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Rear Axle Leaking Oil Seal & Possible Wheel Bearing

sae70

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Toyota Land Cruiser Colorado & Prado 90/95 Rear Axle Wheel Bearing and Oil seals

Sorry for the title, but even though I've now removed the N/S rear half shaft on Fiery to start my investigations as to where the oil is coming from and why! I still have not managed to find any detail as to how one goes about removing the bearing from the housing and the ABS rotor. Apart from people talking of hours of sweat and toil with grinders, chisels and big hammers and the occasional mention of an illusive SST!! So I hope that my title will bring others with more info and hopefully photos a plenty via Google to expand this thread into the future.

It starts like this for me, 07/08/2010 buy Fiery :D

Then a couple of months later post this thread Please have a look @ these pics of Fierys rear hub & advise

The crux of it was that my N/S rear brake drum was full of black greasy gunk and looked like this;

PA040663.jpg


PA040665.jpg


PA040664.jpg


The up shot of what I did was empty a couple of cans of brake cleaner into and around the effected area until all trace of dirt and grease had been removed and popped it all back together, leaving the original brake shoes in situ as they cleaned up very well.

Some time between then and now I've fitted new brake shoes and had the drums off more times than I'd care to mention adjusting and fiddling with the handbrake!!!! Not noticed any major grease or oil ingress into the brake drum area since, although I've noted a damp oily stain creeping from the rear of the hub along the rear axle tube moving toward the Diff!!!

Photos taken this morning coming up for two years since I gave it all a good clean;

IMG_0893.jpg


IMG_0894.jpg


IMG_0895.jpg


Look familiar to anyone?

Fridayman, Oil on rear brake :D ;)

Had some spare time today, the kids were playing nicely in the garden and the sun was out, so out with the tools :)

It didn't take very long to get it all jacked up and apart, probably under a couple of hours, maybe less. And this is what I found, the inner seal must be faulty as there was a good egg cup full of gear oil between it and the bearing that fell out, luckily I'd pre planned and was ready for it, managing to save the drive this time. It was clear that either the outer seal or the 'O' ring had also failed as the oil that fell out was clearly contaminated with dirt/mud. Upon inspection I found a gap in the 'O' ring.

IMG_0909.jpg


In-fact quite a large one as you can see :? :think:

It's clear to me that someone has been in here before me due to marks on machined faces, but hey its a 14year old 170,000mile vehicle. I do have a theory surrounding the gap in the 'O' ring though, two years ago when I first discovered this oily mess someone suggested that it may be the 'O' ring at fault, so I ordered one from Milners in among another order of service parts. By the time it had arrived I'd done the clean up thing and put it all back together so I put the 'O' ring in the shed till this morning. As Fridayman discovered, its way to big and I wonder if whomever has been in here before had the same trouble but decided to cut and glue it to solve the problem and over time it has become unglued and shrunk a bit, hence the large gap :think:

IMG_0910.jpg


So now that the shaft is out, lets talk about the bearing. It feels to me to be smooth with no play, no lumps in its rotation, in-fact it's as smooth as a babies bottom. You can imagine that I'm reluctant to muck about with it, but my concern is that I've read of others suggesting that the gear oil will have washed through the bearing removing the bearings grease in the process!!!

Is this possible?

It's a sealed bearing isn't it?

So surely nothing can get in or out for that matter :think: :?

I guess there must be a way for the gear oil to get past the bearing to the outer seal else you wouldn't get this;

PA040663.jpg


Would you?

I'm not so sure, as I think that the outer seal is to stop dust and shite getting in not oil getting out!

I think that you get what you see in the above photo due to the gear oil leaking down the back of the hub into the bottom of the drum and then being thrown around inside while on the move. If not, then how's the gear oil getting passed the press fitted sealed bearing?

Nearly two years down the road from first discovering my oil leak and giving it a good clean then, this is what the inside of my brake drum looks like;

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Dry and muddy :)

Except for this at the bottom front of the backing plate, slowly creeping up;

IMG_0904.jpg


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So looks as though my outer seal may be OK then, or is it?! The oil may just not be getting past there due to the huge bit of the 'O' ring missing thus any leaked oil is escaping before it has a chance to push past the sealed bearing and out of the outer seal. The bearing may just be so smooth because its full of lovely slick gear oil. Now I'm worried :shifty: :think: Lol :)

I'd be interested in the thoughts from others, in particular the sealed bearing thing, sealed is sealed, right?
 
When this happened to mine i took it down to Julian Voelcker, there we stripped it right down and removed the bearing to find that the
diff oil had flushed the bearing of grease and so part of it was broken up. Eventually the bearing would of clapesed or seized. When i first noticed the problem was the day before we were going on a touring holiday. I removed the half shaft and replaced the axel seal then drove 1800 miles on it.
 
Interesting :) :think:

I've done nearer to 6/7000miles since I first cleaned it all up some 2years back and as I've said the bearing feels good!?

Do you remember how your bearing felt after you'd removed the half shaft?

