Don't like the adverts?  Click here to remove them

OEM Rear locker question

Ian Rubie

Moderator
Joined
Feb 24, 2010
Messages
925
Country Flag
uk
I know someone who is trying to replace a faulty rear locker actuator. He says the new actuator works fine while not connected to the diff, but as soon as it's bolted up it stops. I have no further details than stops.

The only thing I can think of is the actuator and diff are not fully "in-sync". I have suggested he attaches the shaft and cycles the actuator before mounting it.

Any other suggestions?

Cheers

Ian

EDIT : Is this the first technical question on the forum?
 
When you say it works fine when not connected to the diff, is it connected to the truck electrics and just not bolted in place, or is this powering it from a battery or something?
 
Sorry Jon, it is connected to the vehicle loom but not bolted into place.

Ian
 
How do they know it stops? I mean is it just because the light doesn't stop flashing, or are they not hearing the motor working?
 
That is the bit I don't know, the car is at a "Toyota Specialist" garage and they have fed back to the owner who is not in the slightest bit technical.
 
Ah, well the possibilities are endless, nearly :(

They could mean that the light doesn't stop flashing, could be a broken wire on the lock sensor switch.

There could be corrosion on the diff mating surface transfered from the old actuator foot plate - different metals and all that - if it's not cleaned off properly and the actuator doesn't sit quite right it can't push the locking collar because it's pushing at an angle.

If the same place diagnosed the original problem there could be a fault with their original diagnosis - i.e. the fault lies in the locking fork, collar, drive shaft (twisted splines anyone? not heard of a case of this on the 100 yet though) or they're miffed they didn't get to mark up an OEM UK price :shock:

Is said specialist located near anyone useful?
 
Don't like the adverts?  Click here to remove them
The garage is in Oxted, north Surrey. I will give them a call tomorrow and get some info 1st hand.

Thanks for the suggestions.

Ian
 
It is all a bit of a mystery. I spoke to the garage who repeated that the actuator worked while not bolted to the axle but did not while attached. On further questioning I discovered that when it was bolted to the axle they could hear the motor but the lock was not locking. It was definately not locking, not just an indicator problem.

The truck was brought to me today for a quick look. When it arrived here there was no noise from the actuator motor. I removed the actuator from the axle and it still did not work. While the actuator was out I pressed the indicator switch and got a solid diff lock light.

With the actuator out I put 12v directly into the connector and it moved in and out. I did not have a wiring diagram but by trial and error discovered which two pins needed the 12v supply. On the connector there are 5 pins, they are arranged in a row of 3 and a row of 2. I was applying 12v across the row of 2. By reversing the voltage the actuator moved the other way.

The garage have apparently replaced the diff lock ecu and rewired the whole circuit. I got as far as checking the fuse which was OK. I was slightly concerned that the new actuator now has chewed up screws on the cover.

The truck is off to Morocco shortly, hopefully he won't need his rear locker!

Cheers

Ian
 
when you took the actuator off, what condition was the surface of the diff in where the foot plate mounts against the diff? The actuator not sitting perfectly square can be a problem. I'm assuming they had remembered to bolt the selector fork to the actuator rod ...

Sounds like they've now had the actuator apart and have mucked up refitting the bits that detect the position of the gearbox internals?
 
The surface was a bit grubby, I cleaned it up ref your earlier post. The rod was bolted to the fork.

My concern is the actuator is now not working from the truck loom. I think they have screwed it up, why oh why would you take apart a brand new working actuator :x
 
Maybe they thought they would be able to see what was wrong :cry: If 'all' they have done is put it back together out of sync then it should be possible to make it work again.
 
Cheers for all your help with this Ian. Did need it in Morocco in the desert when i got stuck and all the power went to the rear nearside wheel with the least resistance - frustrating as I had a load of grip on the rear offside. Keen to get this fixed and, as Ian says, I haven't a clue. Anyone got any bright ideas?

Graham

P.S. Got some excellent wading in Morocco - video to follow!
 
grahamnaismith said:
Anyone got any bright ideas?
Don't go back to that 'specialist' again? Sorry, couldn't resist the cheap shot.

With the FSM to hand it should be pretty simple to test if a) the position sensors on the actuator are working correctly and b) the truck loom is behaving correctly. That should mean just needing a decent auto electrician rather than a Landcruiser specialist. You need to establish both of those things, correct either of them if need be and then there is probably still the original problem to solve :( Hopefully a forum member in your area can suggest a good place to take your truck to get it fixed.
 
Back
Top