G
Guest
Guest
JB wrote...
So are my birfields not being used unless I put a load on them on a
slippery surface.
SNIP
Yes that is the point, you can't check them for noise caused by wear by
running on tarmac. When you were out with your LR playmates your 80 did
what you expected it to do. All the wheels turned under power when you were
bog hopping. That is what you expect from 'full-time 4WD'. But that was
only cos there was a demand on the transmission and you probably had the
central difflock engaged too. That would have been the day to have heard
the birfields clicking.
Elsewhere you wrote that difflocks were needed for slippery conditions.
That is a simplification I would take exception to. I get around OK through
peat bogs in mountain valleys with no difflocks, so do others driving the
office fleet of various Toyotas. Only the 3 Prado's have a central difflock
and we tell all staff to leave it well alone. Its more about experience and
driving style than needing the right bolt-ons. Again in the aid industry we
keep vehicles simple to ease field servicing. It must also be remembered
that one should not underestimate the value of snowchains in mud,
especially now we have the quick fitting type of chains that can be put on
the tyre when one should be unfortunate enough to get stuck, though putting
them on before entering the bog is preferable.
JB then wrote...
Now I am confused, just when I thought I was getting to know things.
SNIP
No you are not JB. But some of our mates have been having a bit of fun
winding you up with
their comments ;o)
JB then wrote...
Track rod Ok got that. what is it for.
SNIP
Pleased it is OK JB, that at least is one thing less you will have to worry
about. It is the link that transmits steering movement from the side of the
chassis with the steering box over to the other side and then the end of
the axle where the other ball joint is. Wear on it is critical as it
affects the toe-in of the wheels. So when you get the steering 'tracked',
in essence you are checking the adjustment of the track rod. This
adjustment is by turning the rod in relation to the swivel joints at the
end. If the rod is not the right length or the swivels are worn, then you
get uneven front tyre wear. This is why you fail the annual inspection if
the rubber boots round the swivel show any signs of cracking or perishing.
As that sort of damage will allow water into the sealed joint and it will
soon wear dangerously. Fortunately the swivels or 'track rod ends' are not
too expensive to replace. But you can't put them in by guesstimate for the
adjustment. Put them in the same number of exposed threads as the old ones
by all means. But then immediately get the 80 'tracked' again to ensure
adjustment is dead on for toe-in. Unfortunately its not so easy for 4WD's
as it is for a Mondeo. There are so many variants on the geometry of 4WD
steering that you usually have to take it either to your Yaris mechanic
;o))) or a specialist who can do 4WD's, which usually have to be strapped
down onto the rig to get the suspension about mid-way in its movement to
set it at an average adjustment. (That's the car strapped down, not the
mechanic). It gives the Yaris man an opportunity to call it a 'steering
alignment service' and rush you for about 200 euros instead of the more
usual 50 euros down at quick fit for the Mondeo. Though I am sure many on
the list take the Toy to the cheaper option.
Sleep well my friend.
Cheers
Jon
Grand Union Canal
'92 HZJ80 ex UN surplus from Bosnia, with dickey steering damper. Mk1
Pajero, with steering pulling slightly to the left and steering wheel at
about 12.30 after a cheap 'tracking' service
(
So are my birfields not being used unless I put a load on them on a
slippery surface.
SNIP
Yes that is the point, you can't check them for noise caused by wear by
running on tarmac. When you were out with your LR playmates your 80 did
what you expected it to do. All the wheels turned under power when you were
bog hopping. That is what you expect from 'full-time 4WD'. But that was
only cos there was a demand on the transmission and you probably had the
central difflock engaged too. That would have been the day to have heard
the birfields clicking.
Elsewhere you wrote that difflocks were needed for slippery conditions.
That is a simplification I would take exception to. I get around OK through
peat bogs in mountain valleys with no difflocks, so do others driving the
office fleet of various Toyotas. Only the 3 Prado's have a central difflock
and we tell all staff to leave it well alone. Its more about experience and
driving style than needing the right bolt-ons. Again in the aid industry we
keep vehicles simple to ease field servicing. It must also be remembered
that one should not underestimate the value of snowchains in mud,
especially now we have the quick fitting type of chains that can be put on
the tyre when one should be unfortunate enough to get stuck, though putting
them on before entering the bog is preferable.
JB then wrote...
Now I am confused, just when I thought I was getting to know things.
SNIP
No you are not JB. But some of our mates have been having a bit of fun
winding you up with
their comments ;o)
JB then wrote...
Track rod Ok got that. what is it for.
SNIP
Pleased it is OK JB, that at least is one thing less you will have to worry
about. It is the link that transmits steering movement from the side of the
chassis with the steering box over to the other side and then the end of
the axle where the other ball joint is. Wear on it is critical as it
affects the toe-in of the wheels. So when you get the steering 'tracked',
in essence you are checking the adjustment of the track rod. This
adjustment is by turning the rod in relation to the swivel joints at the
end. If the rod is not the right length or the swivels are worn, then you
get uneven front tyre wear. This is why you fail the annual inspection if
the rubber boots round the swivel show any signs of cracking or perishing.
As that sort of damage will allow water into the sealed joint and it will
soon wear dangerously. Fortunately the swivels or 'track rod ends' are not
too expensive to replace. But you can't put them in by guesstimate for the
adjustment. Put them in the same number of exposed threads as the old ones
by all means. But then immediately get the 80 'tracked' again to ensure
adjustment is dead on for toe-in. Unfortunately its not so easy for 4WD's
as it is for a Mondeo. There are so many variants on the geometry of 4WD
steering that you usually have to take it either to your Yaris mechanic
;o))) or a specialist who can do 4WD's, which usually have to be strapped
down onto the rig to get the suspension about mid-way in its movement to
set it at an average adjustment. (That's the car strapped down, not the
mechanic). It gives the Yaris man an opportunity to call it a 'steering
alignment service' and rush you for about 200 euros instead of the more
usual 50 euros down at quick fit for the Mondeo. Though I am sure many on
the list take the Toy to the cheaper option.
Sleep well my friend.
Cheers
Jon
Grand Union Canal
'92 HZJ80 ex UN surplus from Bosnia, with dickey steering damper. Mk1
Pajero, with steering pulling slightly to the left and steering wheel at
about 12.30 after a cheap 'tracking' service
(
