwell (tested cable first of course) then belled out from the cable to pin 4 should make a circuit. Nothing. Which is strange in that with the fuse fitted iam getting the 5.4v there....

 

[karl2000]

Didn't test the 14+ only put a new alternator in 18months ago so hope that's still ok.

Lets hope so!

1.2v tested by 15a fuse removed, multimeter to chassis earth point and what I presumed would be dead side of the fuse.

You'd expect 0V from there really wouldnt you? Was your flasher unit still plugged in at the other end? Wonder if

a) that fuse has a dodgy connection in the fuse box and may be shorting with something else?

b) if the flasher was plugged in, its getting a small voltage from that somehow...

5.4 yes 15a fuse refitted.

So, when the fuse is in, you check voltage on the (flasher side of) fuse and ground, and you get ~12V, but you check between pin 4 and ground and get 5.4V?

No circuit. I attached a length of wire to the out side of the 15a fuse point (where the other half the blade would plug in) ran this to the footwell (tested cable first of course) then belled out from the cable to pin 4 should make a circuit. Nothing. Which is strange in that with the fuse fitted iam getting the 5.4v there....

Not sure I understand whats going on here, but don't worry thats probably just me being thick!

So you ran a wire from the flasher side of the fuse (with no fuse connected?) to pin 4? Then what did you measure? Just not getting my head around that test!

Thanks for the info!

 

[Howmanygoes]

Update: resolved (we think) but only by pulling a new feed. High resistance and or fracture on the out feed from the 15a fuse. We shall see how long it lasts.

 

[karl2000]

Update: resolved (we think) but only by pulling a new feed. High resistance and or fracture on the out feed from the 15a fuse. We shall see how long it lasts.

Great! Probably outlast the LC!