Proud new owner and setting myself a list of jobs to do now

[Steve-o1987]

Give it a quick clean up and run out - jobs for this week are AT tyre shopping and replacing the disgusting old head unit! Trying to decide on a decent single din or maybe a double?

Also gonna stock up on some service items. Had service around 3k miles ago but for extra piece of mind wanna do a few bits and make sure all genuine items ( I’ve got ocd like that ) gonna go for the usual filters, change out the coolant too, diff oils, grease up some bits, engine oil. Brake fluid also.

Couple of questions now, ATF. Fluid was changed looking at receipts around 50k miles ago. Upon inspection it looks pretty clean to me and gear changes are very smooth. Should I leave this for now or do I get it done for piece of mind? And any recommendations for genuine parts suppliers?

Thanks, Steve

 

[Higgy]

Looking good Steve.. If the ATF fluid has been done and you have proof with invoices, Id leave it mate, it will be fine ( If it aint broke dont fix it). Id change Engine oil and filter and Fuel filter for Peace of mind.. Even if it says its been done id do it , Then you know its been done.. Get underneath and Grease the prop shaft U/Js Just 3 or 4 squirts with the grease gun, Just as a formality Really.. I got a nice JVC Double din head unit with MP3- Ipod and all the trimmings for under 100 quid from Halfrauds... When the time comes New Discs Pads Calipers can be found on ebay Or Rough Trax/ Milners Relatively Cheap.... Id enjoy the Truck and do things as and when, Dont think you need to rush into things Right away.. Unless they are knackered Obviously.....Other members will have a different approach, Its up to you Really, Id enjoy it for a bit at First.

 

[diggerdave]

Careful check of radiator - replace if in any doubt. If these let go then coolant gets mixed with the ATF killing the autobox (this is not a problem unique to LCs but to any car where the rad also serves as the ATF cooler).

Lower ball joints at the front are highly stressed and I'd recommend a thorough check and budget for replacement if you have no evidence of it being done. If they separate, the front wheel collapses. Use high quality replacements

Apart from that I'd say rust is the main concern. LC's are very durable in this respect but they are all getting on a bit. Check the sills, especially towards the rear wheels, and make sure the multiple drain holes are clear (they're in the seam at the base of the sill).

Also check the rear axle and the rear part of the chassis. There are two towers on the rear axle case that support the upper suspension arms. They have drain holes at the base on the front and rear of each tower. Make sure they are free-draining as they get blocked easily and are partially responsible for the towers rotting from the inside out and tales of woe that you'll see regularly on this website. It can be repaired, but avoidance is best.

Any problems with fuel supply (hard starting) is likely to be the fuel lines where they connect with the fuel tank - a notorious grot spot because, like the rear axle, it's exposed to a lot of road salt/mud. (I'm not sure this happens as much with D4D engines?)

Rear diff locks frequently don't work - they rot and seize internally. Usually the only answer is to replace the unit (£400 new) and it is often a pig of a job, but can be done (see numerous threads on the subject). If you don't need it, then don't worry about it but it's a fantastic get-out-of-jail card if you are a greenlaner.

Your local Toyota dealer, Roughtrax and Milners for parts, check Amayama for OE parts when Mr. T's prices make you wince.

Good luck and enjoy - these are fantastic, durable, versatile cars.

 

[Shayne]

Whats is it 19 years old with 160k miles on the clock so most bushes will be ready for replacing .

Transfer box oil is separate from gearbox and often ignored , change the diff oils and with all that done and because it has aging underseal a visit to Krown rustproofing .

 

[Shayne]

D4D 90 series is identical apart from the engine Dave which as far as i'm aware didnt inherit the cooling problems we suffer with the 1KZ

 

[Steve-o1987]

Careful check of radiator - replace if in any doubt. If these let go then coolant gets mixed with the ATF killing the autobox (this is not a problem unique to LCs but to any car where the rad also serves as the ATF cooler).

Lower ball joints at the front are highly stressed and I'd recommend a thorough check and budget for replacement if you have no evidence of it being done. If they separate, the front wheel collapses. Use high quality replacements

Apart from that I'd say rust is the main concern. LC's are very durable in this respect but they are all getting on a bit. Check the sills, especially towards the rear wheels, and make sure the multiple drain holes are clear (they're in the seam at the base of the sill).

Also check the rear axle and the rear part of the chassis. There are two towers on the rear axle case that support the upper suspension arms. They have drain holes at the base on the front and rear of each tower. Make sure they are free-draining as they get blocked easily and are partially responsible for the towers rotting from the inside out and tales of woe that you'll see regularly on this website. It can be repaired, but avoidance is best.

Any problems with fuel supply (hard starting) is likely to be the fuel lines where they connect with the fuel tank - a notorious grot spot because, like the rear axle, it's exposed to a lot of road salt/mud. (I'm not sure this happens as much with D4D engines?)

Rear diff locks frequently don't work - they rot and seize internally. Usually the only answer is to replace the unit (£400 new) and it is often a pig of a job, but can be done (see numerous threads on the subject). If you don't need it, then don't worry about it but it's a fantastic get-out-of-jail card if you are a greenlaner.

Your local Toyota dealer, Roughtrax and Milners for parts, check Amayama for OE parts when Mr. T's prices make you wince.

Good luck and enjoy - these are fantastic, durable, versatile cars.

Great post Dave! Appreciate the time you took, very informative. Have receipt of new radiator put in not long ago, had a look anyway to check the levels and all A’s should be. So one less things to change. That was one of the first things I was gonna do if not already done.

Rust situation isn’t too bad at all, sills are good. The old under seal is long over due so that’s another job but waiting till around February March when I’ve got time for that.

Ah fair point also Shayne, forgot myself there about transfer oil. May as well get that done with the other bits. Nice to know nothing major needs doing and I can enjoy the truck for now

Ohhh on a side note does anyone know if the injector seals are an issue on this particular engine?

 

[diggerdave]

D4D 90 series is identical apart from the engine Dave which as far as i'm aware didnt inherit the cooling problems we suffer with the 1KZ

I agree, you never seem to hear about overheating/head issues in D4ds.

My only query is as to whether the D4d has the same fuel and return system that 1KZ-TEs have, where a pinhole in the return line can lead to the fuel in the supply line leaking back to the tank meaning hard starting because the engine needs to reprime the fuel system each time it's started. I think common rail systems are 'sealed' from the return fuel line with a valve? Not my area of expertise though and I might have it all wrong! And you'd still get problems with a common rail system (presumably) if there was a pinhole in the supply pipe, so the grot-spot on top of the tank is still a concern.

 

[Shayne]

I think though i maybe wrong its reference to early D4D faults but D4D is a bit of a generic term so i'm thinking the 2KD suffered injector seal fail rather than the 1KD you have .

 

[Juddian]

Replacing auto box oil on these is as simple as an engine oil change.
On simple changes like these i usually drop one sumpful a year and replenish (via the dipstick tube), that's roughly 4 or 5 litres at a time, doing it like this no need to worry about complete oil change all at once.

Worth nipping the cambelt cover off and inspecting the belt, easy job so if it's not looking its best get a kit and do it, simple DIY...all cambelts should be as easy to replace as these.

Overall i'm a big fan of the 90.