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Oil pressure gauge...

clivehorridge

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Over the years on this forum, many have posted about gauges not performing properly, and I've always been relieved that mine appeared to be ok.

This morning, it was my turn, I fired up the truck and noticed that the oil gauge didn't respond. It raised itself off the stop but barely made it to the first (low) line. Usually, it pitches just under the third line when cold, and as it warms it settles half way between the low and middle line on idle.

At running speed, it's usually on or just below the middle line.

On the way home this evening, it was a needle width above the low line, looking horrible, but the engine sounds just like always, no louder, no overheating, no knocks, smooth and ordinary.

I'm convinced there's nothing wrong with the oil pressure, but what is it that usually goes, is it the gauge or the sender.

It is due an oil change, so I'm considering having a new Mr. T sender installed, any other comments?
 
Try cleaning the terminals on the sender first Clive.

Thanks for the tip, but just to really show my ignorance, is the sender close to the dip stick? I've seen a connector there, is that the one to check?

If not, I may need a photo... :?
 
LOL Clive you're supposed to stop immediately when you have no pressure :icon-biggrin:. That's why modern cars have no gauges......nobody takes any notice.
 
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LOL Clive you're supposed to stop immediately when you have no pressure :icon-biggrin:. That's why modern cars have no gauges......nobody takes any notice.

I know Frank, I know.

All the way home the truck was in silence, I was listening out for anything abnormal. My daughter was really peeved she couldn't have her music on or even speak the whole journey. :lol:
 
LOL Clive you're supposed to stop immediately when you have no pressure :icon-biggrin:. That's why modern cars have no gauges......nobody takes any notice.


When I had my Disco a few years back it had no OP, boost or EGT gauges and I never even thought about potential engine issues from low OP or high EGT's or over boost etc, despite thrashing it up and down the motorways to Scotland and back while towing the boat. Now I have them in the LC I watch them all the time!! I've heard them referred to as "worry gauges", think I know why :laughing-rolling:
 
When I had my Disco a few years back it had no OP, boost or EGT gauges and I never even thought about potential engine issues from low OP or high EGT's or over boost etc, despite thrashing it up and down the motorways to Scotland and back while towing the boat. Now I have them in the LC I watch them all the time!! I've heard them referred to as "worry gauges", think I know why :laughing-rolling:

I normally watch for pressure on start-up, which is how I spotted it wasn't working this morning. I'm sure it was ok Friday night, the last time I drove it before this morning.

I've thought of fitting a proper pressure gauge, the problem is where to mount it. I've got too much clutter already for my liking... :icon-rolleyes:
 
I fitted a capillary gauge a few years back when the OE gauge started acting the goat, originally intended as a temp measure until the OE got fixed but it's still in there, mounted in a home made pod together with the EGT gauge just below the dash ahead of the gear stick. Not ideal but I didn't want to carve up the dash or have a pod stuck on top. A pillar pod would be good but I couldn't find one for a RHD 80 for reasonable money.


Edit.
Just realised thats a fib. The EGT and Boost gauges are mounted together in that pod. The OP gauge is in a similar position on the other side of the centre console just out of shot:

P9020008.JPG
 
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I fitted a capillary gauge a few years back when the OE gauge started acting the goat, originally intended as a temp measure until the OE got fixed but it's still in there, mounted in a home made pod together with the EGT gauge just below the dash ahead of the gear stick. Not ideal but I didn't want to carve up the dash or have a pod stuck on top. A pillar pod would be good but I couldn't find one for a RHD 80 for reasonable money.


Edit.
Just realised thats a fib. The EGT and Boost gauges are mounted together in that pod. The OP gauge is in a similar position on the other side of the centre console just out of shot:

View attachment 24916

Thanks for posting, that doesn't look bad, TBH.

I'll have to consider something similar. I only need the one with no turbo to worry about... :thumbup:
 
One of the few cock ups Mr T made with the 80 IMO, no oil pressure light in conjunction with the gauge. I put a T in the line and now have an oil light/buzzer and an ACCURATE OE gauge. In my MUD thread I explain the adjustment procedure of the sender. TBH, I did get OTT with calibration of the sender AND the gauge. I am not happy having duplicate gauges, I don't see the point, one working perfectly is all you need. But, FWIW I fitted the oil light pressure switch with a 20 psi rating, and a buzzer, this is because I spend less time looking at the dash and more on the road, so a gauge slowly failing may not be noticed. If you switch on the ignition Clive with the two wires from the sender connected together you should see FSD, this would point to a new sender being needed, or if you have the time take out and recalibrate the one you have.

TIP: I bent a 14mm spanner midway about 60 degrees, which makes removal a breeze.

regards

Dave
 
One of the few cock ups Mr T made with the 80 IMO, no oil pressure light in conjunction with the gauge. I put a T in the line and now have an oil light/buzzer and an ACCURATE OE gauge. In my MUD thread I explain the adjustment procedure of the sender. TBH, I did get OTT with calibration of the sender AND the gauge. I am not happy having duplicate gauges, I don't see the point, one working perfectly is all you need. But, FWIW I fitted the oil light pressure switch with a 20 psi rating, and a buzzer, this is because I spend less time looking at the dash and more on the road, so a gauge slowly failing may not be noticed. If you switch on the ignition Clive with the two wires from the sender connected together you should see FSD, this would point to a new sender being needed, or if you have the time take out and recalibrate the one you have. TIP: I bent a 14mm spanner midway about 60 degrees, which makes removal a breeze. regards Dave

Showing my ignorance again here, but what's FSD Dave? Is it rude?

Good tip 'bout the bent spanner though, may find that useful :thumbup:
 
FSD = Full Scale Deflection, i.e. a max oil pressure reading. Also of note while I am here Clive, good oil pressure is not a true indication of the oil level being correct.

regards

Dave
 
FSD = Full Scale Deflection, i.e. a max oil pressure reading. Also of note while I am here Clive, good oil pressure is not a true indication of the oil level being correct.

regards

Dave

Ooooh, that's a posh way to describe the needle going to the max, like it :lol:

Ha, I did check the oil level Dave, first stop it was, then I went round kicking the tires, but that didn't improve things at the gauge either... :?

Should have hit the truck with a tree branch, but couldn't put my hands on one at the time :lol:
 
I guessed you had checked the oil Clive, unfortunately the teacher in me keeps trying to teach others who also may be reading this thread and who are not so savvy with their cars, I mean well but it can also be construed as being a little condescending which really is not the case.

Anyway, I hope the info helped...and Mr Fawlty AKA John Cleese at his best. :icon-biggrin:

regards

Dave
 
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On some of the old 6 cylinder Jaguars there was a switch sensed pressure build up on cranking and allowed the engine to start. Low pressure = no spark. Obviously it also cut the engine if the oil pressure dropped. I think it was set at only 4 psi.
 
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