As you may know, I have just bought a replacement for my 80 that burned out. It's an auto, VX, 1994 4.2.
Now I bought it knowing that it had a drive problem - that's what I got it with 69,000 on the clock and decent bodywork, for a good price.
I do have the salvage from the other vehicle sitting on the drive. I am really really trying to avoid having to pull both boxes and swap my good one into the new truck. Easy in a garage with a hoist and a bunch of mechanics, but me on my own on the drive? I thank you, err but not if I can avoid it.
The issue is that it won't drive. It will go backwards just like normal. But in D it just sort of creep, occasionally. In low box it can be moved a bit. It makes no difference if I wiggle the stick or go from R to D quickly or if I put it in L or 2. There's none of that characteristic bump as you go into gear and when you rev, the engine revs freely
What do I know? Well I have spent the day removing the valve block as per JW's excellent sticky write up. What I noticed under the bonnet was that the throttle position sensor cable was fully pulled out and jammed. Having removed the valve block, I then sorted the TPS cable. Hooray, got it moving fine. BTW for those who may face this job, you CAN replace the cable without having to remove the VB. I know 'cos I have just done it. A little twiddly, but you can.
So I had a good clean up and a look see. Nothing obvious, no teeth lying in the oil pan etc.
But, oddly there was a repair to the corner of the pan. Looked like it had been brazed. Some of the bolts were not that tight so I suspect that this has been off at some point. The car is really straight in most places and then in others there has definitely been some shenanigans going on. Propshaft nut missing, T case bashplate got a bolt missing.
When you move the lever into any gear, the light on the dash doesn't come on. You have to ease the lever up on the detent position and then it comes on. No, it doesn't get drive when you do that.
So, has my day's work had any effect at all? NOPE, NADA, ZIP, NOT A SAUSAGE
JW was available for help on the phone and made some suggestions I haven't had much success to date
Clean and inspect the bundle of connectors above the starter. Man, have you ever tried to get in there. I got one undone. I think I shall have to drop the starter to get to them
Test the solenoids in the VB for function by pitting 12v across them and see if they open and shut. Well without six arms I struggled with that Jon. When I put 12v onto the spade connector and earth to the body, noting happened at all. No click, no vibration nothing. Simply couldn't do the air test at the same time. Maybe I was trying to energise them wrongly. I don't know. Obviously swapping the whole VB from my white truck would be pretty easy if it would make a difference.
Clean the contacts on the end of the selector shaft. I haven't tried this yet. But will do. Just had enough today.
So there it is. Is it guaranteed to work if I swapped the box over? What if it turns out to be the ECU? Well there is no fault light flashing on the dash. I shall use the old jump wire technique on the diagnostics to see if there are any fault codes tomorrow.
Overall, a disappointing day after really hoping that the TPS would have made at least some difference.
So, any suggestions for the pot guys? Oh, please don't ask if it has enough ATF in it. I've seen enough fluid recently to float a battleship. I'm not being lazy here guys, I have been reading the FSM but I'm not an auto specialist and I know that some of have brains the size of planets. I don't know how the system all works so it's difficult to know what to try beyond staring at it.
As I say, it seems to reverse fine. Internals look undamaged ans all the slidey bits slid nicely. Engine oil changed, fuel filter done, all belts etc engine running like a sewing machine. This has only 70k on the clock, so I do feel that the box itself being shagged is highly unlikely. The driver's seat isn't even worn through.
Ideas on a post card to ......
Chris
Now I bought it knowing that it had a drive problem - that's what I got it with 69,000 on the clock and decent bodywork, for a good price.
I do have the salvage from the other vehicle sitting on the drive. I am really really trying to avoid having to pull both boxes and swap my good one into the new truck. Easy in a garage with a hoist and a bunch of mechanics, but me on my own on the drive? I thank you, err but not if I can avoid it.
The issue is that it won't drive. It will go backwards just like normal. But in D it just sort of creep, occasionally. In low box it can be moved a bit. It makes no difference if I wiggle the stick or go from R to D quickly or if I put it in L or 2. There's none of that characteristic bump as you go into gear and when you rev, the engine revs freely
What do I know? Well I have spent the day removing the valve block as per JW's excellent sticky write up. What I noticed under the bonnet was that the throttle position sensor cable was fully pulled out and jammed. Having removed the valve block, I then sorted the TPS cable. Hooray, got it moving fine. BTW for those who may face this job, you CAN replace the cable without having to remove the VB. I know 'cos I have just done it. A little twiddly, but you can.
So I had a good clean up and a look see. Nothing obvious, no teeth lying in the oil pan etc.
But, oddly there was a repair to the corner of the pan. Looked like it had been brazed. Some of the bolts were not that tight so I suspect that this has been off at some point. The car is really straight in most places and then in others there has definitely been some shenanigans going on. Propshaft nut missing, T case bashplate got a bolt missing.
When you move the lever into any gear, the light on the dash doesn't come on. You have to ease the lever up on the detent position and then it comes on. No, it doesn't get drive when you do that.
So, has my day's work had any effect at all? NOPE, NADA, ZIP, NOT A SAUSAGE
JW was available for help on the phone and made some suggestions I haven't had much success to date
Clean and inspect the bundle of connectors above the starter. Man, have you ever tried to get in there. I got one undone. I think I shall have to drop the starter to get to them
Test the solenoids in the VB for function by pitting 12v across them and see if they open and shut. Well without six arms I struggled with that Jon. When I put 12v onto the spade connector and earth to the body, noting happened at all. No click, no vibration nothing. Simply couldn't do the air test at the same time. Maybe I was trying to energise them wrongly. I don't know. Obviously swapping the whole VB from my white truck would be pretty easy if it would make a difference.
Clean the contacts on the end of the selector shaft. I haven't tried this yet. But will do. Just had enough today.
So there it is. Is it guaranteed to work if I swapped the box over? What if it turns out to be the ECU? Well there is no fault light flashing on the dash. I shall use the old jump wire technique on the diagnostics to see if there are any fault codes tomorrow.
Overall, a disappointing day after really hoping that the TPS would have made at least some difference.
So, any suggestions for the pot guys? Oh, please don't ask if it has enough ATF in it. I've seen enough fluid recently to float a battleship. I'm not being lazy here guys, I have been reading the FSM but I'm not an auto specialist and I know that some of have brains the size of planets. I don't know how the system all works so it's difficult to know what to try beyond staring at it.
As I say, it seems to reverse fine. Internals look undamaged ans all the slidey bits slid nicely. Engine oil changed, fuel filter done, all belts etc engine running like a sewing machine. This has only 70k on the clock, so I do feel that the box itself being shagged is highly unlikely. The driver's seat isn't even worn through.
Ideas on a post card to ......
Chris
I would check the resistance between the gearbox (any clean bit of the casing) and the chassis to make sure the fault isn't just a bad earth (long shot but ...). It's unlikely to be the solenoids if they're all showing similarly high readings IMO but not impossible. I'm sure I've read of rodents having chewed through some of those wires before now.