It's such a shame that one can't have a peek into the void between the bearing and the outer seal :roll: :)
 
This all looks rather familiar :think: :)

Regarding "sealed is sealed, right": when the transmission place pressed my bearing off there wasn't any grease in it, just oil - which might be OK as a bearing lube if it is constantly being topped up with fresh oil from the diff... but I wouldn't want to take a chance on this. The reason why I changed mine was because the gear oil was getting past the bearing and outer seal, which made me think that water could then get in that way too. In your case the inner seal is letting the gear oil out of the diff in the first place, and then the o-ring is letting it out. It has most likely gotten into the bearing, but you won't know if there is any damage unless you you take the bearing out (and damage it).

I think I got my bits from Roughtrax and I wasn't happy with their inner seal, o-ring and... can't remember but there was a 3rd item that wasn't exactly right, might have been a collar. So in the end I bought all the bits (inner & outer seals, bearing & retaining collars) again from Mr.T - this is not a job that I want to have to do again soon.
 
It felt fine when i took it off no grinding no untoward noise at all ,only when removed was the damage to the bearing obvious.
 
Mmmm...OK, that's all very useful information, thanks guys :D :thumbup:

Sounds like a complete refit with new components is the most sensible option really :)

I'm lucky with respect to Fiery as she is a toy first and a second vehicle second, so she can sit unused for as long as it takes to get sorted.

I've already discovered that the Milners 'O' ring is far to big and the fact that they do a complete rear wheel bearing kit including the bearing for less than £30 :o :o does not fill me with confidence :!: :!: :!: The same components from Roughtrax come in around £40 with them stating that the bearing is an Toyota one. All this said the same lot from the Main Stealer comes in around £90ish according to ToyoDiy so not so bad for genuine components.

It would be nice to get some information regarding removing all of the locking collars, ABS Rotor and bearing with photos if anyone has anything to add :)
 
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sae70 said:
It would be nice to get some information regarding removing all of the locking collars, ABS Rotor and bearing with photos if anyone has anything to add :)

I like to buy new tools! but when I looked into this I decided to have it done rather. The transmission shop used a very large press and the guy spent almost double the time he quoted me (fortunately he only charged me the quoted price).
 
i would replace the bearing, it would just fail when you really dont want it to in the future.
 
fridayman said:
sae70 said:
It would be nice to get some information regarding removing all of the locking collars, ABS Rotor and bearing with photos if anyone has anything to add :)

I like to buy new tools! but when I looked into this I decided to have it done rather. The transmission shop used a very large press and the guy spent almost double the time he quoted me (fortunately he only charged me the quoted price).
I'd love to be able to have a go myself. People have spoken of an SST being required to carry out the job, but I can only imagine that one would require a number of different length tubes, plates and drifts and a very large swear box :) :) :)

It would be interesting to see a photo of the SST :think:

AndyCook said:
i would replace the bearing, it would just fail when you really dont want it to in the future.
I think I'm heading this way in my head, just need to find someone to do it for me know that the half shaft is off :)
 
Ive just replaced a rear wheel bearing on mine Steven, will update my thread soon with pics. ;)

AFAIK the setup on my truck is very similar to yours. :think:

After pulling the shaft out of the axle it then took me exactly an hour to completely remove the old bearing from the shaft and clean up the shaft ready for a local garage to press the bearing on for me.

They only charged £5 to press it on for me. :clap:

I used milners and the Koyo bearings supplied in there kits, are exactly the same as the genuine toyota ones! :thumbup:

i cant comment on seals and O ring, because all my bits fitted perfectly, and the bits i fitted on the other side last year are still working fine, but then mine is a 70 and not a 90. :)
 
Steven, aren't all the SSTs shown in Toyo? sure I have seen them - or maybe it is in the FSM :think:

I think there could be an easy way if you didn't have a press shop nearby or the SST. But you'd also need to live near someone with a lathe :roll:

I'd make a clamping collar to go on the shaft and parts from a bearing puller to get the bearing off. I bet that's all the SST is.

Chris
 
Ben said:
Ive just replaced a rear wheel bearing on mine Steven, will update my thread soon with pics. ;)

AFAIK the setup on my truck is very similar to yours. :think:

After pulling the shaft out of the axle it then took me exactly an hour to completely remove the old bearing from the shaft and clean up the shaft ready for a local garage to press the bearing on for me.

They only charged £5 to press it on for me. :clap:

I used milners and the Koyo bearings supplied in there kits, are exactly the same as the genuine toyota ones! :thumbup:

i cant comment on seals and O ring, because all my bits fitted perfectly, and the bits i fitted on the other side last year are still working fine, but then mine is a 70 and not a 90. :)
Hi there Ben :) I'd like to see any photos you've taken of you doing the job and a short description of your sweat & toil :) Has yours got the ABS Rotor? I'm not so worried about the bearing as I believe that both Milners and Roughtrax are selling the same ones sold by Toyota. But the inner and outer seals, 'O' ring, bearing locking collar, ABS Rotor locking collar and new collar retaining clip I'd like to get from the main stealer, seems silly to not get the bearing from them while there :think: :)
 
Chris said:
Steven, aren't all the SSTs shown in Toyo? sure I have seen them - or maybe it is in the FSM :think:

I think there could be an easy way if you didn't have a press shop nearby or the SST. But you'd also need to live near someone with a lathe :roll:

I'd make a clamping collar to go on the shaft and parts from a bearing puller to get the bearing off. I bet that's all the SST is.

