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Noise after new clutch fit....

The noise from my damaged clutch plate was a loud rattle/clatter rather than a grating sound. Not sure if I've still got the video clips of the noise but if I can find them I'll re post them.
 
Cheers mate, that'll help a lot, i want to postpone before taking it down again, i want to make sure which route i'll go, reppair/replace the gearbox or go towards the clutch kit again.
Will wait for what you can find.
Cheers.
 
I've found the two video clips but they won't upload for some reason after several attempts. No idea why but I've been having quite a few problems with the site recently. Sorry.
 
Oops.... Can you post them to youtube and send me the link? I dont know if its doable, or against the forum rules?!
 
Oh i see, i took mine out, but doesnt seem to have such damage,
 

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I have not read the whole thread (because I physically can't), but a classic mistake when putting the box in is leaving the starter stud in place and leaving the anti roll bar bolted in place, they can both prevent a smooth straight approach when you want to align and rotate the gearbox during the install.

As an aside, was the spigot bearing replaced or even put back in?

Regards

Dave
 
Hi dave,
Yes, i replaced the spigot bearing with a brand new original. As well as the main seal,
Adel.
 
Did you remove the starter stud and lower the anti roll bar? Not doing this can collapse the bearing behind the primary shaft as mentioned by someone earlier when you are to all intents and purposes forcing the gearbox home?

Regards

Dave
 
Dave do you mean this bolt stud in the picture? If yes, then i didnt remove it, and i can't see how, as for the anti roll bar, i removed it completely. I made enough room.
 

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Dave do you mean this bolt stud in the picture? If yes, then i didnt remove it, and i can't see how, as for the anti roll bar, i removed it completely. I made enough room.


Yep that's the one, it seems to be just the right length to foul up a smooth install as the bell housing approaches the engine and the primary shaft is in the spigot bearing, the result is the gearbox/engine is not in a straight line, and then many people use the bolts to draw the engine and gearbox together, this results in pressures being applied to components inside the gearbox and of course the clutch pieces.

The stud can be removed by threading on two nuts of the correct size and locking them tightly against each other, then turning the nut nearest the bell housing in an anticlockwise direction the stud will come out.

Regards

Dave
 
thanks for the explanation dave, i see that, but this means i damaged something inside the box, some beariings maybe?
 
One should manually slide the box on until the surfaces are mated flush. Only then install the bolts. If this was done I can't see any damage would have been caused. If something jammed I don't think the bolts would close the gap up.
 
They will if someone found the box is nearly in, they then (wrongly) use the bolts to pull the gearbox home, the alignment issue is normally the clutch friction plate and spigot bearing, using the bolts tends to force the friction plate to shift into the correct position as does rocking the gearbox from side to side/up and down, think about the amount of leverage and weight you have at your disposal.

A conservative guess I would say I have fitted over a thousand clutches over 50 years? And yes I did in the early learning days fit not one but two clutch plates in back to front, and of course used bolts to pull the gearbox home but, they were Ford Anglia's and Cortina's but never done any damage because the clutch plate would easily move into correct alignment with a bit of jiggling, but with heavy vehicles such as trucks and 4x4's the clutch pressure plate applies much more force, so damage can occur if alignment is not right, as an aside with newer vehicles now fitted with 'for life' clutches they rarely fail, but the damned dual mass flywheels do!!

regards

Dave
 
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