Chris
I did have a quick look through Google images, but nothing jumped out at me. I'll have a look through Toyo later on :)

I think that all you need is a plate that will bolt to the back of the rear axle bearing case with a tube welded to that suitable in diameter to accommodate the ABS rotor and then just a simple three legged puller attached at the top to push the axle through the tube sliding it out through all of the locking collars, ABS Rotor and the bearing. Once all this is clear then the bearing can be pressed clear of its housing out the other way.

Or there's what is called the ShadeTree method :p

shadetree.jpg


This is quite a good description of the process involved http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenan ... l_bearing/

I just have the extra locking collars and ABS Rotor :)

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And then once off all of the new needs to be pressed back on down the length of the saft, not such an issue in my mind so long as one has enough length below the press to accommodate the shaft :)
 
Steve, does the abs rotor come off as well? Never done this myself. but looking at that, you could have a split plate behind all of the gubbins that fits over the 4 mounting bolts with nuts on that you could use to jack the plate away and push the bearing off.

Chris
 
All that you see in the photo needs to come off up the length of the shaft, two press fit locking collars and the ABS Rotor + a retaining clip and a thrust/spacer washer that should both just pull off. Then the shaft has to be pushed out throught the bearing towards the outbound side of the hub and then the bearing needs to be pressed out of the housing towards the inbound side of the hub.

Then as said all back on!!! Pressing the bearing back into the housing is simple enough (if you have a press) and even pushing the shaft back through the bearing so long as you can keep the bearing in place while your doing this, but then you need to press the locking collars and ABS rotor back down the shaft. None of this is complex stuff, but there's what appears to me to be not just one but two or three bits of SST required and some mucking around :) Oh and a press with enough height to accommodate the length of the shaft :)
 
Chris said:
Steve, does the abs rotor come off as well? Never done this myself. but looking at that, you could have a split plate behind all of the gubbins that fits over the 4 mounting bolts with nuts on that you could use to jack the plate away and push the bearing off.

Chris
The lower locking collar is flush to the bearing so nothing will go behind it :|
 
My M8 Giles with the LR carries a spare rear wheel bearing when were out and about in case he needs one, reckons he can change it out in under 30min with no special tools :roll: :snooty:
 
Surely refitting is just a length of steel pipe and BFH applied correctly. Getting it apart is the technical challenge. Pop round mate and we'll do it after lunch.


Chris
 
Chris said:
Surely refitting is just a length of steel pipe and BFH applied correctly. Getting it apart is the technical challenge. Pop round mate and we'll do it after lunch.


Chris
I'd love to pop round m8 :D But school holidays, so I'll have three children with me 0ne 6 year old and two 3 year olds (one a girl!!!) that will not be as entertained as you and I by the challenge at hand :lol: :lol:
 
OK time for a laugh :!:

Called Toyota for price on parts;

Snap Ring £1.85
Retainer Collar NO1 £16.72
Retainer Collar NO2 £24.28
Inner Oil Seal £12.40
Outer Oil Seal £18.50
Washer Plate £4.54
O Ring £5.75
Bearing £44.72
Sub Total £128.76
VAT £25.75
GRAND TOTAL £154.51 :!: :!: :!: Wow I say :shock: :shock: :shifty:

He then says 'Oh sorry, I've made a mistake with the bearing! When I put it through it comes up at £155+VAT alone!!!'

'WTF' I say :naughty: :lol: :lol: :lol:

So, Milners :)

Snap Ring £1.20
Retainer Collar NO1 £??.??
Retainer Collar NO2 £12.00
Inner Oil Seal £3.50
Outer Oil Seal £5.25
Washer Plate £??.??
O Ring £1.00
Bearing £20.40
Sub Total £43.35
VAT £8.67
GRAND TOTAL £52.02 :o :o :o :!:

That's a huge difference :think: Only thing is that I've already established that the O ring they supply dosn't fit my truck :|

And RoughTrax :)

Snap Ring £1.70
Retainer Collar NO1 £??.??
Retainer Collar NO2 £11.00
Inner Oil Seal £3.00
Outer Oil Seal £5.05
Washer Plate £??.??
O Ring £1.00
Bearing £19.50
Sub Total £41.25
VAT £8.25
GRAND TOTAL £49.50 :o :o :o :!:

Similar to Milners, but again I seem to remember that someone had troubles with the seal sizes from Roughtrax :|

My heads a spinning now :? Wished I hadn't taken it apart and put up with the small oil leak :lol:

So Lets ReCap;

Toyota want about £130 for the same bits that I can get from Milners and Roughtrax but if the bearing price rise was correct then it'll be an extra £132, giving a total of £262 all inclusive :!: :!: :!:

Toyota £130 (possibly £262)
Milners £52 (some bits may be incorrect size)
Roughtrax £50 (some bits may be incorrect size)

Now my heads really spinning :lol: :lol: :lol:
 
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